Should I replace my fuel pump or get a shop to do it?

[In The Ten Ring]

I jacked up my truck today and really took stock. I am going to replace the entire fuel system but I've heard that mechanical fuel pump is hard to do alone. I think I am just going to leave it on and (if it works) drive to a shop or a forum member with a lift and get it off then.

What say you guys?

*If a forum member wants, I can pay for their time or buy beer, dinner, etc.

[FlameOut]

Mechanical fuel pumps are a piece of cake to replace. Just two bolts and fuel lines. Just manually turn the engine over so the cam allows the fuel pump push rod is in its retracted position. Makes it a little easier. If you were closer, I'd do it for you

[leddzepp]

If you can pump gas into your truck you can change the fuel pump.

[tcrist]

Once you do it you will see how easy it really is. Anything is intimidating the first time you do it. If you do not feel comfortable about it at all, you might want to have someone that has done it before come over and watch/ explain.

I usually replace the back plate gasket at the same time. I figure that you are there already anyway.

[fastlane]

An engine builder I know puts grease on the engine side of the pushrod so it don't fall out, well... so it falls out really slow!

[elimontfort]

Make sure like flameout said that you make sure the pushrod is up. There is also a bolt you can pull out that is on the front of the block where the pushrod is. If you get a longer bolt you can put it in and it will keep the rod up. If the rod falls down while you are tighting the pump down you can bend it. Had a nova in high school and did this to it. Took me two fuel pumps to realize I bent the rod. Had to cut a notch in the rod and pry it out of the block.

[68350]

They are really easy to do, should take half an hour tops. Just make sure u get fuel pump rod pushed up when you put new fuel pump in. And clean gasket surface really well so new gasket doesn't leak. I always put a little rtv high temp on gasket.

[In The Ten Ring]

OK so how, exactly, do I replace the fuel pump?

So I can turn the crankshaft.....how do I know when the rod is retracted?

What bolt allows me to put in a longer one to hold the rod back?

How is this video?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6UGEpgOUqg

[Lee H]

The service manual has a detailed procedure for changing the the fuel pump.

[faribran]

Yes, this is a good video. You should be able to do this.

[elimontfort]

There are two holes in the passenger side front of the engine. The top bolt hole will align with the fuel pump push rod and will have a 3/8" x 3/4" bolt in it.
This bolt needs to be removed and a longer 3/8" bolt installed in its place.
The longer bolt is to gently hold the fuel pump push rod in the retracted position- pushed in towards to center of the engine.
The camshaft has a cam on it that causes the push rod to move in and out- it is what makes the pump, "pump". This cam needs to be positioned in such a way that the rod is furthest back, away from the pump. While this isn't absolutely necessary (I'd try it first with out rotating the engine), it can make installing the pump a little easier.
So, with the longer bolt in the upper hole, carefully tighten the bolt until it contacts and holds the push rod from sliding back out against the spacer plate, remember just finger tigth or you'll bend and or nick the push rod.
Remove the fuel lines, plug them to prevent dirt from entering.
Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts, then the pump.
Clean all the way around the fuel pump hole in the spacer.
If for some reason the hole in the front of the block can not be accessed, an alternative to this is to remove the spacer plate, remove the push rod and put some heavy grease on the cam end of the push rod. This grease will (for a while) hold the push rod to the cam in the retracted position. Reinstall the spacer plate, use a new gasket or RTV to seal it. If (more like when) the push rod slides away from the cam, you can re-stick it a few times before the grease quits working.
With the gasket previously stuck to the fuel pump (use RTV or rubber cement) and the ports and fittings plugged so no dirt can enter, insert the fuel pump arm into the hole in the spacer plate. It helps to start the arm into the hole turned slightly clockwise from straight up, then rotate the pump and arm counter clockwise as you insert it. This will let the arm get in front of the push rod and will start the pump arm to compress if the cam on the camshaft is causing the push rod to be out more than if it was on the lowest part of the cam.
Once the pump arm is in position, you'll have to push against the pump's return spring pressure to get the pump's mounting holes close enough to the spacer to start the bolts. If you are unable to do this, you may need to rotate the engine a bit to let the fuel pump cam retract the push rod. BEFORE you do this, you will need to loosen the bolt holding the push rod in position so the push rod can move.
Once the fuel pump mounting bolts are started, tighten them evenly (one side then the other) until the pump meets the spacer.
DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt holding the push rod. Replace the original bolt into the same hole, with a little sealer on the threads.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by elimontfort

There are two holes in the passenger side front of the engine. The top bolt hole will align with the fuel pump push rod and will have a 3/8" x 3/4" bolt in it.
This bolt needs to be removed and a longer 3/8" bolt installed in its place.
The longer bolt is to gently hold the fuel pump push rod in the retracted position- pushed in towards to center of the engine.
The camshaft has a cam on it that causes the push rod to move in and out- it is what makes the pump, "pump". This cam needs to be positioned in such a way that the rod is furthest back, away from the pump. While this isn't absolutely necessary (I'd try it first with out rotating the engine), it can make installing the pump a little easier.
So, with the longer bolt in the upper hole, carefully tighten the bolt until it contacts and holds the push rod from sliding back out against the spacer plate, remember just finger tigth or you'll bend and or nick the push rod.
Remove the fuel lines, plug them to prevent dirt from entering.
Remove the fuel pump mounting bolts, then the pump.
Clean all the way around the fuel pump hole in the spacer.
If for some reason the hole in the front of the block can not be accessed, an alternative to this is to remove the spacer plate, remove the push rod and put some heavy grease on the cam end of the push rod. This grease will (for a while) hold the push rod to the cam in the retracted position. Reinstall the spacer plate, use a new gasket or RTV to seal it. If (more like when) the push rod slides away from the cam, you can re-stick it a few times before the grease quits working.
With the gasket previously stuck to the fuel pump (use RTV or rubber cement) and the ports and fittings plugged so no dirt can enter, insert the fuel pump arm into the hole in the spacer plate. It helps to start the arm into the hole turned slightly clockwise from straight up, then rotate the pump and arm counter clockwise as you insert it. This will let the arm get in front of the push rod and will start the pump arm to compress if the cam on the camshaft is causing the push rod to be out more than if it was on the lowest part of the cam.
Once the pump arm is in position, you'll have to push against the pump's return spring pressure to get the pump's mounting holes close enough to the spacer to start the bolts. If you are unable to do this, you may need to rotate the engine a bit to let the fuel pump cam retract the push rod. BEFORE you do this, you will need to loosen the bolt holding the push rod in position so the push rod can move.
Once the fuel pump mounting bolts are started, tighten them evenly (one side then the other) until the pump meets the spacer.
DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt holding the push rod. Replace the original bolt into the same hole, with a little sealer on the threads.

Now that's some detailed help, thanks. ONE OR TWO QUESTIONS

1). How do I know my push rod is all the way up?

2). Can I remove the old pump first and then rotate the crankshaft until the rod retracts fully?

[junkmandan3]

Your questions are so basic, I'd advise you pay to have somebody do it .

[litew8]

It's been a long time, but I think you'll know it's right if it seats up against the block. That video looks ok.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by junkmandan3

Your questions are so basic, I'd advise you pay to have somebody do it .

PM sent.

[tcrist]

Check out this video, sorry, same video that was posted above while I was looking it up.

Terry

[litew8]

Just do it. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/rep...96b43f8038ed16

[truckster]

It's not a really hard job, but I sense you lack the confidence to do it. I think you can, but if you know someone handy with a wrench, I'd have them help you, but let YOU do it. That's the way you gain confidence.

And you always have your brothers (and sisters) here on the board to turn to if you need us.

[In The Ten Ring]

I wouldn't say "confidence" more like I've had enough experience to know that it's better to learn as much as one can before doing something new.

A member above mentioned the push rod jamming in the downward position and that's something that could cause me major problems. The truck isn't mobile and I'm rather alone on this deal. None of my friends are into vehicles and none own anything remotely as old as this. My dad isn't in the kind of health needed to help me with it. I also don't fancy bringing a mechanic into my garage....that's a good way to get one's garage broken into later. (At least around here as drugs are a huge problem and breakins are common).

I appreciate all the advice which is why I joined this forum.

What I really need to know is what I asked above.

1). How does one know the position of the push rod without removing the pump first?

2). (Follow on question). Could I simply remove the pump and then turn the shaft to retract the rod into its most retracted position?

If the answer to either is "no" then please explain why.

[wreckedchevy]

yes you can remove the old pump first and then turn the engine over until the rod is in all the way you'll just have to keep it pushed in with your finger as you turn the motor over with a ratchet. being as I'm still unemployed and have more time on my hands than I'd like feel free to give me a call and I can walk you threw it tomorrow as well. I think every fuel pump I've ever changed was in a parking lot or on the side of the road they tend to go out in the worst places and really are easy to replace

[JCD]

I learned a trick years ago to make sure the pump lever is under the rod.
Take an old hacksaw blade, tongue depressor, anything thin and ridged.
Push the rod up, hold it up in place with the blade.
And as you put the pump on, slide the blade out the top over the pump.

Anybody else ever do that?

J.

[engineer_gregh]

Yeap, I always use a hacksaw blade. I never knew you could rotate the engine and that the rod would stay up on its own if it were in the retracted position.

[Ironhorse]

I've used a hack saw blade or long skinny screw driver many times to hold back the fuel pump rod. Just slowly remove the hack saw blade/screw driver as you insert and rotate upwards on the fuel pump being sure the pump arm is "under" the pump rod. Insert and finger tighten the mount bolts. I also use RTV on the pump housing with the gasket. Allow the RTV to "tack" some before installing the gasket.

I also have always packed the cavity of the fuel pump housing with grease as an old mechanic years ago told me GM fuel pumps were prone to not receiving enough oil to lubricate the pump arm after installed.

Anyone else do the grease in the fuel pump housing trick?

[70's luvr]

I just did it last week. Did it all from underneath as was difficult from the top with the AC pump there. Without that it would be a breeze. I used grease to hold the rod up and bumped the motor over so it was retracted in the block

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

I've used a hack saw blade or long skinny screw driver many times to hold back the fuel pump rod. Just slowly remove the hack saw blade/screw driver as you insert and rotate upwards on the fuel pump being sure the pump arm is "under" the pump rod. Insert and finger tighten the mount bolts. I also use RTV on the pump housing with the gasket. Allow the RTV to "tack" some before installing the gasket.

I also have always packed the cavity of the fuel pump housing with grease as an old mechanic years ago told me GM fuel pumps were prone to not receiving enough oil to lubricate the pump arm after installed.

Anyone else do the grease in the fuel pump housing trick?

Yes, I have used grease. I just used about a spoonful though, not packed full. It can also help to jack up the right side of the vehicle so gravity has less to work with on that pump rod.