Tips on Removing GMC 305 V6 Engine + 3sp trans

[AngryPirate]

I'm planning on doing this in the near future and I was wondering if some of you could impart some knowledge on this.

What is the best place to attach the chain when using an engine lift? Removing the valve covers and attaching to somewhere on the head? Attaching to the intake manifold?

I believe I read that the rear engine mounts are incorporated into the bell housing which it autonomous to the engine and the trans, if I want to pull everything all at once are there any 'gotchas'?

Is it better to just remove the engine, trans and bell housing separately?

Any advice or pointers to resources are appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

[markeb01]

Here’s what I remember from removing my 305 V6 over 20 years ago:

There engines are huge, like over 800 pounds and physically large. Take a look at where the valve covers sit in relation to the firewall, compared to a small block V8. Note the notch next to the passenger side valve cover:




Use a chain rated for the weight. If in doubt get a bigger chain. Keep the chain short, so you have more lift clearance. I was using a chain fall instead of a cherry picker and couldn’t raise the engine high enough to clear the fenders, so I had to remove the wheels and roll the truck out from under the engine on the front brake drums.

Because of the size and weight of the engine, I would recommend removing the transmission from the bellhousing before lifting the engine. There shouldn’t be any issue leaving the bellhousing attached to the engine, and this will make it easier and perhaps safer since you can just lift the engine/bellhousing off the mounts once all four are unbolted from the chassis.

I don’t remember where I attached the chain, but it was no doubt either the intake manifold bolts or the head bolts. I wouldn’t dream of lifting one of these monsters with a carburetor plate. I'm sure I removed the radiator and probably the water pump before pulling the engine.

Good luck on your project.

Regards. Mark.

[Old Truck Man]

Crawl underneath and drop the driveshaft and remove the trans first. the bellhousing flywheel & clutch will need to come out with he engine. That beast is heavy so removing the trans first is worth the effort. Ive got to the point where I pull the front clip when changing engines. just makes the job much easier and you get to clean everything up better. Hook your lift chain where the engine will almost balance. let it be a little back heavy with the engine front tilted up a bit.

[AngryPirate]

Very helpful guys. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Sounds like it will be an adventure.

I'll take some pics and update as I pull it.

[slorio]

AngryPirate:
Funny you should ask. Just dropped in my new 351e over the fourth of July weekend. A bit of a red, white and blue celebration! See attached.

Recommendation to pull the front end was the one I went with. Not a lot of bolts and the wires on the firewall plug in. Once the fenders and the radiator are out the way, I used a 2000 lb lift on the 1000 lb setting (half of boom extended) and had no problem pulling engine, transmission and bell housing. Gave me a nice opportunity to clean and paint firewall and underside. I used two 3/8" grade 8 bolts threaded into bolt holes for the intake manifold with a chain and two washers on each. 2" x 2" board that you see gave me a bit of leverage to move the engine around as I nestled it back into place by myself.

Hope this helps.
Regards,
Steve
New Orleans

[AngryPirate]

Thanks Steve!

I think I may the front end removal thing since I have to do a bit of patch panel work on the fenders any how, as well as possibly swap out the cab.

Thanks for the pictures as well. They are helpful to visualize the process.

- Scott

[1963c-10]

I agree with the above post. Pulled the old 230 a few weeks ago with the front end on, its doable, but much easier with the front end off. I also have the same 2 ton lift and removing the front bumper and core support allows a lot more clearance room to get the lift in closer. I have used the same lift for my 348 and 427 big blocks with no issues also. If you have the time and a spare set of hands, the front ends are manageable. Austin and I had my front end off in an hour (two stubborn bolts and 1 trip with the grinder) and on the other truck.

[AngryPirate]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

I agree with the above post. Pulled the old 230 a few weeks ago with the front end on, its doable, but much easier with the front end off. I also have the same 2 ton lift and removing the front bumper and core support allows a lot more clearance room to get the lift in closer. I have used the same lift for my 348 and 427 big blocks with no issues also. If you have the time and a spare set of hands, the front ends are manageable. Austin and I had my front end off in an hour (two stubborn bolts and 1 trip with the grinder) and on the other truck.

Seems like this is the pro way to go. Thanks for the additional information.

I too believe I will be bringing my friends grinder and drill to the party. ;-)

[1963c-10]

Worse parts on removing an original front end in my opinion is the radiator to frame bolts (x2) and the lower outer fender to cab bolts. The rest normally come out pretty easy.

Other than those, you have two bolts at the inner fender to firewall, two upper fender bolts on the sides of the cab (you will have to remove the fender extensions), one inner fender to cab bolt per side, remove the auxiliary cover for the inner fender at the driver side steering column and the wiring at the fire wall, battery and starter. With a set of hands it can be done pretty quick. I also like to remove the front bumper and outer brackets.....just makes it nice to be able to walk around the front end without banging up your legs.