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#1 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Greer sc
Posts: 14
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Manual to auto question
Hey guys, as I was putting the newly rebuilt 350 and th350 transmission back in my truck today I realized that the tranny was hitting the cross member from the original manual transmission the truck came factory with. This transmission was in there before along with the motor but I do not like that it is rubbing. Is it best to remove this? Are there any issues involved? And what is the best way to go about removing it? They also had the wrong rear crossmember in it for the automatic and I am having trouble finding a parts truck with a factory automatic. Is there anywhere to buy these online or another way to go about it? Any help would be appreciated as I am trying to put the truck back together the right way.
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: Manual to auto question
Drilling out the rivets works best, if you are not saving it a cut through the middle will make it a lot easier to remove.
As far as an auto trans crossmember, a quick check or posting of a WTB in the classifeds should kick one up for sale.
__________________
Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID ** Blazer SPID ** Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders ** Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? ** Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Greer sc
Posts: 14
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Re: Manual to auto question
Okay. So there is no integrity issues with the frame when removing this? Did the factory automatics not come with anything similar in the front?
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#4 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Westlock, Alberta Canada
Posts: 82
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Re: Manual to auto question
Factory auto trucks never had that crossmember. I've tried all the methods for removing rivets, and found that an air hammer(make sure its a good one and not just a viberator) works the best. Theyed pop off in less then 10 hits...
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#5 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Westlock, Alberta Canada
Posts: 82
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Re: Manual to auto question
Factory auto trucks never had that crossmember. I've tried all the methods for removing rivets, and found that an air hammer(make sure its a good one and not just a viberator) works the best. Theyed pop off in less then 10 hits just shearing the head off...
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#6 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Greer sc
Posts: 14
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Re: Manual to auto question
Okay. Thanks! When I get the correct auto transmission cross member will it just bolt on? Are the holes already drilled in the frame?
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#7 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Westlock, Alberta Canada
Posts: 82
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Re: Manual to auto question
I believe they will. Hopefully someone else will chime in to confirm this. I had to move mine back and redrill because of the 6.0/80e swap.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: Manual to auto question
Most of the time the holes are there. However it will also depend on if you 350 engine is in the V8 (forward) or L6 (aft) position. Here are the factory locations. Sorry if I wasn't clearer.
The manual trans crosmember is not installed on automatic trucks. The rear/tailshaft style trans mount/crossmember is not used on manual trucks. 4x2 manual trans = front engine mounts and bell housing mounts (4 points) 4x2 automatic = front engine mounts and trans tailshaft mount (3 points)
__________________
Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID ** Blazer SPID ** Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders ** Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? ** Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban |
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#9 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Greer sc
Posts: 14
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Re: Manual to auto question
Okay. Thank you! I appreciate it
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