Performing some extremely long overdue maintenance, have a couple ?'s

[TheRegulator]

been a member for a while but never really posted at all, just an intro thread, but now over this coming winter I want to get my truck actually rolling around to a point where I trust taking it anywhere, and figured I would start with maintenance.

I need to replace all the diff fluids, manual trans fluid, and T case fluid, but had a question there, what is everyone running in what, and how to I tell if my T case takes ATF or not, is there a certain number I should look at?

I also need to get the U Joints replaced, any preference there?

Alignment, and tires will be in the works also.

I do need an upper radiator hose, but cant seem to find one anywhere local, anyone point me into a direct fit. engine is the original 350 the truck came with

[Bigdav160]

What year is your truck? Most likely you'll need lots of gear oil.

4x4 used a metal pipe for an upper hose. Perhaps a rubber hose from a square body will fit.

edit: here's your radiator hose

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

What year is your truck? Most likely you'll need lots of gear oil.

4x4 used a metal pipe for an upper hose. Perhaps a rubber hose from a square body will fit.

edit: here's your radiator hose

mine is a 72, but it doesnt have a metal pipe on it. just an extremely swollen rubber one, but it is 4x4. I will edit the original post so everyone else knows also, thanks. going off of all data it says the T case may use ATF, depending on model.

[geezer#99]

Something else to fix for you!!
Your heater hoses are on wrong.
Intake to bottom of core, top to water pump.

[Stocker]

Assuming you have a factory 1972 4x4, your t-case should be a NP 205. Good case and they seem happy with any oil including ATF, but 80W-90 was recommended originally. I would go with full synthetic 75W-90 in the t-case and both diffs (any good brand) and Redline MT-90 in the transmission.

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Something else to fix for you!!
Your heater hoses are on wrong.
Intake to bottom of core, top to water pump.

I did not know this since the heat works, thanks for informing me!

Originally Posted by Stocker

Assuming you have a factory 1972 4x4, your t-case should be a NP 205. Good case and they seem happy with any oil including ATF, but 80W-90 was recommended originally. I would go with full synthetic 75W-90 in the t-case and both diffs (any good brand) and Redline MT-90 in the transmission.

most likely, Ill get it looked at tomorrow at work and start replacing fluids. why synthetic over non?

the trans does get a bit hard to get into gears when warm, so it would be sweet if that MT-90 helps that out. I do have another question]

originally this was my uncles, then became his kids, and they would always be breaking the clutch arm pivot pin, is this a common issue, or anyone know if they have had this happen, what the fix it?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

why synthetic over non?

Personal preference more than anything scientific. The old dino did a fine job for decades and still does. I just feel like synthetic can flow a little better in cold conditions, and stands up better under extreme heat or pressure.

[Jahloha]

Assuming thats the Taylorsville in Utah, I live in WVC. Good to see you on the forum!

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Personal preference more than anything scientific. The old dino did a fine job for decades and still does. I just feel like synthetic can flow a little better in cold conditions, and stands up better under extreme heat or pressure.

ah I see, since I can get it in bulk at my work for close to nothing, Ill probably be using just regular stuff. as far as the MT 90 goes, will that be nice and thin when cold, make for easy shifts when its close to 0 degrees out?

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Assuming thats the Taylorsville in Utah, I live in WVC. Good to see you on the forum!

it sure is, where abouts are you at. Im at roughly 32nd west and 54th south

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

as far as the MT 90 goes, will that be nice and thin when cold, make for easy shifts when its close to 0 degrees out?

It should, based on Redline's claims: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46

75W90 GL-4 gear oil (similar to SAE 5W40/10W40 engine oil viscosity)

My truck has an auto trans, and my only experience with MT-90 was in a Miata... which had a slick-shifting gearbox anyway.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

ah I see, since I can get it in bulk at my work for close to nothing, Ill probably be using just regular stuff. as far as the MT 90 goes, will that be nice and thin when cold, make for easy shifts when its close to 0 degrees out?



it sure is, where abouts are you at. Im at roughly 32nd west and 54th south

Im around 31st and 72nd west. Make sure you holler if you need anything, Im doing a frame off resto and am just painting the frame. If you ever have any questions about what Im doing, just ask. Or if you need anything.

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Im around 31st and 72nd west. Make sure you holler if you need anything, Im doing a frame off resto and am just painting the frame. If you ever have any questions about what Im doing, just ask. Or if you need anything.

you shouldnt have told me that, this needs a frame off resto, BAD

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

you shouldnt have told me that, this needs a frame off resto, BAD

Do it!! Mine got sidetracked a little with a new addition to the family, but back on track!

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Do it!! Mine got sidetracked a little with a new addition to the family, but back on track!

yea, Ineed a nice clean garage area to do so first, plus while its all tore apart I wanna do minor improvements, still keep the quadrajet but put the newer, what are they, Vortec heads and intake mani on it, basically make it as updated as possible but still keep that old truck feel, you know?


maybe install a/c, power windows and locks, that sort of thing

[Jahloha]

Yup, what you are talking about is a restomod. Keep the truck stock with modern amenities. I will be doing the same thing. Only things Ill be doing is 700r4, 383 stroker, small 2" front end lift, a/c, tank relocation, and stereo.

I feel you on the garage, getting my power washed by a friend after I paint the frame. Nothing better than going from dirty to clean. Clear out that garage and make some space!

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Yup, what you are talking about is a restomod. Keep the truck stock with modern amenities. I will be doing the same thing. Only things Ill be doing is 700r4, 383 stroker, small 2" front end lift, a/c, tank relocation, and stereo.

I feel you on the garage, getting my power washed by a friend after I paint the frame. Nothing better than going from dirty to clean. Clear out that garage and make some space!

I figured so, I would like to see if I can find a factory style stereo to fill the space, then install an aftermarket on brackets below it, seen it done in other old vehicles, that way you keep the look. as well as tank relocation, me being 6'1 gets me feeling a bit scrunched up to the wheel.

I drove it today to get some fuel and now that I have a new best friend in the salt lake valley, I will be asking a ton of questions. this truck has a knob for the throttle that when I was little my uncle told me never to touch, but now Im older, Ive messed with it, and it does absolutely nothing, is this supposed to be linked up to anything?

[71K20chevy]

Here's what I'm using
Engine: Royal Purple 10W30
Trans: Parts store ATF
NP205: Parts store ATF
Front/rear axles: Parts store synthetic 80-90

[SS Tim]

Always a good place to start is a GM manual.

RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Always a good place to start is a GM manual.

RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

what is the difference in the 10-30, 40-60 and so on, I would take it I need the 10 as its a K10?

also, I found this today while getting the steering wheel and alignment fairly set up, would this be a simple fix, all the rubber bushings are bad, but this one just dropped my jaw, not to mention every single thing on this is leaking, which is extremely upsetting.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

what is the difference in the 10-30, 40-60 and so on, I would take it I need the 10 as its a K10?

Think of it like this -- C/K10 is what used to be called half-ton trucks. C/K20 = 3/4 tons, and C/K30 = one ton trucks. Note that 67-72 model years had C30s but no factory K30s.

40-series and up were larger than standadr pickups.

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Think of it like this -- C/K10 is what used to be called half-ton trucks. C/K20 = 3/4 tons, and C/K30 = one ton trucks. Note that 67-72 model years had C30s but no factory K30s.

40-series and up were larger than standadr pickups.

are C's 2WD?

[Tree-50]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

are C's 2WD?

yes

[TheRegulator]

Originally Posted by Tree-50

yes

I figured so, but wanted to make sure, thanks!

[Tree-50]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

I figured so, but wanted to make sure, thanks!

Yessir, not a problem.

I've picked up a good bit of what works and what doesn't from this place so it's always nice to relay a little info back to others, even if it's simple like this.

[MAC71]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Assuming thats the Taylorsville in Utah, I live in WVC. Good to see you on the forum!

Hey Salt Lake City here!