Bondo over trim holes.

[Cmillet]

I understand why you don't use bondo over the trim holes on the bed. (They will wick moisture from the back side. But how about on the door and the cab?

[joey8383]

Weld them. Body filler will crack if used like that.

[too much stuff]

Weld them if you can.

[RManson]

Body filler is meant to be used as a skim coat to perfect surface imperfections.

Apply a skim coat over a hole and try to pop it out once it kicks. You'll see why you don't use it for that type of application.

[BigMike]

Actually if done the right way, it can be done without popping out or cracking. I wouldn't do it today, but had done it with great results in the 80's. There is a technique to it... I am NOT saying this is the right way to do it, it isn't. But it can be done successfully.

But since I don't wanna get bashed for something I did as a teen I won't elaborate...

But as others have posted, the best way is having them welded.

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by BigMike

Actually if done the right way, it can be done without popping out or cracking. I wouldn't do it today, but had done it with great results in the 80's. There is a technique to it... I am NOT saying this is the right way to do it, it isn't. But it can be done successfully.

But since I don't wanna get bashed for something I did as a teen I won't elaborate...

But as others have posted, the best way is having them welded.

Let me guess....

Grind around the hole with very rough paper, then take a pointy body hammer and knock the hole inward somewhat before applying bondo ?

Back in the 80's before I had welder access, that was standard procedure when we'd dechrome our Cal-Look Volkswagens. It actually works fairly well. Hack I know, but what can I say ? You do it and it still looks good 5 years later. When you're 18 years old, that 5 years is a lifetime.

[hugger6933]

You talk about moisture inside the door, you would be horrified if you saw what the inside of most "good" doors looked like. The General in his wisdom was not really thinking that people would be making these trucks as icons or status symbols just trucks to hauls stuff. With that said they did no rustproofing whatsoever anywhere that panels are joined. The inner bed side panels first alerted me to this and that is when I started splitting the inner and outer skins apart on the bedsides as part of paint prep. When I went to repair a door that had some damage, I removed the skin to do that, and found the same thing inside the door. The "best" door I had to choose from in my stack of doors still was covered in rust on the inside even though the outside looked good as new. Now about the filer in the holes it could last a while, but what if you door is a little hard to shut and the latch is a little off[as some are] the first time someone who doesn't know your truck slams the door, you could loose some filler plugs. You might be able to get by with it for a long time and never have a problem me it would happen when I pulled it out of the booth if I tried to do it. Good luck. Jim

[67 chevelle]

if you dont want to weld , or cant , you can panel bond a slightly larger sheet metal plug from the back side , and then put a thin skim of body filler on top , bondo shrinks over time , even the stuff that says it does not , and is meant for very thin application , not for filling holes , panel bond and jb weld are basically the same thing , 2 part epoxy

[BigMike]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Let me guess....

Grind around the hole with very rough paper, then take a pointy body hammer and knock the hole inward somewhat before applying bondo ?

Back in the 80's before I had welder access, that was standard procedure when we'd dechrome our Cal-Look Volkswagens. It actually works fairly well. Hack I know, but what can I say ? You do it and it still looks good 5 years later. When you're 18 years old, that 5 years is a lifetime.

Hahaha...yup, that was basically it. Good to know I wasn't the only kid doing it that way back in the day. Never had any issues with filler shrinking though. Again, if done correctly you shouldn't have an issue with it. The only time I have run across shrinkage is on plastic parts or painting something before everything has had time to cure, usually with cheaper products.

[k_n_browning]

or you could just lead solder them up.There used to be a 1"x1" iron that your heated up with a torch.Some where in my tools I still have one.We used them with pull hooks.To seal up the holes.Old school body work no plastic.

[Big Block]

There is a product on the market called Fusor. It is a panel adhesive made for automotive body work. I’ve been using it instead of welding patches and also for installing trunk floors, 1/4 panels etc… It is actually stronger than welding and your repairs are water-tight…no welding pin holes for water to seep and eventually cause rust. Another advantage , no warpage. You should check into it . Basic prep…cut-off wheel to slice, sandblast or grind to provide clean surface, fabricate and fit replacement panel or patch, apply Fusor…clamp and wait. They have different set times, 5 minute up to 60 minute depending on panel size and desired work time. You can install cab corners /rocker panels in several hours. You cannot separate this stuff, it’s mega strong.

[Youey]

This might not be the correct way but used a epoxy for small screw holes then sanded it down to smooth, worked really well haven't seen anything popping through paint in 5+ years now

[Cmillet]

Thanks guys. I went ahead and welded them. Just wanted to hear some ideas.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Cmillet

bondo over the trim holes

That's just hacking. Do it right and weld them closed.