1958 Chevy apache

[Papamacksaw]

Help can't get this apache running. 235. 3speed manual trans. Turns over has spark! new plugs new points rotor cap wire coil. Rebuilt carb new fuel pump proper firing order did top dead center compression stroke dead on! Makes no effffort to start even with starting fluid even jumped coil from battery. Ballast resister power both sides in and out one thing coil lights up ontest light with key off key on coil not hot what's up. Any help appreciated ken

[dwcsr]

if it has spark and fuel and doesn't start on starting fluid. It doesn't have enough spark or compression or has a massive vacuum leak. I suspect its either a very weak spark or a huge vacuum leak. But it should show some reaction on fluid so you don't have one of the above that you think you have.

Go over it again,
Timing is set with #1 at TDC and the #1 push rods loose enough to spin and the ball on the flywheel centered on the pointer in the bell housing just above the starter. Loosen the dist clamp screw that holds the vacuum advance to the dist housing. Loosen the block bolt and put the advance lines at 0, lock it down. with the rotor pointing toward #1 on the cap turn the dist body until the points just open, lock down the screw. your timed. make sure the points are gaped correctly. a business card is just about right. Make sure you don't have a internal resistor in the coil and on the firewall. make sure the gas in the carb will burn, remove some and light it. Make sure the rotor is in place. check spark at the plug. Firing order is 1.5.3.6.2.4 clockwise rotation. Just check all the basic things. if all fails check compression, Sometimes when you look at things to long you over look obvious problems, spark, air, fuel and compression is all you need.

[OrrieG]

Another member is struggling with this too. Make sure your valves are adjusted. a little loose ok, too tight and the valves will not seal.

[Papamacksaw]

Dave don't understand how do you know vacn advance at zero

[Papamacksaw]

Does clutch. have to be pressed in to start this truck too late too try tonite but can that be my problem. ???

[OrrieG]

No interlock, trans in neutral, will be a little slower turning and more load on the starter.
Initial timing is done with vacuum hose disconnected from carb or dist which ever is easier. If carb csp the port.

[pvienneau]

I'm working same issue with a 51 216, I get the pop and smoke out of the W1 carb and Exhaust manifold.

[Papamacksaw]

Still don't start makes an effort as if it is flooded from time to time went over timing it is correct tdc. points gapped all new distributor parts coil. Etc Nothing left even jumped the coil direct to the distributor that's the only time motor makes an effort ,, Ignition switch lights test light on coil in off position and goes out in on position. Need ignition switch ????want to set this thing on fire !!!lol

[Papamacksaw]

Meaning went from battery hot to coil

[OrrieG]

I had a rig that ing switch went bad, would fire in start died when released to run. Jump from battery to coil to take the run circuit out of the switch and try it again. If it starts test the switch. You said you tested the resisto input and output too?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by Papamacksaw

Dave don't understand how do you know vacn advance at zero

On the plate that bolts the unit to the block is a scale with 0 in the middle, there is a corresponding mark in the block line those up

follow this

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com.../55csm0609.jpg

[Papamacksaw]

Thanks Dave will try tomorrow appreciate everybody's input. Ken

[pvienneau]

Papa, any luck gettin her runnin?

[Papamacksaw]

Pat. We got it almost going yesterday. By putting oil down the cylinders for compression this truck sat for twenty years. But was not seized hoping by soaking cylinders in on. Blaster that the rings will free themselves. We are close. I will try. Again tomorrow and see if soaking. And some Lucas thicker oil will start her up once started I believe rings will get back to normal. And I'll have a running truck. Will keep update. Thanks for asking.
Ken.

[Papamacksaw]

On blaster. Was the lubricant sorry

[Papamacksaw]

P. b. blaster. Damn computer.

[Larry58gmc]

If you're leaving the switch on for an extended time while trying to start it, could the resistor lead from the switch be reducing your voltage to about 8 volts and not giving hot enough spark to start the engine. Just wondering if that could happen. Larry

Maybe not. To answer my own question, that is what the lead from solenoid is supposed to be for. Duhhhh Larry

[dubds10]

My ignition system has been acting up for a week now and being a real pain in the butt. Was supposed to dyno today, but instead I fought with the truck for hours on end to no avail lol I feel like batting the damn thing, but I'll try again in the morning.

Good luck getting it started. My old '50 had a 40 year old engine, never rebuilt, sitting for some odd years and it fired up and drove home no problem when I bought it. These old engine can last a long time.

[OrrieG]

If you keep the ignition switch in the on position with the engine not running, and the points are closed you can burn them up. Electronic ignition is not problem.

[Papamacksaw]

It's not a spark or gas issue. Not been run in 20 years compression problem. Trying to loosen up the rings. When we poured oil down cylinders this thing wanted to go. Been soaking cylinders for 4 days. Will try today to fire it up. Thanks for all the help. Will let you all know. Kenny