1967 Suburban build

[tblazin2k5]

So here's what I got, bought a 1968 Suburban that came with a parts 1967 parts truck. Well it turns out the parts truck is actually in better shape. I have titles for both of them so I've decided that I'm actually going to build the 67. The 68 runs and drives so I'm driving that in the meantime.

So far I have stripped the suspension from the frame and pulled the frame from under the truck.

The plan at this point is to clean up the frame and use porterbuilt extreme front and rear dropmembers with airbag suspension. I will have a few patch panels to take care of on the body and I need to figure out what front end I want to use. I go back and forth between a 67 front or a 72 style front. For power I plan on using an ls based engine, having trouble deciding that as well, backed up with a 4l80e. To make it stop I plan on using disc brakes all around. As for interior I want to keep it subtle with some nice interior panels, carpet and headliner. Seating I'm hoping to go with first and second row seats from a newer Suburban or Tahoe. Wheels I'm looking at a set of 22's or 20's. Paint I want to do the top in Chrysler's cool vanilla and on the bottom Toyota's sunset bronze mica.

I will upload pictures later today. I have posted a couple in a previous thread just gotta move them over here and I have a few more to add.

Any input on stuff I'm having trouble deciding as well as anything you see wrong with the plan, would be very appreciated and welcomed

[mud.man.rj]

Sounds like an interesting build, nice to have a parts truck too. I think it would be nice to use the 67/68 front, just a cleaner look to it but all in what a person likes, the rest of the ideas are very sound, waiting for more and pic's. Happy building.
Rick/Mudman.

[tblazin2k5]

This is the 68 that I'm driving daily. Pretty rough and the engine needs some work. Its an old worn out 350 only good thing about it is the edelbrock intake and carburetor and the thorley long tube headers

[tblazin2k5]

Here is a pic of the 67 right after it got dropped off. Yes it was actually a school bus.

[tblazin2k5]

Got the frame out. Hope to get all the lines and brackets stripped off this week and clean it really good with some oven cleaner.

[tblazin2k5]

[mud.man.rj]

So will you leave it school bus color or something else.

[tblazin2k5]

No I still want to use the sunset bronze mica on the bottom with the cool vanilla on top.

[mud.man.rj]

Oh right you mentioned that, way better choice, should really stand out.

[tblazin2k5]

I think it will make for a nice "classy" look.

[tblazin2k5]

This is how the frame is currently sitting next to the house and all the parts, except the rear end, that I will not be using. My question right now is, can I take out all the cross members on the frame right now since I plan to replace them all with tubular porterbuilt stuff when the funds allow.

[tblazin2k5]

Made some progress over the last couple nights. Got the rear floor out, back hatch and tailgate off, and went over the frame with some oven cleaner. I'm gonna have to do it again to really get it clean.

[tblazin2k5]

I'm going to look at this front clip next weekend. I'm not really set on one front style or another and the price is right on this one off a 69.

[tblazin2k5]

No huge progress or anything. Drove up and bought the front clip off a 69 that is in pretty good shape. Needs a patch on the lower front of one fender since it got smashed pretty good at one point but no rust holes or big dents. I'm going to take the hood to work and strip it down so I can get it perfectly straight and prime it. Then take the fenders in and get them taken care of. I have a lot of down time at the shop right now so I should be able to knock everything out pretty quick.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tblazin2k5

No huge progress or anything. Drove up and bought the front clip off a 69 that is in pretty good shape. Needs a patch on the lower front of one fender since it got smashed pretty good at one point but no rust holes or big dents. I'm going to take the hood to work and strip it down so I can get it perfectly straight and prime it. Then take the fenders in and get them taken care of. I have a lot of down time at the shop right now so I should be able to knock everything out pretty quick.

Sounds like you are making some progress on it. Keep us posted.

LockDoc

[tblazin2k5]

Yeah. Things are gonna be slow for awhile since everything costs money. I got the top of the hood stripped this morning and welded up a few little rust pin holes in one corner. Hopefully I can get some etch primer on it this week or next week. I think I'm gonna have to find someone to sandblast the underside of the hood, inside of my fenders and my core support.

[tblazin2k5]

Does anyone know of a decent media blaster on the central coast?

[tblazin2k5]

I haven't posted any progress in awhile, mostly because I haven't made much. Recently I started getting back on the project. I have been cleaning up all the frame crossmembers. Things have changed financially so I've decided to do more of a budget build. Tubular stuff was just a little too pricey for me. I've got some parts I need to get to make it a roller but for some reason I'm not able to start a thread in the classifieds section to find parts.

Here's the little bit of progress I've made. I actually have some note done but it's the most recent picture I have.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tblazin2k5

I haven't posted any progress in awhile, mostly because I haven't made much. Recently I started getting back on the project. I have been cleaning up all the frame crossmembers. Things have changed financially so I've decided to do more of a budget build. Tubular stuff was just a little too pricey for me. I've got some parts I need to get to make it a roller but for some reason I'm not able to start a thread in the classifieds section to find parts.

Here's the little bit of progress I've made. I actually have some note done but it's the most recent picture I have.

That stuff adds up fast, that's for sure. The reason you can't post in the classifieds is that you have to be a premium member to post any kind of ad. If you see a part for sale that you need you can buy it you just can't post a want to by, for sale, want to trade, or what's it worth post.

If you click on the word "Subscribe" in the menu bar above it will explain the different memberships. The reason they had to start requiring memberships is that they were starting to have a problem with people scamming members with no way to track them down.

LockDoc

[tblazin2k5]

That's what I figured. I'm glad they have taken extra precaution to protect forum members.

[tblazin2k5]

Since my plan has changed to using the stock trailing arms, if I can find a set, and the stock control arms but adding some lowering blocks and spindles and airbags all around some questions and concerns have come up for me. I also plan on using a step notch in the rear and possibly recessed buckets in my lower control arms. I have considered welding the rear bag mounts to the back of the axle if this will gain me a lot of drop. My goals have changed now, I don't expect to lay frame but can anyone tell me how low I can actually get? I know there are going to be some variables and I have tried to provide as much info as possible. If there is a thread feel free to direct me to it.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tblazin2k5

Since my plan has changed to using the stock trailing arms, if I can find a set, and the stock control arms but adding some lowering blocks and spindles and airbags all around some questions and concerns have come up for me. I also plan on using a step notch in the rear and possibly recessed buckets in my lower control arms. I have considered welding the rear bag mounts to the back of the axle if this will gain me a lot of drop. My goals have changed now, I don't expect to lay frame but can anyone tell me how low I can actually get? I know there are going to be some variables and I have tried to provide as much info as possible. If there is a thread feel free to direct me to it.

I haven't dropped one yet, so no info here. If you type the words "dropping a burb" into the Google search box at the top of this page, click on the circle in front of "67-72chevytrucks.com" and click on the "Google" button you will find some threads on the subject. Just make sure what you are reading pertains to your year of truck. The search will include all years.

LockDoc

[tblazin2k5]

No real progress lately as I've had to tear down my motorcycle and rebuild the engine. But on the upside the only thing I have left to clean on the frame is the rails, all crossmembers have been cleaned and painted. I also ordered a set of used NASCAR trailing arms last night. The price was right and they look practically new. The ones I got do not have the mono ball on the pivot end so there should be a little less modification to them. I know I'll have to do something at the axle end since there is a 1/4" difference in tube diameter but I'll cross that road later. I may just end up getting to put a 9" under it. One other update/question is I've found a set of wheels pretty cheap that I like but unfortunately they aren't the right lug pattern so I'd have to use adapters. The pattern is 5x4.75. The question is will they still tuck inside my wheel openings. They are 20x8.5 front with approximately 6" backspacing and 20x10 rear with approximately 7" backspacing. The wheels are niche m108 circuit, black with machined face. My price on them is $400.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tblazin2k5

No real progress lately as I've had to tear down my motorcycle and rebuild the engine. But on the upside the only thing I have left to clean on the frame is the rails, all crossmembers have been cleaned and painted. I also ordered a set of used NASCAR trailing arms last night. The price was right and they look practically new. The ones I got do not have the mono ball on the pivot end so there should be a little less modification to them. I know I'll have to do something at the axle end since there is a 1/4" difference in tube diameter but I'll cross that road later. I may just end up getting to put a 9" under it. One other update/question is I've found a set of wheels pretty cheap that I like but unfortunately they aren't the right lug pattern so I'd have to use adapters. The pattern is 5x4.75. The question is will they still tuck inside my wheel openings. They are 20x8.5 front with approximately 6" backspacing and 20x10 rear with approximately 7" backspacing. The wheels are niche m108 circuit, black with machined face. My price on them is $400.

It seems like something always gets in the way of progress.

Where did you order the trailing arms from?

I can't help on the wheels but maybe someone else is up on that stuff.... Seems like a lot of backspace but the adapters would make up part of it.

LockDoc

[tblazin2k5]

Muscle motorsports from Huntersville, NC. $250 shipped.