327c.i. Sbc running rough, advice needed

[Bullett]

My 62' c10 with a Sbc crate motor, 2 barrel carb., will not idle very well, actually won't idle at all unless I set the idle up to high. This is the only way it will stay running. When I put it in gear (auto. Tranny) it dies. I bought the truck in Dec. and just registered it, I would like to take it out for a cruise but as soon as I start to slow down say, at a stop sign it dies. When I bought the truck, other than being very cold blooded, it did seem to run o.k. Once the truck was up to temp. Earlier this spring, I had the hood up on the truck and a out of control garden hose sprayed water across the top of the motor. After this happened, the truck ran terrible, popping back through the carb. Even shooting fire. I sprayed the distributor cap and plug wires with wd-40 and it ran a bit better. I then repeated the process a few more times until it didn't help anymore. It seems to me that my current problems probably might be from this but not sure. I'll post a couple pics of my motor just incase someone sees something suspicious. I am a body and paint guy, not so good with motor tuning. Thanks for any suggestions.

[Bullett]

Note to mods, this thread was supposed to be in the engine section. Move it there if you would please. Thank you.

[63burban]

Carb base bolt missing is sucking vacuum. By the looks of it, I would rebuild the carb and install a new base gasket and all four base bolts.

[Bullett]

Originally Posted by 63burban

Carb base bolt missing is sucking vacuum. By the looks of it, I would rebuild the carb and install a new base gasket and all four base bolts.

For some reason, that intake manifold only seems to have those 2holes only? I can't see in there but sticking a small screwdriver in, the other 2 holes appear like they were never drilled?

[63burban]

Awesome color on your truck
The bolts are most likely snapped off in the holes, pretty common on those old manifolds. Exhaust heat rises up though the rear area of the carb mounting and raises hell with mounting bolts for the carb.

[cortcomp]

You gotta have a good seal, and i'd have a carb pro rebuilt that for you, and you'll never bother it again.

A pet peeve of mine in the car world is "runs like new!" But when you go look at it, it's "cold blooded, you know how these old cars are" or "well i always let it warm up for 10 minutes".

When these cars were new, you went out and turned the key and went to work. No one had time to let their car warm up 15 minutes before work EVERY DAY or before every errand. Usually, it's a mis-adjusted choke, or no choke at all, or non-working exhaust crossover butterfly valves. People yank these parts thinking they're adding performance.

If you get that carb rebuilt, set that choke right, make sure your ignition is up to par, you should be able to go out when it's 10* outside, hit the key, and drive off, no waiting. It's one of the most satisfying afternoons and couple bucks you can put into an old car.

I have a 66 catalina that i bought as my "family car" because i had an astro van for work and didn't want to put a car seat in the front seat. I took the carb to a great guy in Youngstown (OH) and adjusted the choke and replaced the seized vacuum idle bump solenoid and that car was my daily driver taking her to daycare in the morning for a whole, terrible, winter. Never let me down, start right up and go. Plain 389 2bbl.

Have faith in GM and yourself, and you can make these run as reliably and smooth as a new honda.

[ls60apache]

hello! maybe not your problem,but a good HEI distributor will eliminate future problems. HEI is fairly maintenance free,points can be finiky if the dist is worn.

[awbrown]

Invest in a good vacuum gauge and read the chiltons section on how to use it ... tune ups are always first especially if water had an effect on it , buy good stuff ... second look for a vacuum leak....

[bama63]

Originally Posted by Bullett

For some reason, that intake manifold only seems to have those 2holes only? I can't see in there but sticking a small screwdriver in, the other 2 holes appear like they were never drilled?

sounds crazy but gm designed some rochester 2bbls with only 2 bolts.

[Old Truck Man]

Yes some Rochester 2 bbl intakes only had two holes. Cast iron is easy to drill & tap. It could be a vacuum leak. It could be a bad vacuum advance. Or some other ignition problem. The water may have cracked the distributor cap? A HEI would be better. If the carb isn't dirty it might not need rebuilding. Im of the old school if its not broke don't fix it. If it where me I would pull the plugs and do a compression test. wiggle the front pulley and determine how much slck the timing chain has. if the compression is weak and the timing chain loose no matter how much carb & ignition work you do it wont help anything.

[Bullett]

Great info, thanks fellas. I think first order of business is a good carb rebuild by someone who knows what they are doing. I can drill and tap a couple more holes in manifold, if need be. If that doesn't do it, I will look into the plugs, wires, distributor cap. I'm not sure if the truck is a points ignition or HEI. I would be very surprised if there was any compression issues or worn internal parts. I believe the motor has very few miles on it. Thanks for the ideas, now I have a direction.

[Captainfab]

Your engine has a points distributor.

[AcampoDave]

If I was you I would shoot some WD40 or carb cleaner right at the base of that carb with the motor running and see if the idle changes because it does, you got a vacum leak.

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

If I was you I would shoot some WD40 or carb cleaner right at the base of that carb with the motor running and see if the idle changes because it does, you got a vacum leak.

That would do the trick if it would idle. I agree that it is a vacuum leak. either intake or carb base, even both.

[brokenspoke]

After you get it running good....replace that air cleaner....its a fire hazard....

[Bullett]

O.k., squirted base of carb with wd-40 all seemed well. I then I touched the exhaust manifold on each cyl. And noticed that 2 & 4 cyl. Manifold wasn't as hot as the rest. Got on line, found firing order and found that my 2&4 cyl. Plug wires were crossed. Thought I had found the problem but I started it up and it still doesn't want to idle unless I set the idle way up high. Even then, when in put it in gear, the motor dies. Did I possibly hurt something when the 2 wires were crossed? Could it have screwed up the spark plugs in those 2 cyl.?

[Bullett]

Think I might have answered my own question. Just pulled both plugs and I can see that one of them is junk.

[AcampoDave]

Are you sure only #'s 2 and 4 were crossed? If I found a problem like that I'd have to bring the #1 to t.d.c and check 'em all. Have you done that already?

[Bullett]

O.k., put a new plug in place of the junk plug, and it didn't help. I took the plug, and the one next to it out and checked to see they were both firing, and they were. I compression checked the #2 cyl and compared it to #4 and the both were about 150psi, give or take. So, I am at a dead end. I think I have narrowed the problem down to the #2 cyl not doing what it supposed to. It has fire, and compression. What next?

[Bullett]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Are you sure only #'s 2 and 4 were crossed? If I found a problem like that I'd have to bring the #1 to t.d.c and check 'em all. Have you done that already?

I don't have a top dead center tool. I just took the truck around the block and it has a popping/back firing sound. Nothing violent, just a popping sound that comes and goes. I guess I could go buy a new distributor cap and plug wires but I don't really want to keep throwing new parts on it until it is fixed, I would rather figure it out. Are the plug wires on an older, non HEI, ignition interchangeable with a plug wire from a newer HEI ignition? Also, where would I find out exactly what year the motor is? There must be numbers stamped into it somewhere? Thanks

[AcampoDave]

You need a pal to help you with finding tdc. You dont need any tools. Just someone to bump the key while you plug the sparkplug hole with your finger. Do you know how to do this? I'm not being rude here but this stuff is tune up 101. We can help you but it would be easier to look up a youtube on installing a distributor or setting the firing order on a small block Chevy. And have you verified a good seal on the carb base as others have pointed out? Having only 2 bolts looks problematic to me.

[bj383ss]

I had this same problem with my The 383 in my caprice. I did everything you have done. i finally pulled the valve covers and turned the engine over by hand and I had several cam lobes that were flat and not opening the valves. I hope its not what is wrong with yours

Bret

[Bullett]

Originally Posted by bj383ss

I had this same problem with my The 383 in my caprice. I did everything you have done. i finally pulled the valve covers and turned the engine over by hand and I had several cam lobes that were flat and not opening the valves. I hope its not what is wrong with yours

Bret

Ewww! I am hoping that isn't the issue but anything is possible. Again, the motor is supposed to be a low mile motor. I guess it never hurts to look, pulling a valve cover off is easy enough. I will give that a look after work tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Ken Magura]

Originally Posted by Bullett

Ewww! I am hoping that isn't the issue but anything is possible. Again, the motor is supposed to be a low mile motor. I guess it never hurts to look, pulling a valve cover off is easy enough. I will give that a look after work tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestion.

Bullet: Unless that out of control garden hose crossed those wires, I would replace that cap that got cracked when the water hit that warn motor.
KM

[AcampoDave]

Hey Ken, welcome to the forum.