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Old 05-20-2014, 05:45 PM   #1
Franks 72
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Suburban Rotisserie question

Just getting started on our 72 Suburban body.I am new to bodywork and have been reading about bracing the body before removing any body pieces. How strong is the body? What (if anything) can I remove with the truck on the Rotisserie without risk of distortion?
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:46 PM   #2
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

I have restored a number of cars and trucks. My best advice would be not to re move the body from the frame until your finished with any panel replacement.
The procedure I have always used is to check that the frame is straight, dissemble as much as you can leaving body panels in place, do all the rust repair and body mods, then put it on the rotisserie. If your door hinges are loose rebuild or replace them before you replace any panels around them. This is the only way to insure everything fits once it's sitting back on the frame.
If you have already removed it from the frame, make sure the frame is straight, buy a new set of body mounts and place the body back on the frame.
Or you can build a jig that supports the body at the mounts. It's a lot of work for one restoration.
If you don't support the body at its mounting points correctly and you start replacing panels it will be very difficult to get everything lined up again.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:53 PM   #3
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Before I took it off of the frame. Sitting in the frame machine.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:06 PM   #4
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

The body's move a lot on the rotisserie. When I replaced the wood floor in the back I tried to put the new piece back in with the rotisserie turned on its side. It had flexed so much I thought I had cut the plywood wrong because it didn't fit. I had to turn the vehicle upside down just to put the panel in and line up all the holes.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:23 PM   #5
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobuffalo View Post
I have restored a number of cars and trucks. My best advice would be not to re move the body from the frame until your finished with any panel replacement.

Or you can build a jig that supports the body at the mounts. It's a lot of work for one restoration.
If you don't support the body at its mounting points correctly and you start replacing panels it will be very difficult to get everything lined up again.
Nuts. I wanted to put my burb body on the rotisserie so I could do panel replacement! Mine will need some work in the rockers, rear lower quarters and the wheel arch.

Paul
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:16 PM   #6
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

The rockers are a major piece of the structural integrity without the frame.
I have seen vehicles that had rust/dent repair done on a rotisserie. A lot of problems were encountered once it was back on the frame and you tried to line up the doors and fenders.
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Old 05-21-2014, 01:20 PM   #7
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

After all of the metal work.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:18 PM   #8
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Great pictures Gobuffalo. Is there a reason you left the windshield in? Can you post a picture of where the rotisserie mounts onto the body?

Man I can't wait to get to this stage. Waited 17 years to buy another sub and waited 6 months to make room at my house. All I've done so far is pull the bumper off!

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Old 05-21-2014, 03:29 PM   #9
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Window was broken. I just never took it out.
The front is at the mounting holes to the frame.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:34 PM   #10
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

The rear is at the rear most body to frame mount. This rear panel is just bolted in to the body. I also welded it because the bolts are small.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:37 PM   #11
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Where I'm at today.
I have a regular job and all.
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Old 05-21-2014, 03:41 PM   #12
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Frame
Can't finish the exhaust till the body is on.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:28 PM   #13
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

The quarter panels on these things are pretty flimsy due to their massive size. Much care must be taken in the transition from rotisserie back to the frame if you are painting in on the rotisserie. The drivers side quarter especially will flex in front of the L/R wheel opening right on the "C" Pillar brace. I luckily placed the body back on the frame after it was primed so when it made a buckle in that area from flexing, I was able to fix it before paint. That would have been a real bummer to find later!
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:34 PM   #14
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

At least paint the roof while on the rotisserie.
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Old 05-21-2014, 07:01 PM   #15
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Great pics thanks! The frame looks really good.

I was thinking that I'd paint the body on the rotisserie then block it up on a wide wood cradle drive the frame underneath then lower it slowly with a set of jacks. All theory though since that is years away.

It is kind of a pain how regular jobs mess with what we really want to do.

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Old 05-21-2014, 07:02 PM   #16
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Just fixing some small dents in the roof where it use to have a rack. I'll place it put it back on the frame to do the final blocking before final paint.
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Old 05-21-2014, 09:07 PM   #17
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gobuffalo View Post
Just fixing some small dents in the roof where it use to have a rack. I'll place it put it back on the frame to do the final blocking before final paint.
That is probably the best way to go. Maybe I can paint the cowl and jambs before putting it on the frame. It would be great to paint the top on the rotisserie though.

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Old 05-22-2014, 05:54 AM   #18
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Thanks for the great advice ! I will finish cleaning the underbody and get it back on the frame prior to panel /sill repair. Glad I asked !
It sure is tempting to work on it when its on the rotissarie !

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Old 05-22-2014, 11:02 PM   #19
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Great advice guys! Nice work Gobuffalo.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:20 PM   #20
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Dang it Gobuffalo.

I wish I knew about you when I lived in Skyforest. My suburban needs some love. Thanks for the info about replacing panels before removing the body. I was about to pull the body to make it easier to fix my rusty spots. I want to coat the bottom of the truck with something like line-x to stop further rust and protect from Utah salted roads in the winter.

Your work looks great!

Chris
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:29 PM   #21
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Suburban Rotisserie question

There is a large frame re-enforcement structure which is at the transition of metal floor to plywood.I have rust in behind it. If I support the frame all along can this be removed to facilitate rust removal? Thanks again for your help!
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:10 AM   #22
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

A lot of the 2 part spray in bed liners will stain. I have had name brand liner sprayed on the bottom of other 4x4s. After getting muddy they I could never get them all the way back to black no matter how hard I tried. When I asked the guy that sprayed it what was wrong, he said their porous and to prevent stains you should paint over the liner to seal it up.

I looked around for a non porous bed liner and I found a product called UPOL Raptor. It comes in black or a white that you add color to. The gun to spray it is $10.00 and it comes out a little shiny. I did the bottom of the Suburban in the same color green as the rest of the paint per the code in the glove box.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:21 AM   #23
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

I don't see any jacks on the rotisserie. How the heck do you turn that heavy body? Thanks for replys
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:31 AM   #24
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

Part of the set up process is finding the balance point. The way this mounted it takes a good pull to get it started moving then it moves fairly easy. Wherever you stop it stays there but you have to lock it down to work on it.
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Old 07-04-2014, 04:24 PM   #25
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Re: Suburban Rotisserie question

I use two farm "pin" jacks lifting on the large diagonal part of the rotisarie. Move jacks from front to back and continue back and forth (8" at a time). It is a bit of a long process but works. Once the C of G is found I put a small tack weld on either side of all adjusting pieces just in case one of the locking bolts slips.
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