common repairs/upgrades to do while engine is out

[dante81_98]

I searched and couldn't really find any thread with this info so thought I would start one.

I have a 4.8 about to go into my 50 Chevy. What are the common things to repair, replace or upgrade while its out? Are there any sensors that go out that would be easier to do now instead of once its in? Gaskets? Common leaks to take care of? Stuff like that.

I intend on replacing the water pump while its out. Going to put a swivel water neck and tap the heater ports for some 90 degree fittings so I don't have to mess around with the inner fenders to much.

Thanks for your help,
Chad

[BR3W CITY]

Oil pump and pickup w o ring when swapping the oil pan anyway (which I imagine you'll be doing for the swap).

Waterpump gaskets. Clean the injectors and rail in seafoam, replace o-rings if needed.
If you think you want a cam, do it now while the engines out, and all the timing stuff is simple to get at. Its MUCH easier taking a crank pulley off when its on an engine stand.

[dante81_98]

Thanks. I am replacing the pan with the f-body one for a little more clearance. I will do the pump and o ring and will pull the injectors and rail to get them cleaned out.

I don't think I will be doing a cam. Don't feel the need. I am a low, slow and quiet kind of guy.

Any other "standard repairs" I should look out for?

Thanks,
Chad

[Matt Cramer]

Check the rear main seal, although if it's not leaking I would only replace it for a high mileage engine.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Matt Cramer

Check the rear main seal, although if it's not leaking I would only replace it for a high mileage engine.

Yes! Also as a note, you can get the rear cover, complete with seal,gasket, & bolts....for about what you would pay for the gasket & seal ? From the chevy dealer, the cover/ seal comes with a plastic sleeve to orient the seal lips properly (no fuss, no mess)! Just clean the rear of the block, the plastic cup "locates" the seal to the crankshaft? Just push the cover on, & add bolts...You can use the stock pan, as a tool to locate the bottom of the rear cover....pretty slick! While you are in there, you might replace the "barbell", as it does make the seal on the oil gallery? longhorn

[akdg87]

KNOCK SENSORS and harness to them.

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by dante81_98

Thanks. I am replacing the pan with the f-body one for a little more clearance. I will do the pump and o ring and will pull the injectors and rail to get them cleaned out.

I don't think I will be doing a cam. Don't feel the need. I am a low, slow and quiet kind of guy.

Any other "standard repairs" I should look out for?

Thanks,
Chad

I am doing the same swap, actually its a 5,3 but same enough, into my 1950. How many miles are on your motor? That will help determine what you should do. My engine had almost 200K so I was going to all the gaskets to prevent leaks. Unfortunately for me I found bad stuff when I opened my motor so its a full rebuild now.

I am running the truck oil pan. You probably only need the f-body pan if you plan to bag the truck and lay frame. Where you should be concerned about clearance is front to back if you aren't recessing your firewall. The truck accessories stick too far out and won't leave room for a fan. Some guys have done the pusher fan with mixed results. I am using GTO accessories which are closer to the block and share the same spacing as the f-body accessories.

[clinebarger]

Valve Springs.

[dante81_98]

Thanks for all the replies. The motor has 115K on it and came from a highly recommended and reviewed yard up in the northeast.

The engine and trans is just set in there for now to get them mocked up before we make some mounts. Its bagged and lays on the ground. It has the truck pan on it now and its just off the ground. I am going to put the F-body pan on just so I have some safety clearance.

I don't intend on recessing the firewall. I am going to mock up the radiator, fan and shroud this weekend and will see what I can come up with. It looks like there is enough room, but we will see.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Valve Springs.

Yes! one sharp old man I will, lay it down, how it goes....A bad set of valve springs, will "spoil" the sweetest overhaul, that you have done? longhorn

[dante81_98]

well it was close with the fan and shroud I had, but ultimately we needed to move the engine backa little. I cut the firewall out and mocked it up. Ended up moving the engine back a little further than was needed just to give some extra room. Need to find some headers that will work now. Need something that hugs pretty tight to the block. Trying to find some tbss manifolds. We will see what we can find that will fit.

[crazy longhorn]

If you want something that tucks tight to the block...Hooker streetrod shorties(LS). They don't dump center, like the gen I shorties....but about under the 3rd port? Nice build! Did you clip the front, or opt for a mustang II ? Longhorn

[dante81_98]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

If you want something that tucks tight to the block...Hooker streetrod shorties(LS). They don't dump center, like the gen I shorties....but about under the 3rd port? Nice build! Did you clip the front, or opt for a mustang II ? Longhorn

Thanks, I will check into those headers.

The suspension is all custom. We used the stock frame. The spindle and brakes are from a 95 Chevy pickup. The control arms and bag mounts are custom made. The steering is a power rack from a thunderbird.

[Matt Cramer]

If you don't need tube headers specifically, 2010 and later Camaro manifolds have a lot of clearance and a straight down exit. I'm running them on my '72 C10.

[dante81_98]

I will look into those too. I don't need tube headers. Factory manifolds will be fine for me.