Disc brake upgrade questions

[agnes the dog]

My research has left me pretty much blind and without a real definitive answer. I'm considering upgrading to front disc brakes, but I'm not really all that interested in power brakes. I've come up with several options. Before I make a decision, I would like to hear from others about their choices and experiences. If you have upgraded, please chime in with your experiences, good or bad, and any advice you might give....

Here's what I'm considering:

1. Purchase just the brackets and piece together the calipers, rotors, etc from parts stores or junk yards. Benefit - cheap. $100 +/- for the brackets, plus cost of the rest of the parts.

2. Purchase a kit with everything. Benefit - everything's in one nice bundle. Pricey, but maybe worth it if piecing together new stuff is comparable. $350 +/-

3. Break down and buy the power brakes. I'm not convinced that I need them. Very expensive and somewhat more involved than straight disc brakes. $650 +/-

A couple of additional questions:

What years do the kits pull the calipers, rotors, pads, etc from?

Do I need a new master cylinder? The one I have is about two years old and works fine.

I can see that I need a proportioning valve. What is it and what does it do?

Any suggestions about how to fit disc brakes on the stock rear axle would be appreciated too.

Thanks in advance.

1959 3100 dropped straight axle

JJ

[sqrlnts]

I am also interested in running the same setup on my truck. From my reading those that have manual discs up front are very happy compared to 4 wheel drums.

Post a picture of your master cylinder or more details on what its from. I don't think you need a proportioning valve for manual brakes. Its basically used to set up front to rear brake bias.

Have you checked out the Speedway kit?

[agnes the dog]

Originally Posted by sqrlnts

I am also interested in running the same setup on my truck. From my reading those that have manual discs up front are very happy compared to 4 wheel drums.

Post a picture of your master cylinder or more details on what its from. I don't think you need a proportioning valve for manual brakes. Its basically used to set up front to rear brake bias.

Have you checked out the Speedway kit?

My MC is just a stock replacement... I did see the Speedway kit, but it's a 5 lug. I have 6 lug wheels. :-( I couldn't find a 6 lug kit on their site.

[sqrlnts]

Originally Posted by agnes the dog

My MC is just a stock replacement... I did see the Speedway kit, but it's a 5 lug. I have 6 lug wheels. :-( I couldn't find a 6 lug kit on their site.

Here is the kicker on the Speedway kit, unless you used adapters to go back to 6!!! CPP has a 6 lug disc brake front kit but its pricey.....

[_Ogre]

i looked at doing this when i first started on truk, the $350 kit doesn't include the mc, brake lines or any fittings
there is a good article on customclassictrucks.com on installing the cpp $700 kit that includes the power mc
making your own kit is great if you have the fab skills to make the brackets
after viewing the options i went with a $1800 mustII kit that gave me the drop, ride and brakes that i wanted.

i installed a hydroboost under floor to maintain a uncluttered firewall and made my own bracket
i already had power steering and the pump required for a hydroboost

[topdown99]

Originally Posted by agnes the dog

My research has left me pretty much blind and without a real definitive answer. I'm considering upgrading to front disc brakes, but I'm not really all that interested in power brakes. I've come up with several options. Before I make a decision, I would like to hear from others about their choices and experiences. If you have upgraded, please chime in with your experiences, good or bad, and any advice you might give....

Here's what I'm considering:

1. Purchase just the brackets and piece together the calipers, rotors, etc from parts stores or junk yards. Benefit - cheap. $100 +/- for the brackets, plus cost of the rest of the parts.

2. Purchase a kit with everything. Benefit - everything's in one nice bundle. Pricey, but maybe worth it if piecing together new stuff is comparable. $350 +/-

3. Break down and buy the power brakes. I'm not convinced that I need them. Very expensive and somewhat more involved than straight disc brakes. $650 +/-

A couple of additional questions:

What years do the kits pull the calipers, rotors, pads, etc from?

Do I need a new master cylinder? The one I have is about two years old and works fine.

I can see that I need a proportioning valve. What is it and what does it do?

Any suggestions about how to fit disc brakes on the stock rear axle would be appreciated too.

Thanks in advance.

1959 3100 dropped straight axle

JJ

I am wondering the same thing. I had planned on a full power brake upgrade, but cant afford it right now. a friend of mine had a CPP drop axle with disc brakes but he is keeping everything else from his CPP kit (booster/MC/Prop/etc...). so now I need to figure out how to run manual disc's

I also run a stock 4-speed and it looks/sounds like you have to swap out your transmission crossmember to run power brake setups... not something I can afford the time to do, gotta get her up and running ASAP.

on a side note - I have the axle with disc upgrade sitting on my garage floor, so if anyone wants pics, let me know and I will take whatever I can.

[Russell Ashley]

I had the CPP disk brake upgrade on my truck for the last three years and I was very happy with it. I bought the whole kit with booster and mount, and I redid my whole brake system when I installed it, with new drums on the rear and all new lines. I have since removed it to upgrade my suspension. I think you would be happy with it but, for what it's worth, be aware that the rotors that come with the kit are not standard, but are Ford rotors drilled with Chevy bolt pattern. There is an adapter sleeve that comes with the kit that accepts the ford bearings and seal and spaces the inner bearing out to fit the shorter Ford rotor. Not a big deal I guess except that you can't go to a local parts house and buy a replacement rotor. Apparently most if not all of the kits are this way, as the Scott's setup that I'm installing came with the same rotors as the CPP kit.

[Coach529]

I put a Speedway kit in Henry. Could not be happier.

I could have probably sourced everything from a pick and pull cheaper.....but time is money. Beats laying in the grass getting ate by bugs.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Front-...-3-4,2013.html

[Coach529]

I am manual brakes by the way........and have no complaints

[topdown99]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I am manual brakes by the way........and have no complaints

So, dumb question Time:
Other than bolting them up, did you need anything else to get running?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by topdown99

So, dumb question Time:
Other than bolting them up, did you need anything else to get running?

I would suggest a dual reservoir w/ a prop valve and you will need residual pressure valves because of the location of the reservoir.

Also best to replace lines while you are at it.

[dubie]

I used the CPP kit on my 56 with a dropped axle. It cost me about $800 and came with everything I needed. The entire install only took a couple hours and then all that was left was to bend and install all the new lines and bench bleed it. I've been VERY happy with the entire thing. I swapped my to the 5 x 4.75" kit so I could have access to the car bolt pattern

[mark '87 930]

I realize this is a very old thread, but JJ, did you get answers you were looking for?

I have pretty much the same question. wondering if you can put just Disc brakes up front and do NOTHING else. Or do you have to at least need to go with a dual MC and proportioning valve? I wanted to understand the logic and mechanics behind the need to do that.

[agnes the dog]

I have not completed the project yet, but I have pretty much planned it out. I scored a 2000 Blazer 4x4 rear end, 3.73 posi with discs for $200. I'm probably going to keep the dropped axle and throw on the speedway 5 lug disc kit and be done. I have picked out a 67 Corvette manual disc/disc master cylinder - $42 new from rockauto.com. Got some 15" chrome 5x4.75 Chevelle SS wheels off of craigslist for $100, so I just need to throw it together. All in, I'm going to be around $600. I am still thinking about the Camaro subframe option, but I'm having a hard time bringing myself to cut the frame.

From what I have read, I really think that it's going to be most cost effective to find a dual master cylinder for the right application. Just find a disc/drum or disc/disc for what you are going to run. A prop valve is an option, but I'm going with a correct mc. Hope that helps.

JJ

[57chevyman]

i upgraded the MC to a dual disc/drum MC a year ago and used it for drum/drum and it worked fine. i just recently installed a front brake kit and while i was at it, i got a kit with 2" drop spindles. i would not install anything but new parts when it comes to brakes

[mark '87 930]

ok, cool, that makes sense. JJ, all that for $600 is a heck of a steal. Hope it all works for you. i guess the only item you need is a bracket to mount the MC. I like the idea of Frank's use of the CPP one with the Prop valve bolted to it underneath. I also do not want to do ANY frame cutting. I cried enough when i had to 'massage' the firewall to fit the tall valve covers for my fresh engine rebuild. This is why the 'everything bolts right up' option is what i like.

Frank, what year is that truck frame front end?

[57chevyman]

The frame is the original 1957 frame, modified to fit 1968 c10 front suspension. Done by previous owner 15-20 years ago. The inside edge of the frame that you can't see was boxed to make up for the frame that was cut away for the a-arm..