Time for rust proofing. Couple questions first

[yossarian19]

I'm not going to spend the money on a full teardown paint job right now. I'm just going to strip the paint in places I can see rust coming through, prime it & leave it till later. Strictly a hold-it-off sort of thing.
That said...

Knotted wire cup wheel on the grinder or paint stripper wheel, and why?

Which primer am I looking for? I like Rustoleum but am bewildered at the choices. Self etching, clean metal primer (for lightly rusted), rusty metal (for heavily rusted), automotive, sandable, high filler, etc...

If I'm over thinking this and just need to put the brush on the grinder & shoot (whatever) on it, let me know.

[Dan in Pasadena]

"Hold it off" for how long? If it's light surface rust and you want to hold it off for say 2-3 years I've had excellent results with hand sanding the rust OFF and covering with rattle can Rustoleum Satin finish coat, not primer. Initially I used Duplicolor self etching and it was a total failure. Rust returned in 3-4 months.

If it's cancer, there's no viable option than cutting it out and welding in replacement sheet metal.

[Kim57]

I find the clean and strip discs do a great job of removing rust.
For the best protection I would use epoxy primer over the metal.
You can get California compliant epoxy at local auto paint stores or buy it on line.
SPI makes a good one for us DIYers.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Rust Never Sleeps. 3m purple shredded wheat discs in 80 grit take of paint pretty fast as well as surface rust. I used the POR system for heavy rust area on the frame and springs. I etch primed (Nason product), the use a high build urethane primer (Evercoat Uro-Fill). Primer is not intended as a finish, it is water porous and will allow water in, and condensation to form underneath, creating more rust issue. If you want the primer look, you will need to use a 40% satin or flat sealer and top coat designed as a finish coat.

[Donaldo]

Primers are not a rust cure or preventative, they are porous, which is one of the reasons paint sticks if applied properly. You should use some form of sealant over the primer, or a product that claims to do both, prime and seal.

[yossarian19]

Good info on primers.
At this point, my plan is to wire wheel the surface stuff down to bare metal and shoot a gray Rustoleum stops-rust top coat on it (not primer). Cut out the cancerous bit with a grinder, weld in a new patch panel & give it the same paint. Year after next, maybe, I'll talk more seriously to a body shop and have them tear it all down, bang it out and paint it for real.
Thanks for the help folks.

[mgchevyparts]

Don't fall for the "Rustoleum" claims, it's just paint. There is no paint that stops rust in it's self. You have to strip to bare metal and finish properly. Cleaning it up will buy you a little time before it needs to be done correctly.

[69l46vert]

I second the recommendation for epoxy. It's tenacious. can be used as a sealer if you thin it with a good urethane reducer. I was using Kirker's Enduro Prime but have been trying out SummitRacing's product lately with good results. Many brands out there now. Myself, I'm not a fan of Por15 buts lots of folks really like it.

[1project2many]

Methinks folks in Cali have a different perspective on rust.

The trick to stopping rust is to prevent oxygen and/or moisture from getting to metal. High ph (caustic) cleaners can help reduce very scaly rust. Phosphoric acid (sold as "rust converter") changes rust to a more stable form of iron oxide. Needle scaler is fastest method I've found to remove scaly rust from thick metal surfaces. On frames and undercarriages I've had great luck with daily drivers by removing heavy rust, coating with very heavy Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer, and getting a single stage industrial urethane paint on top. Final step in this area is an oil coat for a daily.

[yossarian19]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Methinks folks in Cali have a different perspective on rust.

Very true.
It won't take anything special for me to keep things from getting worse over the next few years. Down the road a little bit, I'll tear it all down and do it right. This just isn't the moment, with my son due in a week and a down payment coming up. POR15, top coat & rubber under coat are all part of the plan - just not in 2014 (or, probably 15)

[1project2many]

This just isn't the moment, with my son due in a week and a down payment coming up. POR15, top coat & rubber under coat are all part of the plan - just not in 2014 (or, probably 15)

Definitely. You'll have plenty to spend money on with a little one around.

[Donaldo]

""Methinks folks in Cali have a different perspective on rust.""

Absolutely ! I live within site of the big pond and EVERYTHING rusts, except aluminum - it dissolves.

But anywhere, metal needs to be clean, rust free, and properly sealed or it is going to deteriorate all over again.

It costs less to do it right the first time -