68 axle swap and lift

[First c10]

Hello all,
So since my older son(16) got a 70 C10 my younger son(just turned 15) wanted a 68 K10 So picked up one up this weekend.
Now I have looked on the site regarding the issues with lifting a 68... but the information is all over the place.
Can anyone let me know if a 4"rough Country lift for 69-72 (or any other brand) will work and with what actual modifications are needed? I have a '73 Dana 44 that I will be swapping in to the '68
I will post pictures soon
Thanks
Scott

[morgan71]

Ok, its been a few years but I have lifted a 67 before. They have the same springs as a 68. If I remember correctly the springs are wider on the 67-68 models, they actually taper from the center out to the shackles and frame mount. Its part of how they rolled and stretched the spring, or so the local spring shop told me. Anyway, you will have to add spacers to the factory frame mounts in order to bolt up. I had new custom springs built by TULSA Spring, I took my old ones in and they made me what I wanted. If you do not have the ability to do that you can add spacers between the spring eye and frame mount in order to take up the difference. If I remember right its around 1 inch. Look at diy4x for spacer, bolts shackles and such. Hopefully someone with more recent experience will chime in. It can be done though.

[andrewmp6]

Talk to http://offroaddesign.com/ they don't have a lift listed for it but can get just about anything made you can want.

[72 Copper C-10]

Off-road designs has my vote!

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by 72 copper c-10

off-road designs has my vote!

x3

[1malo68]

I have a 68 that I wanted to do the same. I looked all over the place but I didn't find anything! The ONLY 2 ways I found was to either change the shackle mount(s) for a later model or have the springs custom made. I ended up buying a 72 frame.

[First c10]

I contacted ORD and they told me that they had tuff country springs to lift the truck and it was no big deal. But everywhere i look shows 69-72 lift and excludes 67-68. I am a little confused... well a ORD lift front and rear springs will be $1200. I guess I need to find out what the actual lengths of the springs and the Eyelets for each springs and year so maybe that will tell me what the story is behind the lift problems on this year truck(68).

[72 Copper C-10]

Originally Posted by First c10

I contacted ORD and they told me that they had tuff country springs to lift the truck and it was no big deal. But everywhere i look shows 69-72 lift and excludes 67-68. I am a little confused... well a ORD lift front and rear springs will be $1200. I guess I need to find out what the actual lengths of the springs and the Eyelets for each springs and year so maybe that will tell me what the story is behind the lift problems on this year truck(68).

The ORD springs and tuff country are no comparison. The ORD ones are definitely worth the money! After getting my set I wouldn't watse the money on anything else

[First c10]

So the ORD and the Tuff County's are 2 different springs?
When I talked to them he said he would send the correct size and that they were TC's. But the quote does not say the brand just the year and size or lift and length.
Do you mind me asking what you ordered for your application?

[andrewmp6]

I think tuff country makes them to ord specs.

[special-K]

I think they are the same spring marketed by ORD. Tuff Country springs are an excellent choice. The '68 springs are a parabolic design, like skis. The point is, off the shelf springs are made for 69-ups and all you need to do is make up the difference between the narrower springs and the wider mount. The newer axle will be no issue there, but the steering set-up is different. If he's going to want P/S now's the time to go with the later design (70-up). You also gain an adjustable drag link.

[72 Copper C-10]

Originally Posted by First c10

So the ORD and the Tuff County's are 2 different springs?
When I talked to them he said he would send the correct size and that they were TC's. But the quote does not say the brand just the year and size or lift and length.
Do you mind me asking what you ordered for your application?

Yes they are two different springs, when I ordered i told them I have a 72 k-10 small block, no which bumper or any other items like that, and 4 inch lift and they already had a spring spec. My front springs were 650 dollars but they are well worth it! My dad did the same with his 70 k-10 with a big block and he had to check the weight of the front axles and a couple other things so be prepared for that. My dad had ruff country springs before the ORD ones and he said he's not going to buy anything else besides ORD

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

I think tuff country makes them to ord specs.

Actually alcan spring makes all ORDs stuff, but i believe that tuff country and ORD have a partnership, that's why they had springs in stock.

[First c10]

OK thank you for all the comments. I have a few more questions.

1. What spacers are used to make up the difference between the spring mount width and the narrow new spring? just make custom spacers or is their a kit?
2. steering question... the steering on the 68 between the knuckles consists of 2 tie rod ends and a center section but the 73 front has 2 tie rod ends, A short one and a long one that tie together with no center section. which is better or should I keep???

I will be adding power steering to the truck as the manual box is a little worn out... Are they worth anything the manual box?

[First c10]

Anyone?

[andrewmp6]

At a 4 inch lift i would think hard on upgrading to cross over steering.

[special-K]

The 10-bolt will also have only one tie rod. But, it will have a mount hole for a steering stabilizer/damper on the driver side. If you can show pictures, it would help.

On the spacers,thick washers or even better would be thick wall pupe/washer combo, I'd guess. Washer against the bushing.

[pops45]

Check this out for pre- fabbed spacers:
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=107

[First c10]

S518- is the older style steering like what is on the 68
S818 is the newer style like on the 73-87 trucks.

Which is the better design? without going to crossover steering. this truck will not be used as a hard core trail truck.

[special-K]

I think in the SB815 picture they broke the drawing of the tie rod, but it's still one piece. The dampers weren't used till sometime in '71. Then the mount went on the axle with a clamp used on the tie rod, toward the center. On a 10-bolt the mount is in the tie rod end/driver side. I prefer this arrangement because I like to run dual (side by side) steering dampers. I also like the idea of mounting to the end that steers, rather than to the center of the rod. Seems stronger and more rigid

[First c10]

In my post #13 above question 2 I describe the 2 styles of steering from a 68 and a 73. Since I am replacing all the tie rods and sleeves etc. which style is the best to go with?
S518 style or s818 style from the above picture. I will post a few actual pictures of what I have on the truck and the parts from the 73 front axle today.
Thanks
Scott

[special-K]

Ok, the '73 axle will be a Dana44, same as back to '71 (w/disc) and '70 (w/drums), and all steering was the same. I'd go with that. Not sure which ill. is that one. I'm not seeing any difference in rod end count between the two. In post #13 both designs have two tie rod ends, but the latter has a two piece tie rod (sleeve)? I'm not familiat with that, but I'd go with the later design. On the '68, if the drag link is original design it will be a solid rod w/ends...no adjustment. The later design has a sleeve between the ends and is adjustable.

[First c10]

thanks for the comments
S818 first design is what the 1973 Dana 44 front had when I picked it up. The 1968 Dana 44 (original) is like S518 has 2 small tie rod ends and a center bar, like a long sleeve for adjustments. the question I have is what style to use between the steering knuckles. What is best the original? the first design? or Second design?
The 1973 and up doesn't have a center bar (like a sleeve) just a long tie rod end pass side and a short tie rod end on the driver side.
I plan to replace everything but want to make sure that I upgrade to the best style or design.
Sorry to beat this up just what to make sure
Scott

[MyDad'sTruck]

Great post. Going to refer to this soon as i also have a 68 that i want to lift Also would like disc brakes up front too.

[1malo68]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

At a 4 inch lift i would think hard on upgrading to cross over steering.

For years I was told the same thing---Even by ORD. But I was ordering some parts and I told Chris that it was too bad I couldn't have crossover with a 2" lift and he said it would be no problem. I ordered it and put it on the truck and it has tons of clearance. On the '73 and up is where clearance is a problem. I tried to post some pics but it keeps asking for my login over and over. Who knows?????

[msgross]

Also check the frame behind the steering box, it needs to have the raised pads to bolt the box to, if it's flat then you'll need a frame spacer kit which are usually listed for 60-66 trucks. Like this... http://www.classicperform.com/power6066.htm

You can find the adapter plate on the forum or other stores. I did this to my 68 K-10... also swapped the axle and put an add-a-leaf on the back for a 1.5" lift. Might look into power brakes since the disc setup will require new prop valve and lines anyways.