Trick to removing inner tie rod on M2 rack?

[Jemo]

I need to put a spacer on my rack because the tie rods aren't long enough to reach the wheel. I've been trying to remove the inner tie rod from under the truck, laying on my back.....impossibly tight. I can only jack the truck up so high so I don't have much leverage. Is it all muscle or is there something I'm not doing?

[Nordic]

Hope this helps




Now to get the inner tie rod off, we have to remove the steering bellow (which you can see in the picture above). The bellows are usually held on by metal tie-wraps (screw in type) or plastic ones. Remove using the proper tool (either a screwdriver or wire cutters). Pull the bellow off.
7. The last part is removing the inner tie rod. For this job, we need a special inner tie rod removal tool. Mine looks like this:
8. The way it works is quite simple. You pick the appropriate size wrench fitting (mine is 1 7/16”), place the fitting inside the tube, like so:
9. Then, you place the large tube over the inner tie rod so that the inner tie rod threads are actually passing through the middle of the tube. See how big the hole is in the middle? Secure head of the tie rod remover onto the head of the inner tie rod (which is actually a square, made for this purpose) and unthread the inner tie rod. Simple as that. Look below for a picture.
Part II: Installation of new tie rods
1. Before putting the new inner on, verify that it is the same length as the original. Install is simply the reverse of removal. Thread the new inner in to the steering rack by hand, then using the tool; tighten it as much as possible.
2. Slip the steering bellow over the inner tie rod and secure it back into place using new tie-wraps or re-using the metal ones. Slide the jam nut back on.
3. Now we can put the new outer tie rod back on. Thread it back on the number of revolutions needed to remove the old tie rod (this is why you had to count and write it down). Ideally, this should keep the alignment very close to what it was before.
4. Tighten the jam nut onto the other tie rod end. Remember, to tighten the jam nut, we are actually rotating the jam nut counter-clockwise, to press it back onto the outer tie rod end.
5. Verify that your steering wheel is straight (12 o’clock position, and I bet it isn’t straight), correct it as needed. Now, connect the outer tie rod to the spindle. Remember, the outer tie rod comes up through the spindle, not down (see pictures during removal step).
6. Place the new castle nut on and torque to 40 ft-lbs. Drop in a new cotter pin and you are good to go! If you could not get the castle nut to line up with the cotter pin hole after the initial 40 ft-lb torque, tighten the nut further until it does line up (usually just requires a ¼ turn).
http://www.fiveohinfo.com/howto/repa...odytierods.pdf

[fisherman420]

Assuming you don't have the removal tool.....If you have a welder and a descent impact or even a breaking bar you can weld the end of the tie rod closest to the rack to the tie rod shaft (after removing the boot of course) then weld the nut on the outermost part of the threaded shaft, let the welds cool a bit then it should come right off with impact or breaking bar

[_Ogre]

all muscle.

i assume that you are trying to get the end of the rack off to install the extension piece in the new rack
i had to replace my mustII rack this spring the rebuilt rack had the end loctited on
with the rack in a vise, it took two of us with an 18'' crescent wrench to break the end loose
it took full strength to unscrew the whole way and it is long and fine threaded
there is no way we could have done it on a vehicle

i don't remember the original rack being this hard to get apart
the new rack squeaked and squealed when unthreading the end
i figured i had ruined the rack by the time i got it apart, 4000 miles says it's fine

[Speedbumpauto]

They make extended length outer ends for that set up just for problems like yours and Speedway sells them for about $30. If their extra length would fit your parameters, it seems to me a lot easier way to go. Just sayin........

[Jemo]

lots of great ideas! I didn't know there was a special tool for it but just looked online and see them for $40. A lot cheaper than what I was thinking about doing....having it towed to a shop. I'll check out the Speedway outers too. Thanks all for your help.

Should I have to extend both sides or just the drivers? The other side appears to reach fine but the extension kit came with two extensions.

[mr48chev]

Check with Autozone or O'Reilly's to see if they have the needed tool on their rental/loaner program. I think you can check Autozones list on the web. I did that with a Ridge Reamer that I needed to cut the ridge out of one cylinder to replace a broken piston the other day. You pay for it, take it home and use it and take it back in good condition and get your money back. Works great for tools you might use only once every two or three years.

I'm not sure this one will work but it is the one Autozone shows in their loaner program http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=552232_0_0_

[Jemo]

Thanks guys. They have the tool at Autozone so I'll give it a try this weekend.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Jemo

Should I have to extend both sides or just the drivers? The other side appears to reach fine but the extension kit came with two extensions.

the correct way is to extend the rack not the tie rod end, the rack extension goes on the passenger side
extending only the tie rod end may give you bump steer