C- Notch Istall

[legotech7]

I am underway in my C-notch install, and am having a bit of trouble, maybe some can steer me in right direction. I am using a CPP, notch kit and am trying to remove some of the rivets at certain points.In particular where the coil mount to on the underside. This is where you mount the c-notch using two bolts. But for the hell of me I can't get the rivets to pop out. I used a cut off wheel to get the heads off than with an air hammer, tried to punch them out! NO DEAL... They just wont pop out. Anyone have any Ideas as how I can get these damn things out? Will I need to drill them out? That might add time to this project... What to do folks.... Any help would be much appreciated...

Thank you

Here is the location I'm talking about....Bottom pic, too blurry..sorry.....

[sduckworth13]

Drill them out, it might be a pain. I had my bed off when I did mine, and it was still a pain.

[legotech7]

Wow I knew that was coming...Yes I know.. there a pain... My bed is off also. I guess I don't have any other choice but to drill them out. I soaked them with BP blaster and will let them sit over night and try again with the air punch, maybe I'll get lucky.. Any pics of your set up?

Thanks sduckworth13

[sduckworth13]

I have some pictures in my build thread of the c-notch, but no detailed pictures.

[sduckworth13]

Here is one.

[sduckworth13]

I still have a ton of work to do. I'm going to be purchasing the CPP big brake kit sometime in the near future. Then I'll get everything painted ? Or powdercoated ?

[legotech7]

I was looking thru some of your build thread. Looks like a great job your doing......

[sduckworth13]

Originally Posted by legotech7

I was looking thru some of your build thread. Looks like a great job your doing......

Thank you.

[MattPSU]

If the rivet is still hot from having the head cut off, it'll be expanded. I used an ice cube to cool it down and shrink it some before hitting it with a bfh/punch or the air hammer. Some PB blaster helps too. If that doesn't work, get out the drill. Good luck! - Matt

[legotech7]

Thank you Matt. I think I'm relegated to drilling them out... We'll see.........

[CC69Rat]

They are a pain to get out. A 3lb sledge and a blunt point punch will do it but man you have to beat the heck out of it.

[legotech7]

Thanks CC69Rat, I tried it with the punch and a 5lb der, but it got difficult quick when your trying to do it lying on your back hitting it from under the frame. Like I mentioned before,soaked it with PB blaster and going to try it again with the air hammer punchy thingy. And when all is exhausted, I guess I'll have to start drilling. Oh joy.....

Thanks again.......

[knomadd]

I had to drill 7 out of the 8 of my upper ball joint rivets when I did my front suspension rebuild. They're smaller rivets than what you're working on, so I can only imagine how difficult it would be to drive them out with a punch. I think you'll be drilling them out. I'd start with an 1/8" bit, then go larger. You can drive it out after a while.

Good luck!

[legotech7]

Well, after grinding and drilling and cutting and fitting, I finally got the driver side notch in. what an experience... And I get to do it all again for the passenger side, But for now I'm calling it a day. After the notches, the 5 lug conversion is next. I ordered from summit, the shipping was free, but they sent me the wrong kit. I had to return it prepaid shipping by summit, they where great about it. I just have to wait a little longer, until they come in. FYI If you order the 6 to 5 lug conversion from summit, they only show this part number CLP-6569RACK for a variety of years and not the part number for my year witch is 1970. That part number was CLP-70RACK, witch is no where on their site. the difference between the two is the 6569 # axle lengths are 30'' and the 70# are 30 and 3/4''. Mine was the latter. The first shipment was the shorter length. Anyway, will post some more as I go along.. Thanks everyone for all you help..

Here's what I accomplished in two days.......Some more cleaning on the frame and I'll be good to go......

[lolife99]

All the work to install the c-notch will be worth it.
Now you have the knowledge to help others that ask.
That's why this place is great.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by knomadd

I had to drill 7 out of the 8 of my upper ball joint rivets when I did my front suspension rebuild. They're smaller rivets than what you're working on, so I can only imagine how difficult it would be to drive them out with a punch. I think you'll be drilling them out. I'd start with an 1/8" bit, then go larger. You can drive it out after a while.

Good luck!

Duane, if ever faced with that again, try this technique.

Grind the rivet heads off. Then take a large hammer and large chisel and hit in the seam between the ball joint and the control arm. The chisel will wedge the ball joint up and off of the rivet bodies and you can remove it. Now, you're left with four rivet bodies sticking up out of the control arm. Just grind them flat and all it takes is a little tap with a punch and the remainder will fall right out.

I've changed a pile of upper ball joints over the years and never drilled a single rivet on any of them. Once you're used to the technique I mentioned above, it takes about 10 minutes total, start to finish, to change an upper ball joint. Maybe 15 if the old cotter key fights you coming out.