Rear cab panel replacement?

[dunce79]

I'm giving up trying to fix the window channel and other rotted areas of my 59 Big Window cab. I think I'll have a much better end product if I just replace the whole rear of the cab.

1. Anyone done this and can comment on how well the replacement fits?

2. Any tips/tricks?

3. How should I go about bracing up the inner structure? Was thinking some diagonal down legs from the middle section down to the floor and then 1-2 going across the cab.

[MARTINSR]

How about first posting some pictures of the repairs that need to be done? Replacing the whole panel would be the way to go hands down if it were a genuine GM part. But being it's a reproduction that isn't exact but "similar", I would say let's look at the rust you are talking about and see if it really should be replaced.

Here is a great thread, if you go to some of the last pages you will see how he fixed the windshield area rust.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/53-b...ir-233635.html

If you do some searching here, I couldn't find it with a quick one, there was a thread on a guy doing one in an AD truck (47-54) and he spent a lot of time coming up with corrections for the "similar" reproduction panel. But check it out if you can find it for some tips.

Brian

[dunce79]

Its like this around the entire top of the window channel and the metal above is too thin and rotted to weld to. I've tried. My drip rail is really thin, I have a rust through just behind the passenger door on top as well as where the rear cab panel meets the floor. Cab corners are also gone of course. Plus some dents in the rear panel.

I don't need show quality resto here so as long as that rear panel looks and fits close, I'd be miles ahead vs all the small repairs I think.

[_Ogre]

that rear panel is only the outer skin, you'll also need the inner skin if it's equally bad
i've never done anything that big but for the price you might see if you can get a better cab
those #@*%$# nice people in texas and california are always posting up rust free cabs
i'd be more inclined to replace the cab or sections of the cab before spending that kind of change

[dwcsr]

I'd replace the works on that. its not nearly as hard as it may look. Problem is that once you open that can of worms you may find yourself replacing the inner and outer roof as well. Fix is actually good. I did a roof a while back and had little to no trimming. I use Dynacorn for these parts.

Figure on an inner rear panel and an outer rear and possibly a inner roof and outer. But again its not as hard as fixing what you have piece by piece and when done its done for years to come. down fall to replacing is $$$$$$ and down fall to fixing is time a lot of time and maybe again in 5 years when the other rust finally peeks through.

shipping on a rear panel is probably $125 alone so by from one source and see if they will get it all on one pallet and see if you can have it shipped to a business locations or pick it up at the nearest freight terminal to you. Tailgate service to a house is $75 to $125 by itself on top of freight.

I think you should open up the back and see whats there. take off the rear panel and look up to see if a roof is needed and make your decision then. A different cab cold be an option as well. Don't worry about bracing, the roof and floor will keep it in line.

If you want a panel price email me.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

that rear panel is only the outer skin, you'll also need the inner skin if it's equally bad
i've never done anything that big but for the price you might see if you can get a better cab
those #@*%$# nice people in texas and california are always posting up rust free cabs
i'd be more inclined to replace the cab or sections of the cab before spending that kind of change

I'm with Ogre, I'd drive a day or so to pick up a good cab rather than spend weeks working to replace that much. Boise Idaho CL has two good cabs listed but I looked and they sold, both were around $300. Also some in the Eastern part of Idaho too. I would suspect eastern UT and Wyoming might be good places to look too, all high desert, low moisture places. A CL wanted post in selected places might turn up on close enough to drive and pick up from NE.

[dunce79]

My inner panels appear to be in good shape with the exception of a small 1/2 wide by foot long section top of back window. But I'm comfortable fixing that and if it doesn't work out, I'll buy the inner. Its the outside piece that just ain't gunna cut it. Would like to find a cab but I think I'm gunna give this a go. I know its probably more $ than finding a good used cab but part of me just wants to do it for the heck of it. I inquired about the fit and was told other customers have purchased and had no complaints -of course thats what they would say tho.. I'll be sure to report back. Will be doing a shi*tload of media blasting this weekend.. that may reveal more to the story. (hopefully all good! ; )

By the way, the panel at Tuckers is only $424. kinda like a large quarter panel for a car I suppose. Not terrible. Its the shipping that sucks.

[mr48chev]

Since you have to take it apart anyhow it might be best to fit the doors, brace the cab and pull the panel off to see what you have before pressing on. It would mean a few extra days shipping time before putting it back together but you may be better off doing it that way before finding out there is possibly a lot more rust than the eye shows right now.

[dunce79]

Good point. I do need to get the doors adjusted correctly and that will provide something else to line the new panel up with.

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Since you have to take it apart anyhow it might be best to fit the doors, brace the cab and pull the panel off to see what you have before pressing on. It would mean a few extra days shipping time before putting it back together but you may be better off doing it that way before finding out there is possibly a lot more rust than the eye shows right now.

[dwcsr]

Yes by all means get your doors right first and fix the hinges so there isn't al slop. line up the front edges to where you want them but don't worry about the back edge, that will be gaped when or if you do the panel

[dunce79]

Did some media blasting around the roof seam and an area that I knew was bad didn't get much worse. The brow looks good so this is the only bad spot on the roof. I was thinking I can patch it and if it doesn't work out I'll do the roof skin. But this isn't a show truck, more of a rat rod though I still want to do quality work. Curious though.. should I attempt the roof repair or give in and do the skin right off the bat?



I figured to only take the patch about an inch up into the roof from the droip rail and do it in 2 pieces to ease in forming the patch.

[dwcsr]

Either way you still have to cut that area out so trim it up to good metal and see what you have. If you can repair it good if not do a roof skin. Id try to repair first if its only in that spot. Go around the edges and poke them with a sharp awl to see if you have spots that are almost through if you find that its weak in a lot of areas that will make your mind up for you. Try to keep the old metal intact so you have some what of a template to for the new pieces with.

[Russell Ashley]

Check this thread. I've been wanting to do this ever since I got my truck.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551749

[_Ogre]

i still think you ought to start looking for a cab
get your cab all media blasted and look at what parts need to be replaced

[OrrieG]

Alot of guys have removed the trip rails and had to do more infill than it looks like your will. But like Ogre I would suggest a picking hammer to make sure the front eyebrow, A pillar, bottom back and front windows are not gone too. Very seldom is there damage like in your photo without more where the inner and outer (and in some case an inner third layer) of metal is pot welded together. A quick look at the Factory Assemby Manual will show what and where hidden joints that collect water are.

[tbrown5079]

I put a big window replacement panel on my truck and would say that the fit was excellent. That being said, the only issue I had was changing from a small to big window. Price was about what you said with around $100 shipping. Thats a lot of money and time if you could get a better cab.
tbrown

[dsraven]

check out the whole cab from floors to steps and hinge pillars. then do a comparison-like everything from work hours required, media blasting and welding grinding & paint supplies to parts required and shipping. then compare to a good rust free cab and go from there. also, they do sell new cabs that come with the doors already fitted. new parts. by the time you spend all that time and money getting the old one ready you could have a new cab instead of an old fixed one that still has rust behind those inner panels and down inside the cowl etc. just saying. if i was to do it again I would look seriously at the new cab alternative. a lot of time and money got spent on my old rust bucket and it still isn't even sitting on the frame yet AND i haven't got to the doors. do a cost comparitive and go from there. not trying to rain on your parade but a lot of time could be used for another aspect of the hotrod.

[dunce79]

Well, this fun project has officially begun. I had to fix an section of cab floor towards the rear and now I'm repairing the window channel of the inner rear cab panel before removing whats left of the drip rail. Then I'll begin test fitting the new panel. The inner panel window channel is just just bad on top at the pinch weld so I'm going to be able to save it with some patches. Just takes a little time.

[dsraven]

wow, you have been a busy fella. looks good though. I have the same panel for my truck except mine was a small window to start with so a couple more pieces to fit in on the inner part. isn't it funny that the lower rear sections are welded on to the rest of the rear outer panel? seems like they could have done that in one piece but who am I to know that, maybe not. don't forget to test fit the window before welding the spots back together. if you have the old window rubber you can cut a few short pieces to hold the glass to make sure things line up first.
looks good. keep the pics coming.
dennis

[dwcsr]

Looking good so far. After you get that panel on for the first time clamp it in about 6 places and let it sit for a few days it will relax the panel and make final adjustments easier. Don't try to force it into its final position on the first fitting you could end up with a buckling that shows up only after its painted. I would put the fenders back on and make any needed adjustments to the door gaps prior to final tack of the back panel.

[dunce79]

Thanks.. and darn.. didn't think about saving any of that old window rubber but I think it was too brittle anyway. I have the window and new rubber though. Wonder if I can tell just by holding that window up into place if everything is close enough.

Originally Posted by dsraven

wow, you have been a busy fella. looks good though. I have the same panel for my truck except mine was a small window to start with so a couple more pieces to fit in on the inner part. isn't it funny that the lower rear sections are welded on to the rest of the rear outer panel? seems like they could have done that in one piece but who am I to know that, maybe not. don't forget to test fit the window before welding the spots back together. if you have the old window rubber you can cut a few short pieces to hold the glass to make sure things line up first.
looks good. keep the pics coming.
dennis

[dunce79]

Yeah, I have better doors that I'll be fitting with the rear panel and fenders ect before I weld anything in. That way I can take the time to fix any gaps ect and get it perfect. Thanks for the advice.

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Looking good so far. After you get that panel on for the first time clamp it in about 6 places and let it sit for a few days it will relax the panel and make final adjustments easier. Don't try to force it into its final position on the first fitting you could end up with a buckling that shows up only after its painted. I would put the fenders back on and make any needed adjustments to the door gaps prior to final tack of the back panel.

[ChuckDriver]

Should be real nice when you are done!

[_Ogre]

looking good, also looks like you had to drill out 3 or 4 bazzilion spot welds

[Highsider]

A lot of work!
Looking pretty good already.