Need a Fuel Tank Selector Valve

[cam.man67]

I've determined the most recent cause for my non-running C10 is the selector valve for the fuel tanks. It appears to be a one-wire valve (green)...does anybody know what he part number is for it and where I can find a replacement? Thanks!

[Mr.green]

If they brake, they are supposed to default to the passenger side tank.

I was able to find an AC Delco one on Amazon. Can't recall the part number at the moment.

[cam.man67]

I wish. Mine is stuck between the two...

Amazon, you say? Rockauto doesn;t carry anything that takes just the 1 wire, so that might be a good place to look. Thanks.

[Mr.green]

found it

Amazon.com: ACDelco 467513 Fuel Tank Selector...

[cam.man67]

THANK YOU! Ordered.

The guy at Pep Boys I called had no clue what I was even talking about.

[rajincajintj]

anybody know where i can find one of these?

amazon is out and i cant seem to locate a new unit.

[wilkin250r]

I cannot verify it actually works, but a google search for the part number "467513" also yeilds results for a "FV1T" valve that looks very similar.

Might be worth a shot? It doesn't look like it has return lines, though.

Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products FV1T Fuel...

**On a side note, I bet the newer style with the 6-port plug can be adapted to work. If somebody wants to do the legwork and track down a wiring diagram, I'll see if I can work something up.

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I cannot verify it actually works, but a google search for the part number "467513" also yeilds results for a "FV1T" valve that looks very similar.

Might be worth a shot?

Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products FV1T Fuel Selector Valve: Automotive

ive definitely been looking around at other items. i cannot use that one as it does not manage the fuel return lines. to the best of my knowledge, my cummins 12V needs a fuel return line to the tank.

[wilkin250r]

I found a wiring diagram, you could make the 6-wire selector valve work, but looking at the wiring diagram, it's possible you might need to run an additional power wire. With a little more information from somebody that HAS one, I could tell you for certain.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I cannot verify it actually works, but a google search for the part number "467513" also yeilds results for a "FV1T" valve that looks very similar.

Might be worth a shot? It doesn't look like it has return lines, though.

Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products FV1T Fuel Selector Valve: Automotive


**On a side note, I bet the newer style with the 6-port plug can be adapted to work. If somebody wants to do the legwork and track down a wiring diagram, I'll see if I can work something up.

Standard Motor Products FV1 is a 3 port selector valve without provision for the fuel return line.

AC Delco 467513 is a 6 port solenoid valve and it's discontinued. Your GM dealer may be able to rattle one loose from another dealer that has one collecting dust.
Standard Motor Products FV3 is a 6 port solenoid valve. I'm unsure about its' status... It may be discontinued as well.

The tank and gauge harness is a sub-harness that can be replaced. There's a board member that has been working on producing the common motorized dual tank sub harnesses. His handle is gmachinz.

The easiest to read wiring diagram for the 1981-1991 motorized valve system can be found in the 1989 RV series schematics for the diesel trucks with dual tanks.
BTW Get the ON-ON AC Delco D7089C switch for the 87-91 TBI trucks not the Momentary-Off-Momentary switch with "Depress Fully" on the front, originally found on the 81-86 trucks.

[old Rusty C10]

I bought one of these in advanced auto pats a couple years back auto zone has em too don't have the part number

[Titomars]

I just went through the hunt for the 467513 valve 6 months ago. Every lead I came up was discontinued. I did not want to rewire the truck to the later motorized version. So what I did is head to the wrecking yard and I pulled 3 of the best looking 467513's I could find. tested them at home. All of them work fine. So I cleaned them up and choose the best looking one and swapped it out with my failing valve, problem solved and now I have 2 extras for the future.
By the way my original had the same problem stuck in the middle and sucking from both tanks.

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by Titomars

I just went through the hunt for the 467513 valve 6 months ago. Every lead I came up was discontinued. I did not want to rewire the truck to the later motorized version. So what I did is head to the wrecking yard and I pulled 3 of the best looking 467513's I could find. tested them at home. All of them work fine. So I cleaned them up and choose the best looking one and swapped it out with my failing valve, problem solved and now I have 2 extras for the future.
By the way my original had the same problem stuck in the middle and sucking from both tanks.

You wouldn't happen to want to ship one of those, would ya?

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Standard Motor Products FV1 is a 3 port selector valve without provision for the fuel return line.

AC Delco 467513 is a 6 port solenoid valve and it's discontinued. Your GM dealer may be able to rattle one loose from another dealer that has one collecting dust.
Standard Motor Products FV3 is a 6 port solenoid valve. I'm unsure about its' status... It may be discontinued as well.

The tank and gauge harness is a sub-harness that can be replaced. There's a board member that has been working on producing the common motorized dual tank sub harnesses. His handle is gmachinz.

The easiest to read wiring diagram for the 1981-1991 motorized valve system can be found in the 1989 RV series schematics for the diesel trucks with dual tanks.
BTW Get the ON-ON AC Delco D7089C switch for the 87-91 TBI trucks not the Momentary-Off-Momentary switch with "Depress Fully" on the front, originally found on the 81-86 trucks.

That is very valuable info hatzie. If I go that route, I will need that. Thanks for your help.

[rajincajintj]

poking around ebay... looks like the wiring harness is available for the newer model fuel selector.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Se...f0d0eb&vxp=mtr

id rather support a board member if he is making them

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by rajincajintj

poking around ebay... looks like the wiring harness is available for the newer model fuel selector.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Tank-Se...f0d0eb&vxp=mtr

id rather support a board member if he is making them

That's not a harness. It's just the Delphi 12015799 Female 6-Contact Tower Half Body Weather Pack Connector terminated as a service pigtail. You can buy that at your local auto parts vendors.
You still have to attach the sender wires and wire up the correct dash switch.

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by hatzie

That's not a harness. It's just the Delphi 12015799 Female 6-Contact Tower Half Body Weather Pack Connector terminated as a service pigtail. You can buy that at your local auto parts vendors.
You still have to attach the sender wires and wire up the correct dash switch.

oh ****.

so when you said "harness" you meant he was making an actual complete harness. imagine that...

that would be helpful. i have already sent him a PM.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I found a wiring diagram, you could make the 6-wire selector valve work, but looking at the wiring diagram, it's possible you might need to run an additional power wire. With a little more information from somebody that HAS one, I could tell you for certain.

I put dual tanks on my 78 and used the motorized valve. It fits the existing mechanical holes in the frame, and the existing fuel and vent lines. It will switch the sender wire if you want; I ran both sender wires to the dash and have a gauge on each, one in the clock position and one under the tach.

To power it you need two wires back to the valve from a switch that reverses power and ground wires. Power I took from the IGN position in the fuse block, ground I took from the ground buss bar located at the parking brake pedal bracket under the dash. I mounted the switch -- which came with the valve -- in a pre-existing hole in the bottom lip of the dash to the right of the steering wheel.

You can see the switch in this shot, currently set to RHS tank.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

I put dual tanks on my 78 and used the motorized valve. It fits the existing mechanical holes in the frame, and the existing fuel and vent lines. It will switch the sender wire if you want; I ran both sender wires to the dash and have a gauge on each, one in the clock position and one under the tach.

To power it you need two wires back to the valve from a switch that reverses power and ground wires. Power I took from the IGN position in the fuse block, ground I took from the ground buss bar located at the parking brake pedal bracket under the dash. I mounted the switch -- which came with the valve -- in a pre-existing hole in the bottom lip of the dash to the right of the steering wheel.

You can see the switch in this shot, currently set to RHS tank.

Toggle switches are a heckuva lot more reliable than the plastic rocker switches and you can make the bat point to the tank being selected.
Cole Hersee makes a Polarity Reversing toggle switch that can use the same connector housing as the 73-80 GM rocker... but not the wiring.
Cole Hersee 55018-01 Polarity Reversing ON-ON toggle switch with blade disconnects

[wilkin250r]

I'd like to measure the resistance and power consumption on the FV1 valve. I'd be willing to bet dollars to donuts the system can power 2 in parallel. If a proper 1-wire, 6-port valve could not be found, this would probably be the most hassle-free alternative. No extra wires, no changing switches, the only additional cost would be an additional $30 for a second valve, and maybe new sections of hose but you were probably planning on doing that anyways.

[rajincajintj]

Originally Posted by wilkin250r

I'd like to measure the resistance and power consumption on the FV1 valve. I'd be willing to bet dollars to donuts the system can power 2 in parallel. If a proper 1-wire, 6-port valve could not be found, this would probably be the most hassle-free alternative. No extra wires, no changing switches, the only additional cost would be an additional $30 for a second valve, and maybe new sections of hose but you were probably planning on doing that anyways.

oooooooooooo


that might be the way to go. until one of them ****s the bed. hopefully its not the return. id like to know when it gets bad.

i still like it.

update: i called around to the dealerships in my town and no one had it. i was refered to a dealership in texas that had one showing in stock, but they did not have one. they also said that system had not been updated in a decade.

the hunt continues.

[wilkin250r]

The absolute worst-case scenario is if the return-line valve goes bad but the feed-line valve is still working, you dump your return-line fuel into the opposite tank. No problem if that tank is empty, but it could become a problem if that tank is full.

I would imagine the VAST majority of malfuctioning valves get stuck in the default position, not in the activated position. So I would make a habit of making the default tank your "main" tank, and drain it first. That way, on the small 0.001% chance you ever have a malfunctioning return-line valve, it will be while your second tank is full, and your main tank is empty, and your return line is dumping into your empty main tank.

[rajincajintj]

can i ask a stupid question....

how bad would a couple t fittings be? what are my issues with tieing the 2 tanks' lines together? i assume that they would draw and return from both tanks and i would get a huge range increase while i hunt for the right valve.

only issues i see are the returns and at low levels, i think it would pull air out of the lower tank before it would pull fuel out of the fuller tank, right? so i would have to fill up as soon as one got too low, right? i would also have to fill the tanks at almost the exact same time, every time, right?

im not sure its worth the hassle, but i'm just throwing out ideas

[hatzie]

I'd give the pair of FV-1 valves a shot.

I drew up a schematic several years ago for installing the motorized valve with a minimum disruption to the original wiring.
It uses a pair of 5 terminal Mini ISO relays to convert the un-molested single wire setup to a motorized valve 2 wire system without modifying the dash switch or in-cab harness.
It's not a beginner wiring project.
You'd need to properly wire up 2 relay sockets and two tower terminals on the 6 position Delphi Weatherpack connector.
I'd recommend mounting relays on the firewall with the terminals down. The reason to mount relays with the terminals pointing toward the ground is... they fill with water in any other position and then stop working.
The main power connection should be to t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶i̶r̶e̶w̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶j̶u̶n̶c̶t̶i̶o̶n̶ ̶s̶t̶u̶d̶ an ignition switched power source. It should include a 7amp Fuse.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by rajincajintj

You wouldn't happen to want to ship one of those, would ya?

I was thinking about working a deal with you. But I knew I had to hit my local wrecker this last weekend. So I checked the truck line for any of the old 467513's. The few trucks in the right age range had them all removed. I really think I had better hold on to mine. I have no plans to ever sell my truck and that 454 does not get very far on 16 gals. alone. Hatzie's idea is really the perfect answer for us solenoid valve owners. I highly recommend giving that a go.