Door seal issue?

[Robert Bergstrom]

I had the body shop install the door seals. I am happy with the gaps but the most I can adjust the door leaves a gap (see photos). Does it seem that the body shop put the seals in wrong? The gap is about the thick ness of the seal.

[litew8]

Gap - do you mean the door isn't shutting entirely? If yes, then that is not right.

[Robert Bergstrom]

Yes, the gap in the photo is the most I can shut the door with adjustment to the hinges.

[litew8]

Something isn't right. Are you certain they are the right seals? The striker plate might need adjusted.

[jordanblea]

I replaced my drivers side seals and for a week or two the door was hard to shut but they softened up after just a little while. Had to shut the door hard but now its good. Also looks like in the 4th picture the rubber door stop might be in the way...

[Robert Bergstrom]

Took the seals off and the door shuts perfect. I will order the clip on seals from GMC Paul's. Must have had the wrong ones.

[jordanblea]

Originally Posted by Robert Bergstrom

Took the seals off and the door shuts perfect. I will order the clip on seals from GMC Paul's. Must have had the wrong ones.

I find it odd that the door seals are having that much affect on it, I don't think you're going to be happy with the new seals either...how thick are these ones?

[jjdowney]

I bought the seals from GMC Paul's and they are causing the same issue. I cannot close the door enough. The latch does catch the striker plate but only just barely. Without the seals, the door closes fine, no gap. I'm thinking the door must not be aligned correctly because it seems that the door is too close to the body at the top rear. The gap there seems a lot smaller than on the bottom of the door. I don't think there is an easy way to fix the alignment issue, I think I need to shim the hinges or something to get it to sit correctly.

[jocko]

Unfortunately, this is common, and it's pretty frustrating. I used gmcpauls, great seals, but cause these problems like any new seal. My doors used to shut perfect, now they suck. Adjusted hinges outward, some striker adjustment. Still so-so. Best advice I've received is to lightly bend (wood block and hammer) the metal lip the seal clamps into in toward the interior. Take care near the a/c vent if you have a/c. Then leave it all in the sun, doors shut as good as you can get em. They will eventually get to where they need to be. I'm still waiting, but seein improvements. Gotta do a little more metal lip work. Yes, frustrating and it sucks.

One safety note, if you are slamming your door to stay shut, keep in mind that the doors and striker are under outward pressure. If you have a weak door latch return spring, accidentally tapping the door pull on the inside of the door with your knee can cause te door to pop open (while moving). Ask me how I know.... Ha.

[Nitis]

I ordered the kit from brothers

You have to shut them you can't let them close on their own. It's like there's two steps it will catch if you let it close on its own but if you push it it cams on over. And is slowly getting better. I didn't adjust anything either.

Are you sure you are pushing it all the way closed?

[jjdowney]

Nitis, that's what I'm seeing but I can only get my passenger side to catch on the first step. When I took the seals off, I can get it to the second step of the catch.

I think I'll be smacking my truck with something hard tonight.

[Nitis]

Originally Posted by jjdowney

Nitis, that's what I'm seeing but I can only get my passenger side to catch on the first step. When I took the seals off, I can get it to the second step of the catch.

I think I'll be smacking my truck with something hard tonight.

Don't do that paint looks too nice!

It reminds me of when we got our suburban new way back in 88 and they would close the same way

Good luck

[jjdowney]

Originally Posted by Nitis

Don't do that paint looks too nice!

It reminds me of when we got our suburban new way back in 88 and they would close the same way

Good luck

Not my truck in the pictures, I just hopped on the thread because I'm having the same issue. No one will notice if I beat the crap out of my truck. It is still very early in the refurb process. I agree though, the OP's truck looks great, hopefully there is an option for him without messing up the paint.

[Robert Bergstrom]

So was this "thick seal" issue found on the brand new trucks? Were the factory seals different and did all of the doors shut easily when delivered from the factory?

[FRANKENSTEINC10]

I put "new" seals from an 87 in mine. The first couple of days it was hard to get the door shut without having to push it all the way. But after about 5 days they have started to "learn" their new shape. Couldn't be happier

[Robert Bergstrom]

Put in the GMCPauls door seals and love them. Just push them on and trim where they butt up at the ends. They look real finished. I still have a problem with the door not shutting all the way (Yes, Jordanblea you are right). I just need to put in the latch and see if I can get it to shut. I must be going about this all wrong since it is so difficult shut the doors.

[GMCGrim]

I also ordered GMC Paul's push on door seals and boy they are great but experienced the same issue. I let the truck sit out in the hot summer sun for hours and several times of doing that the new rubber is starting to relax to the point that I don't have to slam the door.

The passenger side was worse than the drivers but 95degree sun really helped.

[Hawghauler]

I put mine in in winter and had to slam the door to even get them to close. Now in the summer heat, they close alot better. I would recommend anyone doing this to do it in the summer heat.

[Robert Bergstrom]

Yes, that was what I was thinking about last night. Since my truck is not on wheels yet I may get a hair dryer or a heat gun to soften up the rubber seal and close the door so they compress and form to the door. I just don't want to heat them too high. Makes you wonder how they did this at the factory (make the doors shut correctly). The factory either used much softer seals or somehow the doors shut when they were installed.

[Classic Heartbeat]

For the guys that are using the push-on seals. Wipe the seals down several times with "Old School" Armorall. You will be amazed how that will help you close the doors. Also are you using Genuine GM door bumpers, or reproductions? If reproductions put them in a sling shot and shoot them as far away as possible, then replace them with Genuine GM. The reproductions are hard as a rock and Genuine GM are soft. WES

[thelonerife]

Also if you already have your trim on and your slamming the door be mindful if the trim clips that have nut/bolt type fasteners on the inner door edge. You can chip your paint on your door jamb if your not careful. I trimmed mine after the fact.

[Robert Bergstrom]

Thanks, good advice.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Makes you wonder how they did this at the factory (make the doors shut correctly).

The factory uses talcum powder or chalk on the seals. The biggest problem you are having is how "sticky" the seals are. The door can't slip past it to seat an the seal doesn't slip on the inside of the bulb. WES

[litew8]

We used Precision seals on mine and did not encounter this trouble.

[GMCGrim]

As far as what they did at the factory I'm thinking the composition of the rubber could have been different 40+ years ago. Is this new stuff even made the same as it was then? Without getting to scientific I would say the rubber compounds used on these trucks at the factory were naturally softer than the ones used today.