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06-16-2014, 03:10 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6
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'71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Hello everyone, My bearing on my 1971 K20 front right seized and almost yanked me off the road the other day. The inside of the hub where the bearing chase sits got some gouges, and the locking hub took some damage also. Upon dismantling it I had to cut the locking nuts off because they were warped into ovals. It looks like the spindle threads are still ok though. I haven't done this before, I found the Chiltons and Haynes manuals cheap so I picked them up.Can i find a single locking hub to replace the damaged one or are they hard to find as a single? Do I need to replace the hub since it is gouged (see pic)? What brand bearings are suggested? The last shot is how it sits now. I'm assuming what is still on there is what is left of the old bearing. Thank you any advice/help you can supply!
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06-16-2014, 03:16 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Putnam, CT
Posts: 86
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
go to a salvage yard, you should be able to get the hub and spindle with locking nut. this would be the cheapest way to go
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06-16-2014, 03:21 PM
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#3 |
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Registered User
 Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Iowa
Posts: 1,106
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
I think you can clean up and re-build what you have. The inner races of both bearings are still on the spindle. They should be easy to cut off. The outer race on the inside bearing still appears tight to the housing. This is also a good sign. Best way to remove them is to weld a bead right in the middle of the race all the way around where the bearings would run. As this cools it will contract and make the race smaller, it will then all but fall out. Obviously you will need new locking nuts and a good clean up. Remeber the driver's side may not be far behind this one. Good Luck, Bruce
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06-16-2014, 04:07 PM
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#4 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Edwards, CA
Posts: 7,503
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Quote:
__________________
Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID ** Blazer SPID ** Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders ** Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? ** Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban |
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06-16-2014, 06:18 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Alright, so I'll call or hit some salvage yards after removing the rest of the bearings. I took the left side apart to help me figure out what I was looking at on the right. It is back together now but I'll probably take care of those too.
Bruce, so not all bad news, nice. I have a welder so I could try that trick to get the race off. SS tim...I'll read that factory manual, thanks |
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06-16-2014, 06:36 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Colorado Rocky Mountains
Posts: 263
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Bummer about your wheel bearings signing off.
Welding on the race works well, you can also grind a couple of grooves across the race with a thin cut off wheel, wrap a rag around it and use a cold chisel and bfh (hammer) to break/ separate the race. Don't grind too deep and get into the spindle. Timken bearings and National seals have been good to me over the years. All the best, Dirk |
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06-16-2014, 07:56 PM
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tacoma Washington
Posts: 890
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Quote:
__________________
I know a guy who's addicted to brake fluid. He says he can stop any time. 72 K10 396 75 Cj5 MPI 350 Chev 67 Chevelle 396, 4 speed 74 FXE 08 Tahoe |
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06-16-2014, 08:35 PM
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#8 |
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Vintage 4x4s
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Prior Lake, MN
Posts: 4,305
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
I would replace the spindle also unless its not grooved or discolored from heat.
As for bearings, anything US, Japanese, or German made is what I prefer.
__________________
67 GMC K1500 Custom- 305V6 SM420, PTO, Ram Assist, yellow (the outcast) (project period correct upgrades) 67 GMC C2500 351V6 TH400, AC, PS, PB (can't decide what to do with. Update, decided to keep and will restore  )86 CHV K30 502 th400, apple red NEW 71 CHV K20 350 SM465, ochre (saved work truck) 71 CHV K20 292 SM465, white, tach, PTO, (future project) 72 CHV K20 350 350th, medium blue (project stocker) 01 CHV K2500hd crew, indigo blue ^3 dont run and the others don't see winter either '86 K30 Cummins "Fireside" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649649 '71 K20 "get driveable" thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=590642 '72 K20 Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=493477&page=6 |
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06-18-2014, 09:21 AM
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: West Iowa
Posts: 1,106
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
I agree with the above. If there is any evidence the races have spun or got hot, replace the above mentioned parts. It is difficult to judge by picture only, but I do not see obvious signs of spinning or excessive heat in the picture. Good luck to you, Bruce
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06-20-2014, 09:37 PM
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 6
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Re: '71 K20 Destroyed Bearing
Thanks for the advice on the damage and which brand bearings/seals. It sounds like I will know more once I try to pull the rest apart and see under the races etc. Hammer and grinder...Hopefully the spindle is good, if not I'll replace it and do the bearings on the other side too.
thanks again, nice rides guys |
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