What to look for when purchasing?

[JohnKimble]

Hello,

I'm new to the forums and have been looking into purchasing an old K10 for a while now. More specifically I've been eyeing a couple '87 Silverado's (V10 technically). I've heard good things about the TBI 350 but was curious as to what to look for specifically when purchasing one of these trucks.

My state has strict smog regulations, so what original emissions equipment do I need to verify the truck still has?

Specific areas susceptible to rust? I've read the lower door jams can be an issue, any other areas to take note of?

How can I visually verify the block is a 350 and not a 305, or something else?

Any other tips for purchase are welcome.

Thank you.

[andrewmp6]

Rust you look it in the rockers and cab corners.And look for frame cracks around the steering box its a common problem but can be fixed.

[JohnKimble]

Thank you. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[rich weyand]

Look at the hoses and belts for crazing and cracking. They are a hint to the overall maintenance level.

Check the oil by pulling the dipstick and wiping it on a paper towel. Black with soot means it's running way rich some of the time. If it runs OK, but still has the black soot in the oil, it probably means the Qjet has to be rebuilt because it is leaking gas at idle through the casting plugs on the bottom of the carb. [edit] Oops, you said 87 TBI. Soot in the oil then will mean the O2 sensor is shot and the computer is running it rich to keep the fire lit: you can run way rich and still run, way lean and the fire goes out.

Look at the floor pans underneath to check for rust-through. Driver's side should be the worst, because of tracking in snow and water.

Look underneath the dash and see if the factory wiring harness looks pretty intact or if there have been a lot of splices and such. If there are, look at how well they are done. If the wiring has been hacked, which is pretty common, it may mean a lot of electrical gremlins popping up in the future.

Take a strong magnet and a shop rag. You can wrap the magnet in the shop rag and check the rear fenders for bondo right behind the rear wheels and immediately above the fender cutouts (above the wheels). Anywhere there is bondo, the magnet will lose grip on the fender. These are the early rust-out spots, and if it has been bondoed, you should have been told about it. What else haven't you been told?

Check the brake pedal firmness by just holding the brake pedal down for a couple minutes while the engine is running. Even in Park is OK. Does the brake pedal stay in the same place, or does it slowly sink? Slowly sinking means the master and/or slave cylinders need replacing because the rubber components are shot, probably age-hardened.

Of course, how healthy the engine sounds is important. Valve clatter can mean it has worn out of adjustment, which could mean it needs lifters. How the exhaust smells can tell you a lot. Does it smell like burning oil? Does it smell sweet? (antifreeze leaking into the cylinders).

[JohnKimble]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Look at the hoses and belts for crazing and cracking. They are a hint to the overall maintenance level.

Check the oil by pulling the dipstick and wiping it on a paper towel. Black with soot means it's running way rich some of the time. If it runs OK, but still has the black soot in the oil, it probably means the Qjet has to be rebuilt because it is leaking gas at idle through the casting plugs on the bottom of the carb. [edit] Oops, you said 87 TBI. Soot in the oil then will mean the O2 sensor is shot and the computer is running it rich to keep the fire lit: you can run way rich and still run, way lean and the fire goes out.

Look at the floor pans underneath to check for rust-through. Driver's side should be the worst, because of tracking in snow and water.

Look underneath the dash and see if the factory wiring harness looks pretty intact or if there have been a lot of splices and such. If there are, look at how well they are done. If the wiring has been hacked, which is pretty common, it may mean a lot of electrical gremlins popping up in the future.

Take a strong magnet and a shop rag. You can wrap the magnet in the shop rag and check the rear fenders for bondo right behind the rear wheels and immediately above the fender cutouts (above the wheels). Anywhere there is bondo, the magnet will lose grip on the fender. These are the early rust-out spots, and if it has been bondoed, you should have been told about it. What else haven't you been told?

Check the brake pedal firmness by just holding the brake pedal down for a couple minutes while the engine is running. Even in Park is OK. Does the brake pedal stay in the same place, or does it slowly sink? Slowly sinking means the master and/or slave cylinders need replacing because the rubber components are shot, probably age-hardened.

Of course, how healthy the engine sounds is important. Valve clatter can mean it has worn out of adjustment, which could mean it needs lifters. How the exhaust smells can tell you a lot. Does it smell like burning oil? Does it smell sweet? (antifreeze leaking into the cylinders).

Thank you! This is a great checklist.

[willett]

Rust, rust, rust


You can swap and source engines, trannys, and driveline parts easily enough, but if the body is shot your in for a headache. These trucks can be very deceiving. Look very closely for any paint bubbling on the rockers and cab corners. Check the floor around the front cab supports. Also have a look in and around the rear wheel wells. If you see lots of bubbles in any of these spots it's a sign that there is probably lots more hidden rust throughout.

I thought my truck was clean when I bought it until I drove it on dirt roads for a summer and it disintegrated. A can and box swap later and I'm almost back to square 1

[JohnKimble]

Originally Posted by willett

Rust, rust, rust


You can swap and source engines, trannys, and driveline parts easily enough, but if the body is shot your in for a headache. These trucks can be very deceiving. Look very closely for any paint bubbling on the rockers and cab corners. Check the floor around the front cab supports. Also have a look in and around the rear wheel wells. If you see lots of bubbles in any of these spots it's a sign that there is probably lots more hidden rust throughout.

I thought my truck was clean when I bought it until I drove it on dirt roads for a summer and it disintegrated. A can and box swap later and I'm almost back to square 1

I will definitely take a close look at the body of this truck.

What about the engine though? I agree the engine/tranny and drive line can be swapped easily enough...but if I'm paying for a truck with the assumption it has a 350...I want it to have a 350. How can I visually verify it's a stock '87 350 like the seller claims, and not a 305 or something different.

[willett]

I think distinguishing between a 350 and a 305 is tricky, not my area of expertise though. Check stroke length on the 2, maybe you can pull a plug and drop a pencil down there. It's probably somewhat unlikely that somebody would downgrade anyways.

[rich weyand]

If the eighth digit of the VIN is an "H" it was originally a 5.0 liter (305), if the eighth digit of the VIN is "K" or "M", it was originally a 5.7 liter (350).

http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech.../1987truck.pdf

As for telling what is in it now, there are numbers on the block, but all of them are a bugger to get at when the engine is in the vehicle. One you may be able to get is on the front of the deck of the passenger side cylinder bank. The right and left banks of the engine are offset from each other: the passenger side cylinders are about an inch behind the driver side cylinders, so the rods aren't aligned with each other. The water pump mounts to the front of the engine, and its mating surfaces to the front of the engine are in the same plane. So there is a section of the engine on the passenger side that sticks out an inch where the water pump mounts. The top surface of that boss, which is at a 45 degree angle, has some numbers stamped in it. On an old engine, that will be smothered in dirt, and it can be underneath the alternator or AC or whatever. You can usually see this ledge if you follow the passenger side of the water pump back to where it mounts to the block. You might be able to wipe that ledge off and get your smartphone in there to take a picture of that ledge and get some numbers off it.

There is a similar ledge on the diagonally opposite side of the engine, behind the driver side head where the bell housing mates up. You might be able to get a shot of that with the smartphone camera by just holding the camera over the rear end of the driver side valve cover pointing down. That will give the casting number.

Here are those two locations on a naked block.

[JohnKimble]

Thanks Rich. Lot's of helpful tips in this thread that I'll be using.

[50seven]

Most half tons 81 and newer are 305 with either a TH350C or a 700R4 from what I have seen. I think California pickups still came with a 350 engine in the half ton during the eighties? Your search may be harder than you think for a half ton 350 stocker?

[rich weyand]

The engine may be tired anyway, no matter what it is, and due for replacement. I think the body condition and interior condition may be more to the point.

As for engine replacement, I can tell you what to get for a Gen I 350 with 290 hp/415 lb ft for $2000, or go big and get a 350 with 360 hp/425 lbft for $3200. That's parts, but the swap isn't that hard if you can rent a hoist and have someone to help you.

[Chevy3+3]

You mentioned you live in a smog restriction state. Make sure if you need to have it inspected it still has the smog pump on it and its hooked up. If the truck was equipped with it (should say on radiator support sticker) then you are still required to have it in your state I beleive

[rich weyand]

According to this, 1976 and newer vehicles must pass emissions testing in California. Presumably that is to the more severe California standards, not federal standards.

http://www.hagerty.com/uploadedFiles...sions-laws.pdf

So why not buy a 1973-1975, and not have to meet emissions at all?