help with steering wheel assembly

[64tantruck]

Can somone help with steering column assembly
Questions.
Other then the turnsignal lever, is there anything
Else that goes in before the wheel is put on.
The steerng shaft in the steering tube has a lot
Of slop or wiggle room.
Is there a bushing ???
Any parts for the horn button??
Truck came with aftermarket wheel, trying
To return to stock.

[jtrichard]

your upper bearing and horn contact are missing

[64tantruck]

Are both if these parts avaible afrermarket?
Its a 61

Thanks
Glenn

[1963c-10]

Yes, most of the catalog vendors have them

[1963c-10]

Your column looks never though, 60-62 had different canceling cams. Yours has the 63-66 style cam. Upper column bearing is the same though

[Andice]

You will need the turn signal cancel ring that attaches to the back side of the stock steering wheel if you don't already have one. These, too, may be year model specific.

[64tantruck]

Thanks all for the info. I am looking at the LMC catalog. They show the (34-0761) cancelling plate for 60-66 It looks like I also need (34-0405) horn bushing.
They show a (34-0848) Lower bearing steering column. is this the correct one?

Glenn

[Andice]

I don't know much about the lower column bearing since I did not replace mine. On GMC at least, the upper bearing and horn contact ring were integral to the NOS turn signal switch that I bought. All one piece.

[AcampoDave]

The lower bearing is important too. Look for it above the spring where the column rod exits the column tube under the hood. Check it for slop by giving the rod a good shaking. It that bearing goes bad the race will become a knife slowly slicing the column rod in two. I have seen one actually snap.

[Lugnutz65]

I am guessing that your column is like my 1965 column.
Here are a few pics during my rebuild. They sell new lower bearings or you maybe can rebuild yours.

To rebuild the lower bearing, make a paper cone to keep the balls in place. Apply lots of bearing grease and then insert the other race, then the felt washer and finally the retainer clip.

[Cooper197]

your aftermarket wheel may have the turn signal cancel cam screwed onto the back of it. I know the Grant kit on my truck requires the factory cancel cam, it's just two screws.

[64tantruck]

Thanks all.

Lugnutz
I understand now. The rod slid downto the steering box when i did the power steering upgrade. At the time i wrapped plastic bag around the end to keep grease from getting everywhere. Ill bet the bearing slid down the steering shaft. Ill take a look this weekend.

Thanks

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by 64tantruck

Ill bet the bearing slid down the steering shaft. Ill take a look this weekend.

There is the solid steering mast and 2 sleeves. The inner most sleeve moves the shifter linkage and the outer sleeve is a cover protecting it from the outside world. The lower bearing fits inside the end of the outer sleeve. It cannot slide off. The 2 bolts keep it locked in place. The next to last photo shows the bolts (I am compulsive, so I always put bolts back where they live so I can remember how to reassemble).

The grease makes it hard to see everything, but to remove the lower bearing from the outer sleeve, you must remove those 2 bolts. There is also a clamp that encircles the lower end of the mast sleeve that maintains squeezes the mast sleeve around the lower bearing.

[Lugnutz65]

These photos show things after cleaning. The sleeve in the middle of the first photo shows the slots where the bolts go though to secure the lower bearing. You can see the lower clamp in the last photo. It has 2 holes for the bolts as well, so the bearing goes into the end, then the clamp goes on, then the 2 bolts last.

[Andice]

It looks like the lower bearing can not be replaced without removing the entire steering shaft - is that correct? Would a grease zerk fit into one of those two bolt holes in the bearing housing to allow for lubricating the bearings?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Andice

It looks like the lower bearing can not be replaced without removing the entire steering shaft - is that correct? Would a grease zerk fit into one of those two bolt holes in the bearing housing to allow for lubricating the bearings?

A zerk fitting won't help since the bolt holes do not communicate to any area that gets grease (IIRC). You could remove the inner and outer sleeve as a unit, replace the lower bearing and then put it back without removing the steering mast from the steering gear box. I am saying all this from memory, but anyone out there with more experience, please chime in.

[AcampoDave]

When I did my lower bearing I jacked up the front of the truck and slid the whole rod out under the bumper and changed the bearing with the tube in place, don't remember if I had to pull the gearbox too, but I do remember it being easy.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

When I did my lower bearing I jacked up the front of the truck and slid the whole rod out under the bumper and changed the bearing with the tube in place, don't remember if I had to pull the gearbox too, but I do remember it being easy.

That's actually very clever! I think if you can get the truck up high enough, then that's the way to go. For me, I had everything apart anyway. Your way is best if you just want to inspect, rebuild or replace and have the truck back on the road the same day. Thanks for the advice.