Watts link setup

[Bagged1972]

I was wondering if anyone knows a website or build thread that would explain the setup on a watts link? I'm trying to do my research on it before my install any help would be appreciated.

[Bagged1972]

Bump

[tinydb84]

I don't think you need to bump the thread if it is at the top lol. Anyway here is what a quick search turns up: http://www.google.com/custom?domains...D%3A1%3B&hl=en

[Bagged1972]

Thanks tinydb84 and sorry about the bump lol

[andrewmp6]

Depends if your buying a bolt on one or welding on one.

[Bagged1972]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

Depends if your buying a bolt on one or welding on one.

Well I made the center part that bolts to the differential cover and I bought the bars and other stuff from speedway motors

[andrewmp6]

Something i found http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342854

[Bagged1972]

Here is my center point on the rear it's made out of 1/4in steel

[Bagged1972]

[fastbagged68]

Buy a Chris Alston/kp components watts link. It's cheaper to buy it then trying to make one.

[fastbagged68]

I thought Chris alston was $140 but I must of read it wrong. It's $410.

[Bagged1972]

As of right now I have $50 in mine

[tinydb84]

Looks like a good start. You might want to put a second piece of steel over the top of that mount. It might sheer that bolt off.

Make sure your link arms are level at ride height and the center link is perpendicular. With the mount for the center being connected to your axel your room center will move with the height of the truck.

[Bagged1972]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Looks like a good start. You might want to put a second piece of steel over the top of that mount. It might sheer that bolt off.

Make sure your link arms are level at ride height and the center link is perpendicular. With the mount for the center being connected to your axel your room center will move with the height of the truck.

Thanks man for the advice. And not to sound dumb or be a smartass but what would the other piece of steel do if the bolt shears off. Would a hardend grade 9 bolt be my best route?

[tinydb84]

Its not so much the strength of the bolt that is the issue. Its the structural design of it. Maybe one of the engineers here can jump in and provide a better explanation.

Imagine bolting one end of a 2x4 to a wall and standing on it versus bolting each end to two walls and standing in the center. Which one would have more strength?

Same reason you have two tabs on each end of your four link (sorry for the crude explanation but my degrees are in a different field)

[Bagged1972]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Its not so much the strength of the bolt that is the issue. Its the structural design of it. Maybe one of the engineers here can jump in and provide a better explanation.

Imagine bolting one end of a 2x4 to a wall and standing on it versus bolting each end to two walls and standing in the center. Which one would have more strength?

Same reason you have two tabs on each end of your four link (sorry for the crude explanation but my degrees are in a different field)

It's all good man. But let me get this straight your saying add another piece of steel to bolt to the top and bottom of the cover just like the one that goes across it?

[tinydb84]

Look at post number 11 above. See the bracing on the outside? Same thing you should do. Make sure you have enough clearance on each side for the center link to move through the arc.

[Bagged1972]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Look at post number 11 above. See the bracing on the outside? Same thing you should do. Make sure you have enough clearance on each side for the center link to move through the arc.

Ok I see what your saying now thanks for pointing that out for me. I didn't think it would be that much weight on that part.