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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chanhassen, MN
Posts: 1,061
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When I first got my truck, the first thing I did was replace the old nasty steering wheel with a Grant. Well, it wasn't me, it was my husband and his friend. His friend had the tools and they got all gung ho and replaced the steering wheel while I was in the house. All was fine until the center cap popped off at 3 AM in the morning causing the wire to connect and the horn went off insistently. So my husband went out and wrapped the wire with tape to shut it up (hey, it was 3 AM in the morning...I wasn't moving
![]() Well a year later, I need my horn. People are being really stupid and I'm tired of using hand gestures to get my point across. I downloaded the installation instructions from Grants website but it's not helping me any. I have one wire that comes out of the column and one connector on a retainer type piece....looks like a donut with three holes that loosely mount over the screws in the steering wheel. The top of this piece is a tan, with the back being metal. The connector for the wire is on the top. There are no connectors on the horn button. The spring is very touchy and comes off if the horn button is removed. If I connect the wire to the connector, I get a clicking sound when I make contact from the back of the retainer to the steering wheel. Can anyone tell me what I need to do to get my horn back? This is what my steering wheel looks like:
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ChevyChic 86 Chevy K-10 If I can't be a good example, then I'll just have to be a horrible warning. "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" - Christopher Robin Last edited by chevychic; 08-20-2003 at 12:28 AM. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,680
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I wish I could help, but I bought a different wheel that had a different horn kit. My horn button has a two connectors on the back of it. No spring involved, so makes it nicer. I remember having that same wheel that you have on an old Ford truck and having shorting problems with the horn. Never did get it right so I installed a remote horn switch on the dash.
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Scott Shelbourne |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chanhassen, MN
Posts: 1,061
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The clicking sound is the relay as my lights dim slightly when I honk my horn, so I know it's getting electrical current.
I'll look into a different relay. Now, can you tell me where the relay is located? ![]()
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ChevyChic 86 Chevy K-10 If I can't be a good example, then I'll just have to be a horrible warning. "You're braver than you believe, and stronger than you seem, and smarter than you think" - Christopher Robin |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 8,855
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I have the same steering wheel in my 72. But to avoid the dreaded Grant GT horn problem, I re-routed the wiring to a separate button on the dash for the horn. I know that making a separate button for the horn isn't for everyone, but my truck is no show winner
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My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795 |
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