What truck is this?

[customcamper7]

What truck is this? It says its a custom camper.
Where can I find more information about the truck?

[LSUMurse]

Are you asking about that specific truck or that year and model?

[SS Tim]

"Custom Camper" is an emblem only option that means the truck met or exceeded qualifying recommended options for truck intended for use as camper carriers.

Looks to me like a 69-71 GMC 2500, 8' bed and 127" wheelbase.
The best place to start is with the VIN plate confirming rosette rivets and the SPID label inside the glove box. These will tell you a lot about the truck, at least "as built".
Here are some links to decoders for the VIN and model number.
As well as manual links.

* VIN/Model Decoders
* Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio)
* Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID
* RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[LSUMurse]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

"Custom Camper" is an emblem only option that means the truck met or exceeded qualifying recommended options for truck intended for use as camper carriers.

What were the options to make it a custom camper?

[customcamper7]

check the rosette rivetts? what are those?



Is there a certain cab over camper that was made for this truck?

Is there a cabover camper that would perform well with this truck?

Would any things be needed to be make it work with a cabober? such as springs, or shock absorbers or anything? What would be a good type of cabover to look for?

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by customcamper7

check the rosette rivetts? what are those?

Is there a certain cab over camper that was made for this truck?

Is there a cabover camper that would perform well with this truck?

Would any things be needed to be make it work with a cabober? such as springs, or shock absorbers or anything? What would be a good type of cabover to look for?

Since a lot of people are finding altered VIN plates I always recommend starting with the numbers. The rosette rivets are a style used by the manufactures to deter theft by being unique and at the time controlled. Note in the picture the cuts around the head in sort of a flower petal arrangement. Often they are replaced with common round head rivets or worse. In these cases it best to verify the frame numbers as well.

In any case the VIN plate number should match the number on the SPID in the glovebox and if present the blue certification door sticker. The frame generally will also have the last eight digits stamped into it as well. The easiest to see is on the top frame rail above the steering box.

If the truck is a true Custom Camper it will have the code Z81 on the SPID.

The rest of the options will determine how well the truck is set up and what it might need for your specific use.

Lets face it a weekend beach runner for a base camp is far different than running deep into the woods for a week or three.

As long as you are within the recommended axle and gross vehicle weight limits you should not require additional springs. Mechanically everything however needs be in good condition.

Camper types are varied and often a choice is motivated by price or floorplan more than anything else.
It all depends on what you want, can find and can afford. I like pop-ups such as Alaskans or Four Wheel Drive campers. Taller hard sides just don't do as well in the wind and its always windy here. But I do like the round top Travel Queens! For the time period they were grand.

Best thing to do is start with what you have and what it can do, then decide on a budget for a camper and repairs/modifications.

But most any earlier camper designed for a full size 8' bed truck should fit. Overall camper length, weight and content should be determined by the truck first then needs. Too much camper is a no win situation.

[customcamper7]

Is the truck meant to carry loads? I looked at the weight information on the door, and it seemed like (if I read it correctly) it will only carry 1,000 lbs

[SS Tim]

Sorry this isn't a guessing game.
What you are reading is probably the "as built" maximum weight and the series "maximum possible" weight, options permitting. Its listed in the owners handbook and the service manual as far as weight limits, required equipment and in 72, camper loading GC range.

If it is a true Z81 Custom Camper then it was designed and built for loads.

Without specific vehicle information from you everything is too generalized to be of a real benefit to anyone.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

"Custom Camper" is an emblem only option that means the truck met or exceeded qualifying recommended options for truck intended for use as camper carriers.

I don't think it's that simple. There are TWO options called "Custom Camper" on the GMC. One is just enough equipment to make it camper or for towing.

The other is the Custom Camper option that turns it into a Longhorn. Or so I think, anyway.

Here's the build thread on mine:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=507395&page=4

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by davepl

I don't think it's that simple. There are TWO options called "Custom Camper" on the GMC. One is just enough equipment to make it camper or for towing.

The other is the Custom Camper option that turns it into a Longhorn. Or so I think, anyway...

Dave we hashed through this several times before on Longhorn and Custom Camper threads. From what we have been able to determine there was no "sales name" for the GMC version of the Longhorn. They were simply known by the model numbers 70-72 C_ _6034 or the 69 C_ _600D with correct engine (E, M or S) and series rating number (2 or 3). The Z81 plate/emblem option was exactly that a free emblem if ordered on qualifying equipment trucks. As I believe the earlier Camper Cruiser were too.

Your truck a CE26034, has the Z81 option listed on the SPID and I have other CE26034 trucks that do not suggesting this is, as with Chevy, a stand alone option.

However this is something I still research whenever a reference or example comes up. GMC trucks are something I am still learning about as compared to Chevys. If you have relevant documentation you wish to share I'd love to see it as would Bruceman1968.

[jlmerie]

Here is the SPID for my 1972 GMC Sierra Grande with Custom Camper options. I don't really know how many of the options are specifically tied to the Custom Camper. This a 3/4 ton and has the Z81 "Custom Camper" designation. Also has heavy rear springs, auxiliary battery, and camper mirrors. VIN TCE242S5...

[Sicklajoie]

All I know is is that's a wicked nice truck.

[stsalvage]

I have to chime in Me I've been in the salvage junk business for over 25 years owned a ton of theses truck's my 1968 or early 1969 long horn with the 1968 front end on it has a lot of leaf springs in the back.The older you get the more you will want to remove spring plates mine has 8 of them on ether side rides like a tank you hit a pot hole you are a pot hole.

I hope to be changing my 1968 long horn to a 1/2 ton with the 8 1 /2 foot bed with side box with factory AC and 396 400 trans

[Sideways]

Originally Posted by Sicklajoie

All I know is is that's a wicked nice truck.

Well said,...........

[customcamper7]

here is my SPID



Any ideas on the exact make and mode/options of this truck?

Thanx for compliments, I'm looking forward to all the future good times I'll be having with the truck.


So I have been thinking a lot about cab-over campers and am having a burning desire to get one for the summer. I'd like to spend no more really than 300 dollars. I've seen some on craigslist for not that much money, I'm looking for something that's cheap, makes efficient use of inside space, and does not weigh too much.

If my truck bed is 8 foot long by 6 foot wide am I limited to cab-over campers with these same exact dimensions? Could I go smaller in size and get a cab-over for 6 foot beds, like this one below, (is for six foot, If I am not mistaken)

[GASoline71]

These trucks were built to haul those behemoth campers. I had one of those I hauled around on a 1979 GMC High Sierra K25. A 1976 Conestoga Camper. It was 19.5 feet from tip to stern, and hung almost 2 feet out the back of the truck. I don't know how much it weighed, but it HAD to be over a ton.

Gary

[customcamper7]

here is a picture of the door decal, I'm not quite sure what its saying. I'm wanting to make sure it has the capacity, but also, If there are cabovers makes/models that are particularly light, I'd also to know that. Some of the cabovers can weigh a lot more than the lighter models true? or is this difference in weight not really substantial for this truck


what holds the camper onto the truck so it doesn't slide out?

would a camper like the one above sit onto my truck and fit right or would it be too small?
The photo of the cabover camper above, does not have a bathroom or a stove, Id like to get one that is compact, but maximizes interior space having both bath and stove

[GASoline71]

The camper slides in and is held in with camper hold downs that have turnbuckles to tighten it down. That camper will fit in, and you remove your tailgate to accomodate it. A lot of these trucks had rear bumpers that would slide out to accomodate a step as well.

Gary

[customcamper7]

would the camper fit up to the truck? are measurements necessary or will my truck carry the small ones just as good?

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by customcamper7

here is my SPID
Any ideas on the exact make and mode/options of this truck?

Thanx for compliments, I'm looking forward to all the future good times I'll be having with the truck.

So I have been thinking a lot about cab-over campers and am having a burning desire to get one for the summer. I'd like to spend no more really than 300 dollars. I've seen some on craigslist for not that much money, I'm looking for something that's cheap, makes efficient use of inside space, and does not weigh too much.

If my truck bed is 8 foot long by 6 foot wide am I limited to cab-over campers with these same exact dimensions? Could I go smaller in size and get a cab-over for 6 foot beds, like this one below, (is for six foot, If I am not mistaken)

To start off the SPID tells us everything about the truck as it was built and what options it had above the base model build.

Did you try the decoders I linked in an earlier post?

It is a 1970 GMC C-2500, 4x2, Wideside 8' bed, 127" wheelbase, V-8 truck built at the Fremont CA assembly plant as confirmed by the VIN and model numbers.

The options on the SPID tell us more.
MODEL= 25934
BX2 B SIDE MLDG-WIDE LWR (lower bodyside moldings)
C60 AIR COND-ALL WEATHER (air conditioning, in dash)
G50 HD REAR SPRINGS (heavy spring option)
J70 BRAKE BOOSTER EQUIP (power drum brakes)
M49 TURBO HYDRA-MATIC (three-speed automatic transmission)
U63 RADIO-PUSH BUTTOM (A/M radio with push buttom controls)
Z53 AMMETER-OIL GAUGE (gauges without tachometer)
606 BLUE VINYL TRIM (basic bench seat interior)

A11 TINTED GLASS
B85 BODY SIDE MOLDING (upper/belt molding)
F59 FRONT STABILIZER EQ (front stabilizer bar)
G70 R SUSP-LEAF SPRING (leaf spring vs coil rear springs)
LS9 350 CU IN V-8 ENGINE (typical 350 4bbl carb)
N40 POWER STEERING
Z52 FULL FOAM SEAT (upgrade foam vs spring seat cushion)
521 WHITE (solid white paint)

It is interesting to note your truck does not have a callout for the Z81 Custom Camper emblems/nameplates!


$300 is a very unrealistic budget for a camper. Most of the time when you find a unit that cheap you are paying someone to haul it away for them. Generally repairs can be very expensive and if it was not cared for the internal structure can be junk as well as the systems.

In fact you can easily spend $300 just on the odds and ends like tie downs and batteries.

On camper sizes you should stick with a camper intended for a full size longbed truck as you 8' is considered. A 6' bed or compact truck camper may not fit well for a number of reasons from cab and bed sidewall height to wheel housing clearance.
Plus a 6' pushed forward will not balance well and if you want interior room there is a big difference between a 6' vs a 8-10' camper.

Measure everything!

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

$300 is a very unrealistic budget for a camper. Most of the time when you find a unit that cheap you are paying someone to haul it away for them. Generally repairs can be very expensive and if it was not cared for the internal structure can be junk as well as the systems.

In fact you can easily spend $300 just on the odds and ends like tie downs and batteries.

Very true! I got the camper I had for $100 bucks as a hunting camper project. After replacing the floor, part of the ceiling, all the wood on 1 wall and all 4 corners where the jacks bolted up because all the wood was rotten. Resealed the entire rig (including windows), made my own curtains and reupolstered the seats. Luckily the 3 way fridge worked flawlessly and the stove/oven worked great. The heater had to be replaced, and the fresh water system all had to be replumbed, and I had to replace the cracked fresh water tank. Black and gray water tanks were okay, but had to reseal the gray water tank where the shower ran into it. Replaced toilet. None of the clearance lights worked, so those all had to be replaced or rewired. Needed new battery. Propane tank was okay. Also had to find a queen mattress for the over cab sleeper.

So needless to say...a $100 dollar camper turned into dang near a $2,000 dollar project. Main thing I can tell you is... double check where there could be water damage and moldy/rotten wood. It will save you a lot of heartache and work.

Gary

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by customcamper7

here is a picture of the door decal, I'm not quite sure what its saying. I'm wanting to make sure it has the capacity, but also, If there are cabovers makes/models that are particularly light, I'd also to know that. Some of the cabovers can weigh a lot more than the lighter models true? or is this difference in weight not really substantial for this truck

what holds the camper onto the truck so it doesn't slide out?

would a camper like the one above sit onto my truck and fit right or would it be too small?
The photo of the cabover camper above, does not have a bathroom or a stove, Id like to get one that is compact, but maximizes interior space having both bath and stove

The plate is very clear. It shows what the truck was built to carry and the maximum possible design weight of the truck.
In the case of your truck it had the maximum capacity springs for the full 7500lb weight but apparently not tires so it was rated down to 6700lb and 4700lb on the rear axle. If you install tires with a load rating exceeding 2750lb each then you will be able to carry the full 7500lb/5500lb within factory recommendations.

As far as how much you can carry, its spelled out there.
Total weight of the truck, full fuel and passengers subtracted from the 7500lb limit (tires permittting). You need a truck scale to do it right.

Will the camper above will fit? Its your call and research. But it does appear to be too short to sit properly on your truck.

You are going to need tie downs to secure the camper to the truck in fact you really need to be talking to someone who will help you set the truck up. From your questions so far you have a steep learning curve ahead.

As I said before you need to look for a camper you can afford, that fits your truck and is reasonably light. You simply cannot carry a full size 11-12' self-contained camper as safely as a later 70s 1-ton dually truck would. Its going to need to be light and if self-contained is a must its going to probably be a 8-9'camper to stay under maximum vehicle weight and rear axle weight limits.

[customcamper7]

I tried the decoder, but wasn't sure if I was pulling up the correct information, I got confused somewhere. Would looking up the codes provide information not covered by the information listed from the SPID?

I don't have too much money so i'm not wanting to break the bank, if I can redo carpets, upholstery, and curtains and save a ton it'd be worth it. I'm not sure if I'll be needing any batteries for the camper yet, just proprane. Are batteries required by law to power lights at night on the cabover?

How can you tell if the structure of the cab over has interior damage? Is water damage/discolored walls the only real indicator? Providing it doesn't look smashed or wasn't in a wreck?

do you think I could get a rugged one and restore it for really cheap?


lastly, this is kind of a weird question, but how is the overhang supported?
p.s. and is the truck not a custom camper then?

[customcamper7]

I greatly appreciate all the help!