Newbie 72 Cheyenne - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

domano 68 · 11-25-2014, 09:59 AM

New to the board and C10s. Picking up a 72 Cheyenne this weekend. Seems to be in pretty good shape. Its been sitting for about 5 years.

I'd like to change out the fluids. What weight oil is recommended for these older vehicles? Dino or synthetic? Would a zinc additive be necessary?

I'd like to flush the brake fluid so I need to know what is recommended there also, DOT3, etc. Is this a pretty easy procedure?

Thanks in advance!

engineer_gregh · 11-25-2014, 06:38 PM

Hi and welcome to the board. I would turn the engine over by hand to make sure nothing has seized if it hasn't been started in 5 years. I would also recommend draining the gas tank and blowing out the fuel lines before I attempted to start the engine. Then I would use regular motor oil, 10-30 or 10-40, with ZDDP additive. I'm pretty sure regular DOT 3 brake fluid is correct. Good luck and keep us posted, everyone here likes pictures!

**70cst** · 11-25-2014, 08:42 PM

Hey domano 68

to the forums and

from Ohio

on your new ride

SS Tim · 11-25-2014, 09:33 PM

Start with a factory service manual, here are downloads until you can buy an easier to use paper copy. An owners handbook is also a very good thing to have starting out and most every truck parts seller has reprints.
I'd stick to dino starting out and if you are new a mentor is worth seeking out. Don't forget to post a picture (or more) of your "new" truck!

* VIN/Model Decoders
* Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio)
* Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID
* RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here

domano 68 · 11-25-2014, 10:07 PM

Great information everyone. Thanks much for chiming in and sharing the[links to the manuals! I'll get pics up in a few days.

brown7373 · 11-26-2014, 09:03 AM

I would drain the oil and change the filter and use 10W30. I don't think the additive is that important with an already broken-in cam running stock springs. New cam break-in, especially with heavier springs is a different story. But it's not that expensive if it makes you feel better. I would change the oil and filter a second time, after it runs for a while, because you will drain cold oil that all the junk has settled out and been sitting for 5 years. After the initial start, the new oil will be hot and the junk that was on the bottom of the pan will then be drained out with the 2nd oil change.

Also drain flush and replace the radiator coolant. You need to check and replace the hoses which may be weak. Same with brake hoses, which often deteriorate from the inside out. I would doubt that a truck that sat for 5 years has recent brake hose replacements.

After you get it running, you can check and replace brake components as needed

11-25-2014, 09:59 AM	#1
domano 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: hsv al Posts: 89	Newbie 72 Cheyenne New to the board and C10s. Picking up a 72 Cheyenne this weekend. Seems to be in pretty good shape. Its been sitting for about 5 years. I'd like to change out the fluids. What weight oil is recommended for these older vehicles? Dino or synthetic? Would a zinc additive be necessary? I'd like to flush the brake fluid so I need to know what is recommended there also, DOT3, etc. Is this a pretty easy procedure? Thanks in advance!

11-25-2014, 06:38 PM	#2
engineer_gregh Registered User Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Smyrna TN Posts: 1,153	Re: Newbie 72 Cheyenne Hi and welcome to the board. I would turn the engine over by hand to make sure nothing has seized if it hasn't been started in 5 years. I would also recommend draining the gas tank and blowing out the fuel lines before I attempted to start the engine. Then I would use regular motor oil, 10-30 or 10-40, with ZDDP additive. I'm pretty sure regular DOT 3 brake fluid is correct. Good luck and keep us posted, everyone here likes pictures! __________________ 1971 Longbed BB Cheyenne Super 1972 Longbed SB Cheyenne Super 1972 Longbed Highlander Custom Deluxe 1975 K5 4x4 full convertible Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645165 Greg Smyrna TN

11-25-2014, 08:42 PM	#3
70cst Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: New Madison, Ohio Posts: 21,373	Re: Newbie 72 Cheyenne Hey domano 68 to the forums and from Ohio on your new ride __________________ A husband can be right...or...A husband can be happy. 67-72 Chevy and GMC Trucks...The Classic Truck for the Classic Folk. 1970 CST Two tone green, 402BB, 400 Automatic, Tach, Buckets, AC, AM-FM, Tilt, GM CB, GM 8 Tract, LWB, etc JOHN 17:3...The better side of "LIFE" Remember: Everyday is a good day...Some are just gooder!

11-25-2014, 09:33 PM	#4
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,503	Re: Newbie 72 Cheyenne Start with a factory service manual, here are downloads until you can buy an easier to use paper copy. An owners handbook is also a very good thing to have starting out and most every truck parts seller has reprints. I'd stick to dino starting out and if you are new a mentor is worth seeking out. Don't forget to post a picture (or more) of your "new" truck! * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

11-25-2014, 10:07 PM	#5
domano 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: hsv al Posts: 89	Re: Newbie 72 Cheyenne Great information everyone. Thanks much for chiming in and sharing the[links to the manuals! I'll get pics up in a few days.

11-26-2014, 09:03 AM	#6
brown7373 Registered User Join Date: May 2011 Location: Fort Pierce, FL Posts: 430	Re: Newbie 72 Cheyenne I would drain the oil and change the filter and use 10W30. I don't think the additive is that important with an already broken-in cam running stock springs. New cam break-in, especially with heavier springs is a different story. But it's not that expensive if it makes you feel better. I would change the oil and filter a second time, after it runs for a while, because you will drain cold oil that all the junk has settled out and been sitting for 5 years. After the initial start, the new oil will be hot and the junk that was on the bottom of the pan will then be drained out with the 2nd oil change. Also drain flush and replace the radiator coolant. You need to check and replace the hoses which may be weak. Same with brake hoses, which often deteriorate from the inside out. I would doubt that a truck that sat for 5 years has recent brake hose replacements. After you get it running, you can check and replace brake components as needed



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