Worth the trouble? (Rear end swap)

[70's luvr]

I've got a 1970 2500 with a Dana 60 (4.10) that needs brakes ,wheel cylinders and axle seals (on one side so might as well do both). I'm putting in a 700r4 (pulling T400) and wondering if it's just cheaper to put in a used 14 bolt that's in good shape (3.73-8 bolt) that will match with the new trans better. I can get it for 100-125$ but it's 1" wider on both sides(67.5"). Will that be noticeable/an issue with tires? I'll add that I need to put 9/16" studs in the Dana to match the newer front end I just bought(66" wide).

The spring perches are the same width bt I'd have to deal with at least one shock mount being moved.

[Gimme Jimmy]

I have heard that the 14 bolt axle is a good one. I dont think that the extra width will hurt you either, unless you are using some odd wheel/tire combo and dont have the clearance. Moving or rewelding the spring pads and/or shock mounts is not too hard if you can find a good welder. There are lots of used (leaf spring) Dana 60's around but GM used primarily 4.10's (small block) and 3.54's (big block) on the '67-'72's. According to the sales literature of that day, the buyer could order 3.73's from the factory (probably kinda rare). Anyway, just the parts alone needed to change your axle could be $300 to $700 or more depending on the condition.

[Bigdav160]

The Dana is a great axle with plenty of aftermarket support. I'm not sure why you change it.

[sapper4]

I couldn't be happier with my swap. my 72 has leaf springs, so all i had to do was remount the shock mounts. I went from 4.10 to 3.42. It is outstanding!

[Gimme Jimmy]

Sure, the Dana 60 is a good axle with OEM and aftermarket parts galore, but the D60 has a fatal drawback that is hard to ignore. D60's tend to "spin" carrier bearings.
Most often the outer race will spin in the case. If run in this condition for more than a few miles its "game over" for the housing. Less often, the inner race will spin on the carrier, ruining it. This can be corrected by replacing the carrier. These problems are somewhat avoidable if the proper preload is set on the bearings at assembly. (Always refer to Dana specs on assembly.)
I dont know if the 14 bolt has similar problems. It is a more Modern design. Generally, the D60 is a very ruggedly built and long lasting unit and will hold up for a long time if properly assembled and maintained.

[tsetsaf]

I have a 14 bolt. Had to narrow it but it works great. After the fact I did find out that the 11.5 aam out of the 3rd gen dodges is the perfect width. If I did it again that is what I would use.

[airdale94]

The 14bolt is about an inch wider on each side but if you swap in the 73-87 front that's about an inch wider also.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by 70's luvr

I've got a 1970 2500 with a Dana 60 (4.10) that needs brakes ,wheel cylinders and axle seals (on one side so might as well do both). I'm putting in a 700r4 (pulling T400) and wondering if it's just cheaper to put in a used 14 bolt that's in good shape (3.73-8 bolt) that will match with the new trans better. I can get it for 100-125$ but it's 1" wider on both sides(67.5"). Will that be noticeable/an issue with tires? I'll add that I need to put 9/16" studs in the Dana to match the newer front end I just bought(66" wide).

The spring perches are the same width bt I'd have to deal with at least one shock mount being moved.

Brake shoes, 57.00 /set
Wheel cylinders 10.95 ea.
axle seals 12.97 ea
3.73 ring and pinion 197.00
Pinion install kit 27.00 (bearing, seal crush sleeve and shims).
Total $359.90

Vs the $600.00 cost of rebuilding that 125.00 diff that's in "good shape". There was a reason that diff was removed from the truck it was in. I would NEVER install a used diff that had not been freshly rebuilt by me or someone I trust. Been burned too many times by the "it was fine when I took it out" story! And, you don't have to narrow it so your existing wheels and tires will fit the fender wells. If you have never narrowed a Diff get ready for a shock...most shops charge between $800.00 and $1000.00 to do that without installing new innards. Just the tools needed for that job are $400.00, and you have to have a welder laying around and someone with the skill to use it.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by Gimme Jimmy

Sure, the Dana 60 is a good axle with OEM and aftermarket parts galore, but the D60 has a fatal drawback that is hard to ignore. D60's tend to "spin" carrier bearings.
Most often the outer race will spin in the case. If run in this condition for more than a few miles its "game over" for the housing.

On mine the end bearing (at the hub) was spinning in the tube so they had to machine it out and sleeve it. Are you talking about a different bearing (sorry, not sure what carrier bearing refers to in this case).

In any event, if we're talking about the same bearing, it was about $100 to fix.

[kwmech]

3/4 ton with an overdrive, I'd keep the 4.10s and do a brake job, the over drive will take you down to about a 3-1 final

[davepl]

I went 4.56 with a .67 overdrive, yielding me 3.05:1 final drive. That is way better than the stock 3.54:1 and far, far deeper in first than the TH400+3.54 ever would have been. All it's going to do is produce more tire smoke, but hey, why not.

My tire is a little taller than stock, just an inch or two, so it's more like just under 3.0:1

BTW, that $100 for machining and sleeving the bearing race was just part of a $3500 overhaul (which in turn included new gears and a posi). So fixing an old rear end can be a lot more expensive than swapping in a used one. Other than the odds the used one is bad, if you can pick one up cheap enough and were not worried about originality that's what I'd do!

[70's luvr]

Thanks for all the advice guys! Looks like I'll be rebuilding the Dana 60 for now as a different rear end/ gear ratio would be easy to install later if the 4.10 is too steep. Plus there is something to not buying a rear end that might have unknown issues.

Originally Posted by Fitz

Brake shoes, 57.00 /set
Wheel cylinders 10.95 ea.
axle seals 12.97 ea
3.73 ring and pinion 197.00
Pinion install kit 27.00 (bearing, seal crush sleeve and shims).
Total $359.90

Curious where are you getting these prices? Rock auto?