Disc brake swap help? 06 with 01 rearend.

[NastyBuzzard]

You know sometimes when you can't just leave well enough alone? Well... Today was my trucks maiden voyage after the body swap.

Took it to town fueled it up, was driving pretty good.

I noticed speedo was off, was doing 60 when speedo said 65.. makes sense it had 35"s on it, maybe it was changed for it.

I also noticed that my rpms at 60 were around 1800.. Seemed a little high for 3.42s.

So to be sure I popped the cover off the rearend.

It was a little nasty.



Open diff??????????? Rpo codes said G80 for posi???? Darn!! Also 41/12=3.42



So I started swapping the rearend for a 01 Z71 rearend that I know has a posi and 3.73s!



The 01 even had taller/heavier duty springs a.k.a towing springs! The 01 are on the bottom and they are an 1" taller than the 06 standard springs.



I gained some lift!! Just seeing the new height... I hate the rake.. Gotta fix that somehow.



Anyways!!! To the problem.

I was PLANNING to swap the 01 rearend over to drum brakes. I actually like drums. Well first snag was when the driveshaft wouldn't bolt up.. Different u-joints...

ANYONE KNOW WHAT CONVERSION U-JOINT TO GET? Could I just swap in the rearend from the 01 ext cab z71? Only thing is that the u joint on it, one of the caps is missing, but since I don't have access to a press, I can buy a new Ujoint and take caps from it and put on the dshaft.

Also noticed that the bolt pattern location on axle shafts were different between the disc and drum set up. The disc are a diamond shape while the drum are a square patten... So won't work EDIT: I just read that bolt pattern is the same but clocked differently, not sure if that is an issue with drums if they aren't in the original orientation..?

I guess I will just swap over to disc brakes. Anyone know anyone who has a thread or has done this? Not 100% sure.

Also, I think this is the prop valve from the 01. It sucked taking it off.. So many lines! Do I need to swap it onto the 06?



Help??

[NastyBuzzard]

Anyone? I really need assistance on this one.

[95 S_Trucker]

That's not the prop valve. that's the abs unit. It has the motor, dump valves and control module. Why did you unbolt it from the truck?

I don't know the conversion u-joint. But I would swap the entire u-joint. I wouldn't take the caps off one joint and put it on the other.

The rake is because you switched springs. You could swap back to the old ones

Tow springs do not exist. There are different suspension packages. The tow package consist of a factory installed hitch and a 7 pin connector out back.

G80 is not posi. It would be a locking differential. In 10 bolts, it is prone to failure if abused slightly. It probably quit at some point and it was more cost effective to put an open carrier in. Happens all the time.


I am a little confused on the pattern on the axle shafts being different. I see you have wheels bolted on, so maybe you are talking about the housing?

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

That's not the prop valve. that's the abs unit. It has the motor, dump valves and control module. Why did you unbolt it from the truck?

I don't know the conversion u-joint. But I would swap the entire u-joint. I wouldn't take the caps off one joint and put it on the other.

The rake is because you switched springs. You could swap back to the old ones

Tow springs do not exist. There are different suspension packages. The tow package consist of a factory installed hitch and a 7 pin connector out back.

G80 is not posi. It would be a locking differential. In 10 bolts, it is prone to failure if abused slightly. It probably quit at some point and it was more cost effective to put an open carrier in. Happens all the time.


I am a little confused on the pattern on the axle shafts being different. I see you have wheels bolted on, so maybe you are talking about the housing?

Yup I learned it's the abs unit. I took it off the 01 z71 donor. I can't find a prop valve anywhere on either truck.

The bolt pattern I'm talking about is on the axle shafts. Bolt pattern is same 4 bolt but clocked differently. About 45* if I had to guess.


Idk what to do about u joint as I don't have access to a press. I can swap the 01 driveshaft onto the 06??

[NastyBuzzard]

No special springs? Why are they different? Difference is 01 was a decked out Z71 and the 06 is bare bones 4x4 work truck.

[95 S_Trucker]

The axle shaft is the long thing with splines that has the wheel studs in it. I think you are talking about the housing.

You can cut the welds and re clock them and weld them on. You will have a problem bleeding the brakes. You wont be able to get all the air out.

If you have a vise, socket set, and a torch(propane or oxy acetylene) you can replace the u joints. A ball joint press works really good too.

There are different suspension packages. Z85, Z71, and about a half dozen more. That will dictate the springs on the truck.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

The axle shaft is the long thing with splines that has the wheel studs in it. I think you are talking about the housing.

You can cut the welds and re clock them and weld them on. You will have a problem bleeding the brakes. You wont be able to get all the air out.

If you have a vise, socket set, and a torch(propane or oxy acetylene) you can replace the u joints. A ball joint press works really good too.

There are different suspension packages. Z85, Z71, and about a half dozen more. That will dictate the springs on the truck.

Yes! Axle housing! My mistake.

Unfortunately I don't have access to a welder or a torch at the moment and I need it going today.

So I'm just gonna leave rear disc brake setup on it and change everything for the disc to work?

[NastyBuzzard]

Got it all swapped in. Took a 10 minute drive, noticed a horrible burning smell. Rear ds rotor is really hot. Does that mean caliper is locked down? Bad caliper or ABS doing it maybe?

Help, got a small window to pull caliper and go get a new one.

[NastyBuzzard]

Installed new caliper and caliper bracket it. Installed it, bled it.

Once I press brake with rearend jacked up, it is very hard to turn the ds wheel. The ps spins pretty easy, but it takes a lot of force to get the ds tire to spin.

On jack stands I let the truck run in D and got tires spinning in the air. After 5 mins the ds rotor was very warm but the passenger side was still cool. I could start smelling that burning smell again.

So in conclusion, all new rotors, pads, and calipers and the DS is still not turning freely/or is sticking badly.

I also pulled the ds brake line and blew through it and sprayed brake cleaner and it pass through the line.

Help? I am pulling my hair out.

[NastyBuzzard]

Also, I can loosen the bleeder screw and the damn thing is still tough to turn. Did I get a crappy new caliper?

[NastyBuzzard]

Replaced the new caliper with a new caliper and replaced brake hose. Still wanting to stick....

Master cylinder/booster incompatible? It not pulling enough fluid back to release pressure off caliper piston? Maybe?

[NastyBuzzard]

I took a 10 minute drive last night to dump trash. When I got home neither wheel was super hot. The ds rotor maybe was just a tad hotter than ps but no burnt smell or anything... Maybe its ok?

[Vintage Windmills]

What type of parking brake is on the rear of these 1/2 tons? Could that be activating and putting some brakes on? I doubt its the valve or MC if opening the bleeder didn't help.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

What type of parking brake is on the rear of these 1/2 tons? Could that be activating and putting some brakes on? I doubt its the valve or MC if opening the bleeder didn't help.

It's the horseshoe looking one that's inside the rotor. Not the spring type on the caliper.

I currently have the ebrake cables disconnected in the cab and at the rotor so I don't think that is it. They are also both wore down to almost nothing and need to be replaced.

Still.. Who knows? Lol. No clue what's happening.

[Vintage Windmills]

Too thick of new pads? did the caliper slide on easily when you installed it?
Process of elimination, theres only a few things it could be.

[Vintage Windmills]

Just noticed your jackstands don't look that safe on ground like that. Id put some blocks under the frame to be safe.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Too thick of new pads? did the caliper slide on easily when you installed it?
Process of elimination, theres only a few things it could be.

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Just noticed your jackstands don't look that safe on ground like that. Id put some blocks under the frame to be safe.

The first "new" caliper I put on there was a little tight. I mean I just forced it on with my hand. The second "new" one was easier but the pads have been driven on. The rotors are turned pretty close to minimum allowable thickness though as well.

I am not sure. I am just worried about the master cylinder not being compatable b/c I did swap from drum to disc.

I need more drive time on the truck though to determine if the problem still exists or is as bad as it was. I am back to work and I commute in my little cobalt.


Yeah the stands do look questionable! I had more blocks and stuff under there you just couldn't see them I am guessing. I don't want to get squished! Thanks for looking out for me.

[PT'S 70 CST]

Where are you located at in Saluda. Right down the road from you in Batesburg.


PT

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by PT'S 70 CST

Where are you located at in Saluda. Right down the road from you in Batesburg.


PT

Wow!! I am over near hollywood elementary school! You? I worked at AutoZone in batesburg for like 2 years. A shocker finding someone so close to me!

[Boog]

Im not sure about these late model trucks but the master cylinder used to be different between a disc/drum setup and a disc/disc. The rear drums required a residual valve to keep a minute amount of pressure on the rear since the springs back the rear shoes off when the brake pedal is released.
This may have been suggested already.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Boog

Im not sure about these late model trucks but the master cylinder used to be different between a disc/drum setup and a disc/disc. The rear drums required a residual valve to keep a minute amount of pressure on the rear since the springs back the rear shoes off when the brake pedal is released.
This may have been suggested already.

Yes I've thought about it. That little bit of pressure may be keeping the brakes riding the rotor. Just odd only doing it to one side.

At one point I had it all ready to swap masters with the 01 donor but then realized booster was different and I would have to change it too so I put stock 06 master back on.

Be easy if they sold a master for disc/disc for 05-07 trucks.