Whats wrong with this carb?

[muffintop]

I bought this for a winter truck but it came without a choke on the carb.Its a Quadrajet, Model 7045213.



The previous owner took off the choke after installing a newer elderboke manafold. my questions is how can i put a choke on this set up?

i was thinking an electronic choke would be best, and since i just had a mechanic friend rebuild the whole carb id like to keep it.

when looking at the carb from the passengers side, the choke opens when turned clock wise.





Also if anyone here could post a picture of the proper pedal spring tension set up, it would be much appreciated. At the moment the Previous owner had done this... with a custom idle kickdown for the tranny that i need to fix also asap.







thanks guys!

[Dead Parrot]

What you appear to have is a carb choke setup for a remote heat stove. On the OEM manifold, the stove would sit about where the rectangular plate is on yours. A rod connects to the oval shaped hole above and next to the small rectangular tab. You should be able to manually push up and down on that tab and move the choke plate assuming the linkage inside the carb is connected. If you are still running a stock air cleaner, your Thermac system connects to the small rod coming out the middle of the linkage. The end is hidden behind the hose in your first pic. If you aren't running a Thermac system, cap off the tube as it is a vacuum leak otherwise.

On a OEM manifold, there is a flat spot for the heat stove. Guessing your manifold would need the optional adapter for a heat stove.

If you want to run a manual choke, you can drill a small hole in the downwards pointing tab and rig a cable attachment off the back carb/manifold bolt.

The throttle return spring is supposed to be a pair of concentric springs connected to the bottom hole in Picture 4 and ran back to the throttle linkage bracket.

[muffintop]

i might just do a manual choke. do you happen to have any pictures of such a working setup?

[cadillac_al]

Edelbrock makes a choke kit for that manifold. $30-40 would have it working nice.

[tucsonjwt]

I put a manual choke on all of my old squares. Any auto parts store will have a kit for about $12. It is a simple install - just read the directions - and make sure that you give the cable a wide loop before it enters the driver's side firewall area so the cable does not bind up. You are missing the choke housing, so that will require some other method to attach it to the choke linkage, but I think you can just mount the bracket for the cable close to the carburetor and drill a hole as advised, or maybe remove the link and use that hole in the choke link.
I had one of those manifold mounted thermostats and it was the worst of all of the styles. I would not have an "automatic" choke, electric or hot air.

[K5owner]

You need this:
http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester-...48-p-2059.html

and this:
http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester-...nal-p-416.html

[ron350]

K5owner take a closer look at the pictures I don’t think that round choke will work on that carb.

There are several things not right about that rebuilt carb.

[K5owner]

What year is this truck? It may be easier and less of a hassle to buy a core and rebuild it.

[mickeykreg]

Dorman #55101 on Rockauto, $7.70 manual choke set up.

[muffintop]

Its and 84 k5.

thanks for all the tips guys. Im going to put a manual choke on this weekend when i have a moment

[K5owner]

I have an 84 k5 and that is not the carb that is supposed to be on there. Unless that is a federal emissions truck you are supposed to have a tps on that carb as well as mixture control switch and an electric choke. I know as my k5 is a bone stock 84 as well but a ca emissions version. But even with the federal emissions version you should have a mixture control switch carb at a minimum.

[tucsonjwt]

A couple of tips on installing a manual choke.

Leave a little tension on the cable so when you push the knob in all the way it does not completely bottom out against the mounting bracket. This will allow you to know when the choke is completely open. If you have it bottom out on the mounting bracket, then when the cable stretches out or moves the choke will still be partly closed when you think it is all the way open.

When pulling the choke cable out, keep pressure on the knob and depress the accelerator all the way to the floor. The take your foot all the way off the accelerator while still pulling on the choke knob. You should notice a very slight movement of the choke knob, which is the choke valve seating to the completely closed position. For some reason, the choke will not close all the way unless you let off on the accelerator completely while keeping pressure on the knob.

Also, when starting, pull the choke out all the way even in warm weather, then push the choke in all the way after the engine starts, depressing the accelerator to increase the RPM of the engine. In very cold weather, you can keep the choke partly closed after starting and open it gradually as you drive the truck. You will quickly learn how much choke your truck needs after a little experimentation.

Don't give up if the installation does not work out on the first attempt. You will likely have to adjust the location of the cable to get a smooth operation, but once you get it right you will be satisfied that your choke is in the correct position at all times. If you get any binding in the cable you need to make wider loops where the cable turns toward the driver's side of the truck and where it goes through the firewall. Also, mount the knob under the dash on the right side of the steering wheel. If you mount it too high up on the dash you will create another bend and potential pinch point.

[Dead Parrot]

I don't have a picture of a working Qjet setup. Replaced my Qjet years ago with a Edelbrock 1405 and installed a manual choke on that.

I put my manual choke knob near the park brake handle on the left side.

You might want to move your gas line to the other side of the alternator wiring. You want to make sure it doesn't touch the exhaust manifold.

If that carb is otherwise working great, keep it. Even if it isn't proper for the truck, quality of rebuilt carbs is spotty. Easier to fix outside the carb parts then finding someone good at fixing and adjusting the inside parts.

The version of heat stove your carb is designed to work with never worked very well on any of the vehicles I have owned.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by muffintop

Its and 84 k5.

thanks for all the tips guys. Im going to put a manual choke on this weekend when i have a moment

I can't wait to see how you hook up a choke cable that likes to normally run horizontally and (doesn't like sharp bends) and install it to pull down and push up vertically on the carb linkage.
Take us some pics.

[muffintop]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I can't wait to see how you hook up a choke cable that likes to normally run horizontally and (doesn't like sharp bends) and install it to pull down and push up vertically on the carb linkage.
Take us some pics.

Will do! also thanks geezer for all the help on my other post. I really appreciate it.

@tucsonjwt, thanks for the tips. i got a manual choke offline today and hopefully it will be arriving with a couple other parts.

@k5owner, thats great to know. i was wondering why when i did a serial number check on the qjet it said it was for a 75 chevy... if you have a moment could you post up a picture of your k5? thanks!

[muffintop]

one question more. i use to drive my dads 82 short bed, and i remember stepping on the pedal before starting it. What is the reason behind that? @tucsonjwt, is that used for setting the choke? if so, iv also heard of pumping the gas pedal before starting as well for cold cold starts.

[tucsonjwt]

Yes. Pushing the accelerator all the way to the floor releases the link and sets the choke valve. If working properly, the thermostat coil will be curled up when the temperature is cold, causing the attached choke link to move and close the choke valve. When the temperature increases, the choke coil relaxes and takes pressure off the link, causing the choke valve to open. That is the theory. In reality, the thermostat coil in all of my squares never worked properly. I could get them to close the choke on a cold start, but the choke would never fully open when the engine warmed up. Conversely, I could get the choke to be fully open when warm, but never full close when cold.

It should be noted that the choke must completely close in order to start the vehicle when cold. I find that even in hot weather a cold start engine needs a completely closed choke to start - in my experience, mostly big blocks. My experience with aftermarket Carters and Edelbrock carburetors is that the choke valves were not machined properly, and they would hang up and not completely close. I tried to file off the edges on one, but I went too far and that allowed a small amount of air to get around the choke valve, causing hard cold starts.

I will try to find my old post on the manual choke and link it. Really, IMHO the best mod you can make to an old square.

[tucsonjwt]

As for pumping the gas, my 73 had a label on the sun visor on the driver's side which directed pumping the accelerator prior to start. In my experience, a few pumps of the accelerator to the floor prior to starting the engine dumps some gas in the carb and aids in starting. I rarely drive my truck, so I always do this. If I am driving the truck several days in a row, then I don't need to pump the gas - just set the choke as described previously. Here in the desert, any gas left in the carb dries out quickly.

One trick I saw a tow truck driver do for a no start condition- remove the wing nut on the air cleaner lid and pour some gas down that hole. This directs a stream of gas down the center of the carb without causing a lot of mess. It worked in my case.

[tucsonjwt]

It looks like you have a divorced choke carburetor. A link should go down to a cast bracket with a choke coil which is mounted to the intake manifold. Since you have a high rise Edelbrock intake, I think those mounting holes are not there. I would experiment with using a bolt on one of those block off plates to mount the manual choke bracket.

Here are links to pics of my manual choke installation, along with a link to a pics of a divorced choke setup. Scroll down to get the details.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=manual+choke3

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=496891

[cadillac_al]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I can't wait to see how you hook up a choke cable that likes to normally run horizontally and (doesn't like sharp bends) and install it to pull down and push up vertically on the carb linkage.
Take us some pics.

I can't wait to see that too.

I should post a youtube video this winter of my plow truck starting at -20 degrees. I give it a couple pumps, fire it up, and walk back in the house while the truck purrs. You can't do that with a manual choke.

My other truck has an Edelbrock carb with electric choke. You can't just walk away when it first starts because there is no choke pull off. You have to play with the throttle a little to get the choke to open a little, then you can walk away from it.

[Axle]

Quadrajet, Model 7045213

1975 model year carb. I think I ended up with the same one on one of my Nova's (which came off a 1975 truck). That one is a divorced choke (not hot air) as someone else pointed out. And as well as remove the link rod to the choke pull off and use that hole for your manual choke, won't need to make any unusual angles with the cable then. Do not remove the pulloff, that one is also acting as the damper (or whatever the correct term is) for the secondaries.

Alex.

[K5owner]

"@k5owner, thats great to know. i was wondering why when i did a serial number check on the qjet it said it was for a 75 chevy... if you have a moment could you post up a picture of your k5? thanks!"

Here you go. 1984 K5 4x4 Custom Deluxe edition. Factory 350, AC, 700r4, and computer controlled dizzy and carb. (Don't mind the zip tie. Ordered a new connector)

[y5mgisi]

Dont know if anyone has mentioned it yet, but they make an electric, remote choke conversion for quadrajets like the OP that originally came with a stove style remote choke. That would be what i would do.

[Axle]

Pic of the remote conversion;

Some thread with a buick kit remounted to an edelbrock intake;
http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.ph...t=#post2189844

Alex.

[muffintop]

Originally Posted by Axle

1975 model year carb. I think I ended up with the same one on one of my Nova's (which came off a 1975 truck). That one is a divorced choke (not hot air) as someone else pointed out. And as well as remove the link rod to the choke pull off and use that hole for your manual choke, won't need to make any unusual angles with the cable then. Do not remove the pulloff, that one is also acting as the damper (or whatever the correct term is) for the secondaries.

Alex.

the link to the choke pull off? the long one? or the short one?