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Old 08-05-2003, 11:55 PM   #1
GMCrazy
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frame restoring

ive finally got the cab off my truck... all by myself. HA, that bi0tch was a little heavy. anyway's ive got another dillema that involves beautifing the crusty frame. im not that concerned with super show finish, but i do want a hard paint. is primer really neccesary since im just gonna get the surface rust off (very little bare metal)? and while i'm posting, is there anyone in or around southeast AL with a spare fleetside bed?
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:12 AM   #2
1971 Cheyenne
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Are you planning on taking all the suspension stuff off and going to the bare frame, or just derusting the rolling chassis and painting it. Decisions... I just put a product called POR 15 on my Frame. Some swear by it, and some hate it. Mine looks beautiful though! Some people use a regular paint though, epoxy primer, paint, or rustoleum

www.por15.com


PS. You might want to specify if you are looking for a longbed or shortbed on your bed.


Good luck!

'71
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:29 AM   #3
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Hey 71, I plan on using POR15 also. How did you prep it and did you brush or spray? Also did you use their flat chassis topcoat? And finally, how much paint did it take to do the frame?

I plan on sandblasting, and brushing two coats POR15, and 1-2 coats of their chassis topcoat. They told me 1 quart would be enough for 2 coats.
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:29 AM   #4
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Ive also used POR-15 and I found it live up to its reputation. I used it last summer on bumper mounts and its taken a beating and not a chip has come off. As long as you follow the directions and use the right prep chemicals it works like a charm. Im in the process of doing the rest of my frame in it now....
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:43 AM   #5
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I ended up spraying out my frame. It turned out very nice. I used just under a quart so I'm pretty sure a quart would be fine for you. That was just for the bare frame though, no suspension stuff. I haven't yet, but am planning on topcoating it in blackcoat, (for uv resistance) which is their gloss black topcoat. We'll see how it turns out. To prep it, I used their degreaser, "Marine Clean" (they say it's not necessary) Hosed it down, then used their metal prep/etcher "Metal ready" on it, then hosed it down. Make sure it is BONE dry before you put the POR 15 on. I had my frame sandblasted first, and I guess when you do this, the marine clean is not necessary. Just when you are starting with a oily, dirty frame you would want to do this.

I hope this helps!!!
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Last edited by 1971 Cheyenne; 08-06-2003 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 08-06-2003, 07:25 AM   #6
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So you sandblasted, then cleaned it then used metal ready? In that order?
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:26 AM   #7
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thanks for the info, esp. the website!
b.t.w. im lookin for a SWB bed
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Old 08-06-2003, 09:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70Chevy4x4Nut
So you sandblasted, then cleaned it then used metal ready? In that order?
Yes, that is exactly the order that I did it in! You probably already know this, but before you paint the por 15, go over the whole thing with a tack cloth to get all the dust and general crap off of the surface so you have a nice clean one to paint on. This took me about an hour to do, walking around and around....

Remember a good respirator!!! It really smells!

'71
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Old 08-06-2003, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1971 Cheyenne
Some people use a regular paint though, epoxy primer, paint, or rustoleum


'71
What is the problem with rustoleum?
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Old 08-06-2003, 10:33 PM   #10
70Chevy4x4Nut
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I've actually thought of using rustoleum. I have heard they have improved their line of paints. But I think I still lean toward POR15.
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Old 08-06-2003, 10:37 PM   #11
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That is what I used, I don't mind it. If i was going to do it again...or when i do it again I will get it powder coated.
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:16 PM   #12
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would there be anything wrong with using por15 as a primer then using a rustoleum top coat? it's just that por15's top coat is so expenisive for just a quart. or is there a need for a top coat at all?
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:19 PM   #13
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they said top coat is only needed for uv protection
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:27 PM   #14
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so would rustoleum serve that purpose as well as por15's topcoat?
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Old 08-06-2003, 11:39 PM   #15
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that one I really don't know. it may be a lot of work to add both.
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Old 08-07-2003, 12:03 AM   #16
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POR 15 reccomends that you use their "tie coat primer" over por 15, then you can paint over it in any paint you see fit. Whether this is atcually necessary or if they are just trying to push another of their products, I don't know.

Yes, the reason for the topcoat is for UV protection, as the POR isn't UV resistant. My actual frame probably won't see any sunlight, but the suspension stuff with probably see some, and I want the whole frame/suspension stuff to be in the same finish.

It is VERY expensive though! I bought all the prep stuff and the por 15, and the topcoat for my frame (it will probably also do about half of my suspension stuff) and it cost somewhere in the range of 250 bucks for it all!

'71

BTW: There is absolutely nothing wrong with rustoleum! Most people just consider it a lower quality finish. I'm sure some have had great results with it too though!
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Old 08-07-2003, 12:50 AM   #17
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sand blast it and then powdercoat it
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Old 08-07-2003, 07:28 AM   #18
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71, I was wondering how you thinned the por15 to spray. What did you use and what is the recommended ratio? What pressure did you use?
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Old 08-07-2003, 12:22 PM   #19
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Just to throw another product name out there; Zerorust

It's supposed to compare very favourably with Por-15 and the people on www.autobodystoreonline.com swear by it. (hopefully I got that web ID right.)

I haven't used any of these products yet so I can't really add any real-world opinion about anything.

Greg
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Old 08-07-2003, 12:56 PM   #20
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powder coat it !! you will thank me later. All the time and effort invested, I did that once. Now I just take it to the shop and 2 days later boom powder coated beauty. I know I took the easy way out, but my frame is beautiful. Good luck with your project. Landon
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Old 08-07-2003, 01:51 PM   #21
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how much did you shell out for that? either way, i havn't found anyone around here to do powder coating.

b.t.w. i live close to Dothan. Alabama in case anyone knows of a place
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Old 08-07-2003, 02:23 PM   #22
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I used Zerorust on my rear axle, the damn stuff is STILL soft after 2 months. Would never use it again.
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Old 08-07-2003, 02:39 PM   #23
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GMCrazy, I spent around $2000.00 for the job I got. That was the frame all the x members, both axles (complete) and all the engine brackets, and some other misc B/S.

the frame alone cost $700.00. but it was totally worth every dime !! :p My son is only 3 and he will be taking the truck I am building to school some day ! I want him to get all the ladys! So IMO it was worth it. But I am looking to the future and I want my truck to last another 30 years..
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Old 08-07-2003, 03:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by 70Chevy4x4Nut
71, I was wondering how you thinned the por15 to spray. What did you use and what is the recommended ratio? What pressure did you use?
I did not thin it at all. They say that the most you would want to thin it would be about 5%. To thin it, they say you must use their "POR 15 solvent" ( I would reccomend buying some anyway, makes cleanup easier). If I remember correctly though, it's pretty expensive for a thinner.

I used a devilbiss hvlp paint sprayer. It is a pretty nice gun and I would not reccomend using a gun that nice to shoot POR 15. It's WAY hard to clean out. I took my gun COMPLETELY apart to clean and spent about an hour doing this. I used a 1.6 tip I think and used devilbiss's reccomended psi, which I think is around the 22-23 mark. I am a complete novice at painting (my first attempt) So if any of you painting gurus wants to chip in here, please do!

hope this helps!

'71
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1971 Cheyenne 10 454/th400-Undergoing a full frame off resto.
1972 Chevy short/step 2wd, 350/th350
1983 M1009 CUCV Military K5 Blazer
1981 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 dually flatbed
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Old 08-07-2003, 03:46 PM   #25
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GMCrazy here you go. I don't know how far away but here you go. Good luck, and what ever you do it will look good. Landon



Custom Finishing, Inc.
Helena, AL
205.663.5860

Tru-Line Manufacturing, Inc.
Decatur, AL
256.350.1002
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