Flaring brake lines . . . need advice (pictures inside)

[siggyfreud]

Hey guys,

Been practicing flaring brake lines. Using Summit's bulk alloy coil line which seems nice to work with. I have never done this before, so just been watching Youtube and reading.

Here is the tool I'm using: Amazon.com: OTC 6502 Master Brake Flaring Tool...
Hoping it's not too cheap to give good results. Would have preferred a hyrdaulic tool, but got that as a wedding gift so would like to use it if possible.

In any case, I have tried about 10 flares, and some seem to come out OK, but others I just can't tell. I'm at the point where I need to make about a 3" line to go between the rear diff split, and the first soft line.

Here is how my ends are coming out (btw line is sticking out of the holder so far only for picture purposes):







Not sure if these would seal well or not to be honest, but I don't want to take any chances. Any advice would be welcomed. My process is as follows:

1. Cut the line
2. File it flush using a file and back side of mounting tool
3. De-bur the inside
4. Lightly chamfer the outside on my bench grinder (just to make it smooth and very slightly tapered.
5. Flip the mounting tool, have brake line stick out to bottom ring of die.
6. Insert die with a bit of brake fluid, press it in, trying to get it going straight down.
7. Remove die, press tapered bit in.
8. Done.

Most of the time, the resulting hole after using the die isn't 100% centered, or 100% round, but a tad bit oblong, if that makes sense.

Any/all help is appreciated.

Thanks.

[vidman]

They look OK to me and don,t forget your nuts..

[siggyfreud]

I guess what I am concerned about is the unevenness looking at the tip. Here is another I just did:









Earlier one:




Not sure how this looks either:







Perhaps I'm looking for too much perfection, but given that it's for the brake system I want to ensure it's right .

Thanks!

[siggyfreud]

After doing one more I noticed the bevels are always in two locations, and they coorespond with the caps in the holding tool:



This normal?

[vidman]

I would not worry about it. I have 30 or 40 pre flared pieces of brake line out in the shop that have marks like that. If you had a 300.00 flaring tool they would look a little better, just make sure you keep your die nice and tight and they will work fine for ya..

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by vidman

I would not worry about it. I have 30 or 40 pre flared pieces of brake line out in the shop that have marks like that. If you had a 300.00 flaring tool they would look a little better, just make sure you keep your die nice and tight and they will work fine for ya..

Okay so the prefabbed ones also have little bevels at the top. Just to be clear, I'm not talking about the marks on the sides of the tubing, but up at the flare part.



I noticed that if I press a little less on the tapered part they bevels are reduced.

[Snailed]

It does look like you are cranking down on the cone pretty hard. That line is so soft that those imperfections won't give you any trouble though. Try tightening one onto a fitting then take it off and you'll see how everything sort of squishes back in line as long as it starts pretty centered like yours are. And yes that is normal. The material the would typically get formed into the upper edge is flowing into the gap on the tool. Ease up a little.

BTW -You can get 3/16" copper nickle line for about half of what Summit sells it for on eBay from eastcoastautopart. I have bought a half dozen rolls from them with no problems.

[chevy_mike]

It almost looks like you are cranking down too much with the second step (bevel tip). I just did some with this new line (versus the normal steel line) and found you need much less pressure then the steel line. I really like this copper nickle stuff and will use it for all my line needs.

Also, I found using a cheap 45* countersinking bit makes for a good internal bevel of the line. Once I started using that, is make the hole more even after the second step bevel.

[siggyfreud]

Thanks guys. Looks like I'm getting better ends by easing up a bit.

See any issues so far with how I've run the lines. I'd like to get it a bit tighter to the diff, as so far I've only hand-bent this into a rough fit. Since this material is softer I wanted to use all rubber isolators, so I plan to tack on brackets so I can use them on the rear, as opposed to using welded on metal on metal brackets.

[bs46488]

I messed around with a flare tool a little. I had a cheap cheap hand flare tool and it was garbage. I upgraded to an average hand flare tool and had better results.

I also found that if I beveled both the inside and outside of the tube I got better results.

[cg285]

the flares look pretty rough. however i've never used the hi-zoot, double get back brake line. try it on a stick of normal steel line and see if there is a difference.

[71Dragtruck]

Yours almost look like a single flare not a double? If they they are double, as mentioned above you may be overdoing it on that step.

[desertnick69]

I have a flare tool that is some 50 yrs old and it does not make that material deform that much, my nephew just picked up an inexpensive one and his look worst then your, his i would note use on the lawn mower. The first ones i did and even after a few yrs doing this you have a bad day.