Alternator not charging

[jpoole]

Hi guys, installed a dual fan radiator setup last weekend and now my alternator is not charging according to Holley Terminator EFI system, gauge shows OK. Had a broken terminal end so I changed that and went to start and would not start. I then put in a new battery and started fine, however, the holley terminator system still showed 11 volts when running.

Alternator seems to be a single wire conversion to an internal regulator and If I check voltage off the back of the alternator it is 11 volts also.

Could I have broken a wire somewhere that causes the alternator to no longer charge?

What could I have done to cause this? Was working fine before changing the radiator and adding the fans last weekend. Also changed belt and tensioner.

Any help appreciated.

[tommys72]

External voltage regulator may have gone bad. happened to mine and had
just about the issues. replaced It and no issues since

[Andy4639]

What size alternator is it? I would think you may have over amp'ed it maybe.

Check the battery with a volt meter with everything turned off but motor running @ 2000 RPM's. Then watch it and turn one thing on at a time to see when it starts going down.

A one wire alternator shouldn't have a external regulator. Check the hub on passenger side fender by battery and make sure all wires are connected good. Also check all your fuses inline.

[Zeke's Garage]

Do you have any pictures of the alternator and wiring? Specifically the rear charging post and plug. From that we should be able to tell what type of alternator you're running and how to move forward.
Do you have any idiot lights for the charging system?

If you're only seeing 11v at the back of the alternator, then it's not putting out any voltage and you're just running off the battery. Upgrading to a newer internally regulated system is very simple and one of the best upgrades for adding electronics (upgraded radio, amps, and especially EFI systems with an electric fuel pump).

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

What size alternator is it? I would think you may have over amp'ed it maybe.

Check the battery with a volt meter with everything turned off but motor running @ 2000 RPM's. Then watch it and turn one thing on at a time to see when it starts going down.

A one wire alternator shouldn't have a external regulator. Check the hub on passenger side fender by battery and make sure all wires are connected good. Also check all your fuses inline.

Yep, dual electric fans are too big for any of the normal 12SI alternators. Idle amps are not too good on a 12SI and that is when you need it most for fans. Best swap is a CS144 from a '96 Roadmaster or Caprice. Do not waste time with a CS130, you will only be left stranded somewhere.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=579118
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457448
more.....

[jpoole]

Hi Guys, thanks for the replys. I have attached a couple of pics. I found it is a CS130 105 amp alternator.

The alternator is showing 11.9 with nothing but the fuel pump and EFI running. It was 13.7 before.

It was working fine before installing the radiator, but now even with just the engine running no fans connected or AC on it is 11.9 at the back of the alternator.

Will a CS144 bolt up to my chevy performance serpentine setup?

thanks, Jeff

[MARKDTN]

There is a lot of info on CS130 to CS144 conversion. I don't exactly know what your brackets are, but it appears that there is a CS144 on '99 Suburbans that does directly interchange. It would probably help if you had a good alternator shop to talk to. The plug is the same, so the mounting should be the biggest obstacle.

Current thinking may be different, but I wouldn't use a CS130 as a doorstop! I went through 3 in 60,000 miles in my '89 IROC and 2 in 50,000 miles in my '95 Suburban. Corvette guys used to carry a spare if they went on a road trip. Had a '96 Caprice bought new that had over 100,000 when I sold it with never an issue with alternator (CS144). May be that a CS130 can be built to survive, but the CS144 has been surviving fine since day 1. Which would you rather have?

[Koffer]

Is your white wire getting voltage .
.
Here's a nice diagram to use for toubleshooting
http://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-...g-diagram.html

[jpoole]

Originally Posted by Koffer

Is your white wire getting voltage .
.
Here's a nice diagram to use for toubleshooting
http://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-...g-diagram.html

I don't know will check. I have a stupid question, what is the process, engine ignition on? and what volts?

Thanks, Jeff

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by jpoole

I don't know will check. I have a stupid question, what is the process, engine ignition on? and what volts?

Thanks, Jeff

The CS 144 should bolt up just fine. it's the AD 244 that is a little larger and requires modifying the mounting brackets.

No question is stupid.
The brown/white wire in question is the exciter wire for the alternator and it should have 12 volts on it with the key on and zero with the key off.

On the older trucks, when they are converted to the CS alternators a resistor is required in the L (brown/white) wire to prevent the diodes in the alternator from blowing out. What is the connector in your picture between the brown and white wire?
It's always a good idea to give details about your truck so we know what year and engine, etc. we're dealing with.

[jpoole]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

The CS 144 should bolt up just fine. it's the AD 244 that is a little larger and requires modifying the mounting brackets.

No question is stupid.
The brown/white wire in question is the exciter wire for the alternator and it should have 12 volts on it with the key on and zero with the key off.

On the older trucks, when they are converted to the CS alternators a resistor is required in the L (brown/white) wire to prevent the diodes in the alternator from blowing out. What is the connector in your picture between the brown and white wire?
It's always a good idea to give details about your truck so we know what year and engine, etc. we're dealing with.

Truck is a 1969 C10 with a 396 cid.
Chevy Performance Serpentine Setup with AC
700R4 trans
12 Bolt True Trak with 3.73
Holley Terminator EFI setup with Areomotive electric intank pump
dual fans on the radiator
Classic Air.

I don't know if the connector is a resistor or just a wire crimp. It was like that when I purchased the truck.

I will test the volts when I get home tonight if it stops raining.

Thanks, Jeff

[jpoole]

Originally Posted by Koffer

Is your white wire getting voltage .
.
Here's a nice diagram to use for toubleshooting
http://alternatorparts.com/gm-delco-...g-diagram.html

Well looks like this is my problem. Thanks Koffer

Tested plug wire at the alternator with key on and no juice 00.0 on the multimeter, traced the white wire up to the firewall where it has a splice into a brown wire where it showed 00.1.

Is there a fuse associated with the alternator brown wire? Also any power blocks I need to look at?

Thanks, Jeff

[Koffer]

Here's a wiring diagram link for the stock wiring
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856

[jpoole]

Originally Posted by Koffer

Here's a wiring diagram link for the stock wiring
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856

Thanks Koffer, it goes to the Brown/white bulkhead connect as shown in the diagram for the instrumet cluster connector with gauges, however is there a daigram on where it goes from there?

System was working before I installed the fans on radiator.

[VetteVet]

If you have a gauge dash the brown wire goes to the key switch and if you have the light dash it goes to the cluster plug.
In the original harness for the external regulated alternator, the wire is a resistance wire equivalent to 10 ohms which equals the resistance of the charging light in the idiot light dash. This resistance is needed top excite the fields in the alternator and it protects the diodes in the diode trio inside alternator. It also prevents feedback from the alternator to the key switch when the engine is shut down to prevent engine run on.

Both of these wires are connected together on the inside of the cab in the bulk head block and are connected to the 16 gauge brown wire on the engine side of the bulk head block. If you have the gauge dash you will not have the charging light wire.

You should check for 12 volts on the brown wire on the engine side of the bulk head block and if you have it there then you have an open in the splices on the white wire.

The diagrams below show the path of the resistance wire from the key switch and the charging light to the inside of the cab bulkhead. The cab bulkhead block is under the fuse panel and there are no fuses on the wires.

The resistance wire is the fourth one down on the key switch at the top of the diagram and the charging light wire is the second one down below the pink wire on the cluster plug.



This diagram shows the wires running to the cab block where they join. Shown by the orange arrow on the left side of the diagram.



When you convert to the CS alternator it is necessary to increase the ohms from 10 to between 30 and 300 ohms. Painless wiring recommends an 85 ohm 5 watt resistor.

[jpoole]

thanks VetteVet for the advice, funny thing. Started tracing back again looked at the wires etc pulled a little and straighted. Started mulitmeter work and I now have power to the alternator exciter wire.

I don't see any resistor installed so I will do that and solder the 2 butt connector connections.

Oh well it is charging now at 13.7.

Thanks everyone for the help.

[jjzepplin]

Subbed for diagram and explanation.

[70CHEVYBB]

I am also have a problem of not charging. I did convert to a cs130 and found out today that the brown wire only has 1.8 volts with the key on. can I just use a different wire that has 12 volts as I am not real sure why the brown wire does not have 12 volts.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by 70CHEVYBB

I am also have a problem of not charging. I did convert to a cs130 and found out today that the brown wire only has 1.8 volts with the key on. can I just use a different wire that has 12 volts as I am not real sure why the brown wire does not have 12 volts.

Where'd you take your reading at? It's possible that the brown wire at the fire wall block connection has a poor connection with the wire from the key switch on the other (cab) side of the block.

You can run an exciter wire to the L terminal from any key on source as long as you use the resister in the wire. I wouldn't use the ignition distributor wire though. One of the IGN Unfused terminals on the fuse block would be great for that.I would encourage you to use the brown wire if you can find where the poor connection is. I like to run the brown wire straight from the firewall block to the L pin on the alternator like the diagram below.

[70CHEVYBB]

I have mine wired like you diagram, the only thing different is I put my resistor closer to the firewall. I will pull the fire wall block and check it there.

Thanks, Wes

[67 chevelle]

You dont need a resistor if you have an alternator light , the light itself is the resistor , and is essential to your alternator running correctly . It should glow with the key on and engine not running , if it does not there is an issue . It should go off when your engine is running , if it does not there is an issue . Power goes from your "key on" position to the alternator light then to the brown wire , which is spliced to the white wire in most cases when doing a conversion from a external regulated system , to a internal regulated system . If you can read , and comprehend this link you will be an expert . It might give you a head ache , it did to me , but after going back to it and rereading many many times , I am better off understanding chevy's systems .

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

[jpoole]

Hi guys, have few more questions. I dropped to like 12.6 charging with the alternator being warm, EFI and a single radiator fan on. I don't thing AC, 2 fans, a radio and lights will work with the current 105 amp alternator.

I looked into a CS144 conversion and I don't see how that big sucker is going to fit into my CS130 space. So I am looking into a higher output CS130. I have read where they are not setup to support the higher AMPS.

Questions:
1. Does anyone have a suggestion on a CS130 aftermarket alternator that may hold up?
2. Should I go 140 or 170 with EFI, electric fuel pump, dual radiator fans, HEI, radio and AC?
3. What wires need to be upgraded to handle increase in amperage?

Thanks everyone, and Cowboys rule...

[70CHEVYBB]

Orielly's = JUNK

[70CHEVYBB]

Still have no idea why my drown wire only has 1.8 volts. Is there a problem with just using a different wire to power up the alternator?

[CastIron]

The CS130D alternator is more reliable than the CS130 and you should be able to find one that would bolt right up in place of it. I forget what they are rated at, but I think between 105-120 amps. Get a genuine delco and it should be good for a 200k+ miles.