Need body mount/gap advice

[McKenna]

Hello again guys, I have a 2wd C10 (1970) that I've been doing a frame off resto to.

I took the frame to bare metal and finished it then put CPP drop spindles and a drop kit 5.5/6 for right now but likly going to have to drop the back a tad more.

I'm at the point where I am trying to line the front clip (fenders rad support etc)
Onto the front end

I have a energy suspension poly kit which I have checked and it is correct for my frame and cab. My core support is a new goodmark and my fenders are also new aftermarkets ( I am well aware the fitment is rough) but living in Atlantic Canada leaves finding repairable fenders next to impossible.

Where I am running into my problem is that my cab appears to be running with a lot of rake toward the front (could be the drop as well making it look worse then it is). But with my new core support mounts in place the core support seems like it is sitting to high.

This creates what seems to be a V at the fender. The top gap is liveable but the bottem is about a 1" gap between fender and door it's also noticeably worse on the passangers side.

On the drivers side there is no gap my fender is touching the door so it is almost as if the cab is turned slightly and needs to come back 1/4 inch on the drivers side and ahead a 1/4" on the passangers.

I set the box on to try to use it as a guide and with the original rubber frame mounts it has the opposite V as the front big gap at top of box and cab with the box and can touching on the passangers side.

This was my dad's truck I had always noticed the gap at the box being off but never up front, he mever replaced the core support bushings so I am assuming maybe they were old and rotten thus making the core support sag to match the front of the cab.

There was extensive work done to the floor boards and the braces where the cab sits on the mounts by my dad's friend about 15 years ago. I'm thinking perhaps he has the front ones sitting to low or sagging causing the cab to lean forward.

I removed the rear mounts to see if it
Helped but the rear cannot really come down anymore as it's only 1/4" from Hitting the hump on the driveshaft cross member.

Do you guys think I am on the right track with jacking the cab? Is there a particular spot where my stepside step should sit in relation to the bottem of the rocker panel?

Should the stepside step bottem sit flush with the bottem of the rocker or should the top sit flush with the bottem of the rockers?

Right now looking at the body lines it would a appear that my cab is sitting to low all around because my body lines on my box aren't sitting level with my cab. It would be hard to see in pictures but I am going to grab some today.

Any input at all would be greatly appreciated

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by McKenna

Hello again guys, I have a 2wd C10 (1970) that I've been doing a frame off resto to.

I took the frame to bare metal and finished it then put CPP drop spindles and a drop kit 5.5/6 for right now but likly going to have to drop the back a tad more.

I'm at the point where I am trying to line the front clip (fenders rad support etc)
Onto the front end

I have a energy suspension poly kit which I have checked and it is correct for my frame and cab. My core support is a new goodmark and my fenders are also new aftermarkets ( I am well aware the fitment is rough) but living in Atlantic Canada leaves finding repairable fenders next to impossible.

Where I am running into my problem is that my cab appears to be running with a lot of rake toward the front (could be the drop as well making it look worse then it is). But with my new core support mounts in place the core support seems like it is sitting to high.

This creates what seems to be a V at the fender. The top gap is liveable but the bottem is about a 1" gap between fender and door it's also noticeably worse on the passangers side.

On the drivers side there is no gap my fender is touching the door so it is almost as if the cab is turned slightly and needs to come back 1/4 inch on the drivers side and ahead a 1/4" on the passangers.

I set the box on to try to use it as a guide and with the original rubber frame mounts it has the opposite V as the front big gap at top of box and cab with the box and can touching on the passangers side.

This was my dad's truck I had always noticed the gap at the box being off but never up front, he mever replaced the core support bushings so I am assuming maybe they were old and rotten thus making the core support sag to match the front of the cab.

There was extensive work done to the floor boards and the braces where the cab sits on the mounts by my dad's friend about 15 years ago. I'm thinking perhaps he has the front ones sitting to low or sagging causing the cab to lean forward.

I removed the rear mounts to see if it
Helped but the rear cannot really come down anymore as it's only 1/4" from Hitting the hump on the driveshaft cross member.

Do you guys think I am on the right track with jacking the cab? Is there a particular spot where my stepside step should sit in relation to the bottem of the rocker panel?

Should the stepside step bottem sit flush with the bottem of the rocker or should the top sit flush with the bottem of the rockers?

Right now looking at the body lines it would a appear that my cab is sitting to low all around because my body lines on my box aren't sitting level with my cab. It would be hard to see in pictures but I am going to grab some today.

Any input at all would be greatly appreciated

The cab should sit level. The bottom of the steps should be even with the bottom of the rockers. If the mounts for the bed haven't been modified, mount it and work forward adjusting the gaps until they are correct by shimming cab mounts and core support. Then just measure the shims. That will tell you how far off the cab mounts are.

[2 Far Gone]

I had to start by leveling the frame on jack stands, side to side and back to front. Then level and shim the cab and core support from there.
When I started leveling the box,I lined up the body line on the door and cab with the body line on the stepside fender. Ran a piece of tape along the line to keep it level and lined up.
Good Luck,

[McKenna]

Thanks guys I appreciate it! Maybe I'll take it apart this weekend and try leaking the frame, you say the cab should sit level on the frame if the frame is level?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by McKenna

Thanks guys I appreciate it! Maybe I'll take it apart this weekend and try leaking the frame, you say the cab should sit level on the frame if the frame is level?

Yes. At the pinchweld if you level the frame.

[McKenna]

Noob question of the day, what's a pinchweld

[2 Far Gone]

Originally Posted by McKenna

Noob question of the day, what's a pinchweld

Bottom of the rocker panel

[McKenna]

Gotcha thanks! They also replaced those but surely they're fairly straight to get a decent measure from.

I moved the truck to my fathers shop tonight as he has a bigger more level garage where mines a narrow single garage. I'm hoping it'll help me get a better perspective looking sideways at the truck and help me get it levelled.

Start tomorrow with a level, painters tape, and some shims! Thanks for everything guys I will keep you updated! I've managed to do everything myself so far but I can say this part right now has been the most frustrating and discourging part of the whole build

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by McKenna

Gotcha thanks! They also replaced those but surely they're fairly straight to get a decent measure from.

I moved the truck to my fathers shop tonight as he has a bigger more level garage where mines a narrow single garage. I'm hoping it'll help me get a better perspective looking sideways at the truck and help me get it levelled.

Start tomorrow with a level, painters tape, and some shims! Thanks for everything guys I will keep you updated! I've managed to do everything myself so far but I can say this part right now has been the most frustrating and discourging part of the whole build

You only need a long level to check the cab at the pinchwelds on each side. Since they hang down, there isn't anything that could damage them that makes them stretch! Just bridge the gaps with the magnetic 3 foot level you will need to level the frame!

[davepl]

I dunno... it'd be hard to be off by something measured in inches, wouldn't it? Did you perhaps replace mounts or rubber bushings or anything? They do not interchange between C10 and C20, so it's quite possible to get the wrong ones.

I can take pictures of how mine sits on it's mounts, but its a Longhorn so wouldn't tell you much I don't think.

[McKenna]

I've looked at my mounts and triple checked myself, I'm assuming it is somthing along the lines of a frame being twisted or the idiots that did the rust repair the first time. When I got it the cab was held on with carriage bolts and hockey pucks. I'm at the point with it where I am just about ready to part it out and go buy somthing southern.