Rear drums removal on a 67 C50

[jumpsoffrock]

Here are some pictures. How does this drum come off? Do I need to remove those bolts in the back? Do I need to remove the axle?


Also, Has anybody ever seen wheels like mine? I can't seem to find anything about Accuride 25647's? What are these things.

And by the way, they still say RH5º on the back, and my front wheels DO NOT say Accuride or anything, they just have whats on the "back" part of the wheel.

[john]

Yes you need to pull the axles and wheel brg's to remove the drum. Put a drain tub under the housing to catch the oil from the hub.

[jumpsoffrock]

Holy crap! I have to pull the wheel bearings out?!? Wow. Are they pressed in or should they just fall out? I know the axles come out easily, I just took them out this summer.

Would you happen to know how to remove the front drums?


Thank you very much.

[john]

Here are some service manuals that should have what you need.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5781194

[colgad]

Not pressed in. Big Nut with a retaining locking ring. Get a friend to help lift the drum your back will thank you.

[split]

I have the same on a ~70 C50.
I have looked through the manual, but I really do not want to pull the axles if I do not need to. Someone that has done this could save me a lot of time... I'm sure

I'm just trying to replace the rear brake cylinders. I'm not even sure I can get parts.

[greywuuf]

Depends on what you mean by "pull the axles" ... The axle shafts HAVE to come out to remove the drum. You do not have to remover the "rear axle" assy. From the truck. Behind the axle flange there is a large nut with a lock tab washer that adjust your bearing preload and holds the hub/brake drum on. Also the master cylinder is activated by the brake pedal, you probably are trying to get to the "slave" or wheel cylinders.

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

Yes you will have to pull the axles all the way out. Remove the bearing retaining nuts, the outer bearing will come out. Then you can remove the drum, the inner bearing will be held in by the grease seal. RH5's are the old widow-maker type that split down the center of the wheel and are held together with clips. Most people scrap them and replace with tubeless or two or three piece lock ring type wheels.

split, parts should be available through any good parts house (Napa, Carquest, any old mom and pop type store if you're lucky to have one, or Rockauto.com). Raybestos and Dorman usually have good medium duty brake catalogs online.

[split]

I discovered after posting, that in fact I did have to pull the axle shafts, but they are free floating so its as simple as pulling on them and they slide right out.

The trouble I have now is that I need the tool to remove the hub nut. There are several different hub nut tools depending on the particular Differential in the vehicle. I have yet to confirm which exact type is installed.

Tool: (from 68-70 shop manual)
J2222 - 5200, 7200 lbs (might be 2 5/8" and also referred to as "1929 wrench")
J0870 - 11000, 13500 lbs (might be 2 7/8" diameter? (OTC 1930 wrench?)
J22343 - 15000 lbs - OTC 1931 wrench?
J7341 - 17000 lbs - OTC 1931 wrench?

Tool: (1971 shop manual)
J0870 - H110 & H135 diff
J-5955 - H150 & T150


I don't know if the diff is original to the truck. So I can't trust the GVW stamped on the ID tag of the vehicle
The diff is a two speed vacuum operated, which I believe makes it a 1971 or later. It appears to be exactly like the one shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oAK-3VTCxAY

Anyone know how to ID a diff?

I measured the nut on my diff:
Outside Diameter: ~3.5"
Inside diameter tooth slot to tooth slot: ~3.07" This would be the slots that the teeth of the tool insert into.
Diameter of axle shaft: 1.75"

Based on this, it is not either of the two small sizes listed above. So now I'm checking on the size of the J22343 & J-5955 tools

[greywuuf]

the nut only holds the bearing preload ( and especially after much use ) may be loose to the point you don't need the tool....or only a small brass or aluminum punch to loosen it.... then you can take the nut in with you to get the tool for reassembly. just be sure to "unlock" the tab first

[jumpsoffrock]

Yes, I used a punch and hammer every time I removed them(about 10 times). No need for the tool.

[split]

I contacted OTC and based on measurements they provided, their OTC 1931 tool is the right one. So I ordered one. I may have been able to use a hammer and screwdriver....But I figured it would be better with the tool for both removal and install

The GVW tag on the truck shows 5K lbs. Given the measurements, the diff appears to be 15K or 17K lbs

[jumpsoffrock]

Random update about wheel cylinders:

The raysbestos website/parts catalog was update about 3-4 months after I used it---for no apparent reason.

The new website doesn't give hardly any information compared to what it used to. That really pissed me off, but it was after the fact, so it didn't matter.

To add insult to injury, I got the wrong parts the first time. And then they were stolen off my porch when delivered(FedEx).
You see, there are apparently different cylinders for 15"x4" rear brakes, and the larger 15x5" jobs. I couldn't find any eveidence that I had the larger brakes so I bought the cylinders for the smaller brakes

Why is this relevant to you? Because that OLD receipt is the only one I have a picture of!

I didn't keep track of the NEW part numbers for the larger brakes I had. The cylinder part #'s are not the same.


Therefor the only part numbers I have are wrong.



There is a very remote chance I have the old boxes or cylinders left, but I remember basically leaving them outside to ruin since I was in a hurry...so I'll check on that today and tomorrow.

I'm really sorry about this. You could try calling Raybestos to see if they still have the old catalog in their official system.


There is one other ounce of hope, and that is I remember the part numbers for the larger brakes cylinders(15x5") were very close to the smaller units


I "THINK" I remember.

Info in RED came from picture illustrated on Raybestos website when you search the part numbers I listed. Thankfully the pictures are very good and of actual parts, not just generic stock photos.

My OLD receipt says the smaller(15x4") part numbers are:
RAYBESTOS WC37158 Bottom wheel cylinder

RAYBESTOS WC37157 top wheel cylinder







The new part numbers for the larger brakes(15x5") might have been--I'm not sure--:

RAYBESTOS WC37159 Bottom wheel cylinder

RAYBESTOS WC37160 Top wheel cylinder

If you do a search for part #'s on Rockauto.com, they all exist, but there is almost no information on any of them. The applications are all incorrect.

[jumpsoffrock]

Boy are you in luck. In the weeds I found a can knocked over and spilled out were all of the old cylinders.

There was ONE box left, and the part number on it was WC37159 so that must have been the parts I used. WC37159 and WC37160, for 15x5" brakes.



Front wheel cylinders are WC19090 and WC19091


All available on roackauto

[jfarr]

I found a parts book. BSP-19 its Napa's Brake book for 1983 and prior vehicles. It gives part numbers for everything. Hope this helps.

[STPETEBLUE]

Now, if I only KNEW these were the same for a 1969 C50 with a GM T150 axle, 5"x15" brakes.

[CarolinaHD]

Originally Posted by STPETEBLUE

Now, if I only KNEW these were the same for a 1969 C50 with a GM T150 axle, 5"x15" brakes.

You can search through this website

http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=62025

[Fatphil1]

Holy crap!