59 Apache 36, good deal or not?

[bcutt]

Hey Guys,

I have come across a very nice all original 59 Apache 36 with about 100K original miles. It has oringial paint with great patina, very little rust at the bottom of one door. Solid other than that. The interior is all original and hasn't been butchered in any way. It has the original 235 6 cyl that runs like a charm with a granny low 4spd, everything works and it rides great. Doesnt even leak any oil. I have got the guy to agree on $7500 but I am not too familiar with these trucks (currently have a 72 C10 SWB) so I wanted to get your opinions. My plans would be to just clean it and drive it, maybe lower it a little bit someday. What do you guys think, is it worth $7500? I just feel like for an original, unmolested driver the time to buy it is when you see it.

Brandon

[58CameoAZ]

The price to me just seams High! I would bet the driver side hinge pocket is rusted from just the looks of the rust in the lower fender area.
It really all depends on what your happy with,and what you want to spend on it to make you happy, it is a clean unmolested truck and a nice truck, but in my neck of the woods i think you could get it for a cheaper price. Just saying
Good luck and wish you the best on getting it!
Allen

[bcutt]

Thanks Allen. I actually think the drivers side hinge pocket was repaired at one time. The repair looked solid and I could tell they had hit it with some primer after the work was completed. My main concern is the price as well. I thought $7500 seemed a little high but them again I dont see alot of old rust free original trucks here in GA.

[Ratpin]

I'd pay about half the asking price and no more

[_Ogre]

some areas of the country that would be a good deal. left coast and dry states don't understand rust.
a lot depend on the condition: cab corners, rockers, eye brows and bed all look good from the pics.
how the floor and the rest of the body? i see minor rust on the back of the front fenders.

little rust means little repair

read some of the 55-59 builds and you'll see what's involved in fixing rust
the good thing is every panel is reproduced for these trucks except the fleetside bed

3800 will be a little harder to get brake and suspension parts for, but the body is the same as 3100
if it runs and drives well and you want it; buy it.

[bcutt]

The floors and the rest of the body is solid. Just a little rust on the lower foor corners but I would just leave as is because I would not want to disturb the patina. I knew the west coast guys would think the price was a little high but in these parts I figured prices would be a little higher for a solid truck. This truck is an original TX truck.

[bcutt]

http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/4445936780.html

Here is a link to his CL add. You can see some more pics here.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

good thing is every panel is reproduced for these trucks except the stepside bed

Think you met FLEETSIDE bed, stepsides are reproduced.

[wsurf4me]

Seems high but as others have said at the end of the day it's how much it's worth to you.

[_Ogre]

[VTX-Black]

I'd say that if it is solid and saves you three years of your life fabricating and welding, then it is a good deal... But if there is three years of heart ache hiding, then not such a good deal

But that opinion is based more on what my time is worth rather than what the truck might be worth...

[bcutt]

Thanks Wayne..It's a solid truck and I would leave it be and drive it. I have 3 years of rust repair in my 72 C10 so I know what you mean by what my time is worth...

Brandon

[roger55]

I'd say no more than $4,500.

If you want to see how much is involved fixing rust, take a look at my build thread. I think mine was in about the same condition when I bought it back in 2011.

[bcutt]

I have no problem fixing rust, in fact I enjoy it. You can see from the pictures in my profile album. I'm just looking for an all original patina'd driver and I have always liked these Apache pickups. Just not too sure on the going price for these year trucks as I am really only familiar with the 67-72's. If it was a SWB I think I would have jumped on it. From what you guys have said I think I will probably pass on this one and see what else comes up. Thanks everyone.

Brandon

[Wrenchbender Ret]

The old car price "guide" shows a #3 condition at $6240. #4 at $3040. It looks like a good #4 but not a #3. The 3/4 ton & 6 cyl. knock it down.

[Highsider]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

The old car price "guide" shows a #3 condition at $6240. #4 at $3040. It looks like a good #4 but not a #3. The 3/4 ton & 6 cyl. knock it down.

Looks like a hassle to sign up for it. Is it cool?
Do they send a bill?
Do you get a bunch of advertising?

Thx.

[mr48chev]

I'd have to agree with wrenchbender Ret. You would be pushing it pretty hard to get 4K out of it here as a long bed six cylinder 3/4 ton all of which Knock the value down as compared to a similar short bed V8 half ton.

Your "patina" adds absolutely no value for me. It's just freaking worn out old paint and that is all it will ever be no matter what cute title you put on it. The good thing about it is that the seller didn't slap a hundred dollar back yard paint job on it trying to increase the value and what you see is what you get.

I may be off on my pricing a bit though as this one is 4800 asking price and it isn't near as nice as the one you are looking at. http://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/4404222532.html It's got "patina" though.

[paulspickupparts]

Truck does not look bad but the photos do not show a lot of critical areas. One area is above the windshield . With these trucks 55 years old years of heat/cool/condensation is causing rust above the windshield on the interior of the cab. If you see one orange bubble in that area it has started. Also whats under the floor mat. The other areas are best seen with a creeper or a big sheet of cardboard looking up. I once said you can learn more changing oil the first time after buying a truck than walking around a truck 20 times before buying a truck.

Something else to think about is that at some point in time you will sell it. You think you might not but you will. A short fleet will sell in a hearbeat. A long fleet will still sell but harder. A 3/4 ton even harder.

You will add money to the $7500 purchase price. Write down anything you want to do to it in terms of dollars. Be honest and find out the total . Think about tires , rims exhaust, brakes, floor mat , interior , and anything else you can think of. It may not be that hard to approach 10K before you are done. In that case you may want to look around. For 10K you have more choices. If this were a short half I would be a little more optimistic. If this were a short wide big back window much more optimistic. A little advice would be look at 10 trucks and buy one.

Several years back I bought a 72 SWB 6 cylinder runner for $600. How could I go wrong? I changed the front clip to a 68 using used parts. I then lowered it and added some wheels and tires. Last check I have somewhere between $2500 and $3000 in it. Was getting ready to build that 406 and TH 350 to replace the 6 3 speed. Once I found out my motor was going to cost about $3500, tranny $650 , headers, exhaust, I put the brakes on the project. I figured I would have about 8-10K in a truck with rusty rockers and rust in the bed, multicolored . There was a thread on here several years ago on cost and time to do a truck. Was very interesting. Good luck.

[bcutt]

I appreciate all the replies guys. I am glad I asked here before pulling the trigger on a whim.. I felt like the price was a little high for a long bed 3/4 ton and I am glad I went with my gut and asked you guys and passed on the deal. Now I am on the hunt for a SWB 1/2 if anybody knows where to find a nice one! Thanks again everyone.

Brandon

[dicer]

No matter how much you "enjoy" fixing rust holes, its still a huge mess to do correctly.
I agree that there is very likely a can of worms in hiding. If you have gone over it with a fine tooth comb and there are absolutely no rust outs, in all the normal areas, and everything else is bone stock, then yeah maybe that price works. But first off the seat cover doesn't look stock to me, and how many items under the hood have been goofed up? If that's a dent in the driver front fender, that detracts some too. If it was an almost perfect body and just the paint fade etc. I'd likely keep the patina and clear coat it, for rust protection. If you do get it and drive it, what about protecting all the hidden areas from rusting? As you drive it, it will be slowly rotting out from every rain storm you encounter.
There is zero rust protection between the inner and outer cab panels, the doors are rusting from the inside out. All the non sealed areas around the front and bottom of the cab and bottom rear of the cab are also rusting. If those areas aren't addressed at some point it will be a rust bucket in a few years. You need some card board and lay under it and check things out real good. When you find some bad areas just tell the guy you will be happy to pay that price after those areas are fixed correctly. The very first thing to do is get rid of or modify that rear bumper, they ruin those Fleet side panels. So studying those pics again, looks like lots of body damage, and rust outs in front fenders. And after rereading stuff I thought of just erasing what I said here but left it for example. Its hiding a lot of problems, and not worth the price. I agree with most all the other posts here.

[mr48chev]

One thing I have discovered in all phases of life: never upon never "selikttle" for something that is "almost" like findnt. If you want a big window short box fleetside find the one with the best body and sheet metal you can reasonably afford and build your truck from that.

Don't pay extra for extras you don't want unless you have a ready market for them. I'm not a patina fan but tiired original paint means you can see what is really there body wise and see that it hasn't had shaky body work or has the quick and nasty primer or paint job to try and bump the price up.
New wheels,tires or shiny engine doodads that don't fit your build plan but are obviously there to enhance the selling price are another thing to either back away from or use as a negotiating piece. I don't think that asking if someone will drop the price on a truck the value of the rims and tires that are on it if you let them keep the rims and tires is out of line.