4 post car lift board vendors and 110 or 220

[JointTech]

anybody out there? pulling the trigger on a HD9-XW today unless I hear from a board vendor.

also whats the advantage of using 220V instead of 110? I have the option for either power type.
Seems normal wall power would be easier in the long run if I move or have 3phase instead of single phase 220. But is it going to be way slower lifting and lowering?

[ole dollor]

I would think the 220 would be better , for a car lift . not an expert just my 2 cents worth ... wish I had a lift .

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by JointTech

anybody out there? pulling the trigger on a HD9-XW today unless I hear from a board vendor.

also whats the advantage of using 220V instead of 110? I have the option for either power type.
Seems normal wall power would be easier in the long run if I move or have 3phase instead of single phase 220. But is it going to be way slower lifting and lowering?

Pretty sure you would get more feedback from vendors if you would post this in the "Vendors Marketplace" forum....

LockDoc

[JointTech]

if a mod wants to move it thats fine. I just figured theres more eyes over here.

[Aruba1]

I had a 4 post lift with 110 volt and never had any issues with it even when lifting my 2005 Dodge Ram 4 door cummins.

If the cord does not reach, just make sure to use a HD extension cord and get one as short as possible. I think the 110 would be easier in the long run and easier to sell too.

[clemsonteg]

Electrically speaking, if the 110 and 220 have the same size motor, the 110 will require twice the amperage as the 220. As long as your circuit is capable of carrying the 110 is acceptable.

[Bigdav160]

The advantage of 220v is you can run smaller wires to the unit.

[JointTech]

just ordered the 220. He says the 110 lifts 9000lbs in a minute and 30 seconds. The 220 does it in 45sec. Also the 220 is the only certified motor from bendpak. The lift is certified but not the motor. Not that I care but I guess if you had it in a working shop with osha bs it would probably matter.
Got the rolling jack tray, rolling bridge jack, aluminum ramps and the casters. Should be here first week of January.
I got it from scott at bigboysgaragetoys. called to ask some more questions and turns out he's the owner. nice guy and knew a lot about the product. actually has that model in his garage. Prices seem to be the same for bendpaks no matter where you look so I chose them for free shipping and no sales tax.

[piecesparts]

Sometimes I wish I had a four post lift on the side to park stuff on, but my two-post lift handles 8000 lbs with no issue.

[JointTech]

reasons I got a 4 post in order of importance.
I don't own my unit. I cant mount the 2 post to the floor properly and don't really know if the concrete will handle it even if I just did it without asking.

If I have to bend over theres a roughly 30% higher chance I wont do it kneeling down to get the lift arms in the right place just seems like a pain especially when working on my rice rocket daily drivers.

I got the rolling bridge lift so I can still get the wheels off the lift.

Im going to use it to store my truck up out of the way when im not working on it and then when its done when its not on its way to home depot...

[JointTech]

nice shop by the way. Im thinking I would trade width for height. (that's what she said).
above my new DIY paint booth.

[piecesparts]

I built the shop to fit the lift. The ceiling is 12 feet high and the shop is 40 X 40. The floor under the lift is 6" thick concrete. The lift came from a local car dealership that was going out of business.

[69-72]

I have a Direct Lift four poster. I have heard before that the lifting was faster with 220 so I emailed and asked them about upgrading and they told me that the 110 lifts the same speed as the 220v

[JointTech]

i wonder if its the same type wives tale as 220 costing less in power because it uses less amps. but the guy said acording to his spec sheet they list the 110 as half the speed. Maybe just bendpaks. who knows, im just pretty stoked to be getting a lift in my shop!! Almost talked me into picking it up at the LA terminal to save a few days. In the end decided I didnt want to deal with loading dock workers and a trailer through LA traffic back to the OC.

[piecesparts]

The real difference between a 110 motor or a 220 motor is the amperage draw for doing the same work. The lower the amperage, the easier on your pocket the electric bill will be. It settles on what your garage is wired and how you are set up to handle the loads.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

The real difference between a 110 motor or a 220 motor is the amperage draw for doing the same work. The lower the amperage, the easier on your pocket the electric bill will be. It settles on what your garage is wired and how you are set up to handle the loads.

There is no difference in the electric bill from 110 to 220 volts. Electric bills are computed using watts not volts. The only savings you have using the volt & amp side is material cost savings.

If you have a 400 watt light it will cost you the same amount of electric each month no matter if it is 120 volt, 208,240 or 277 volt.

If you are wiring up a new building you can put more fixtures on smaller wire at higher voltages which will save you money on building costs. If the building is existing and already has both sources there really is not much difference.

Richard

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by richard2717

There is no difference in the electric bill from 110 to 220 volts. Electric bills are computed using watts not volts. The only savings you have using the volt & amp side is material cost savings.

If you have a 400 watt light it will cost you the same amount of electric each month no matter if it is 120 volt, 208,240 or 277 volt.

If you are wiring up a new building you can put more fixtures on smaller wire at higher voltages which will save you money on building costs. If the building is existing and already has both sources there really is not much difference.

Richard

REALLY???? It all relates to the process of VARS = Volts, Amps, and Reactance. That is what the electrical grid works with and the electrical generation companies use that to measure their work on the grid. If you are drawing a high resistance, then your meter is reading that and the house load moves to your home and not on the grid. As a nuclear worker, you just gave me a pay raise. Here in about 24 hours, the grid is going to see a lot of load increase in the residential areas, but the loss of all of the industrial loads will counteract that and the grid will stay stable.
The more you use, the more the watts are changed in the formula.

1 var = (1 Volt) x (1 Amp that is 90 degrees out of phase with the 1 Volt)
var = Volts x Amperes x sine theta where theta is the phase angle between load Voltage and load Amperes.

The magnitude of var (imaginary power) is the opposite side of the power triangle formed with the magnitude of Watts (real power) as the adjacent side and the magnitude of Volt Amps (apparent power) as the hypotenuse.

[CastIron]

I've used single, two post, four post and I personally prefer a 2 post lift. They tend to raise faster and take up a lot less space. It's also easier to work on brakes and suspension.

[hounddogs!]

Originally Posted by piecesparts

REALLY???? It all relates to the process of VARS = Volts, Amps, and Reactance. That is what the electrical grid works with and the electrical generation companies use that to measure their work on the grid. If you are drawing a high resistance, then your meter is reading that and the house load moves to your home and not on the grid. As a nuclear worker, you just gave me a pay raise. Here in about 24 hours, the grid is going to see a lot of load increase in the residential areas, but the loss of all of the industrial loads will counteract that and the grid will stay stable.
The more you use, the more the watts are changed in the formula.

1 var = (1 Volt) x (1 Amp that is 90 degrees out of phase with the 1 Volt)
var = Volts x Amperes x sine theta where theta is the phase angle between load Voltage and load Amperes.

The magnitude of var (imaginary power) is the opposite side of the power triangle formed with the magnitude of Watts (real power) as the adjacent side and the magnitude of Volt Amps (apparent power) as the hypotenuse.

Wolf Creek, right?

[72BigBlockBurb]

Originally Posted by 69-72

I have a Direct Lift four poster. I have heard before that the lifting was faster with 220 so I emailed and asked them about upgrading and they told me that the 110 lifts the same speed as 220v

I'm running a standard pro-park 8 and a pro-park 8 plus Direct Lift in my shop right now. I'll be picking up a second plus sometime this next year as I need another unit to free up floor space in the 40x50. It's amazing how quick you can fill up a new shop!

I would go for the extended length and height regardless of the lift brand you buy as trucks "eat up" lift length real quick. The extra height allows you to get a truck underneath for storage. If you are planning to "stack" trucks you will probably need 14' ceilings. My '49 panel is tall enough in my 12' shop that I can probably only get my firebird or corvette under it. A pickup would allow me to go higher as I could position the cab between the trusses. Just some things to think about if you're buying your first lift.

[JointTech]

the HD9-XW supposedly will lift a dually longbed. I checked it against my friends dodge ram 2500 4x4 with 32" tires and it will fit under it with 3 inches to spare. I think unless I start working on semis or garbage trucks this should do me for life.

[JointTech]

oh I got confirmation of shipping on my lift.
I think I'll have the only RED bendpak on earth. I ordered blue because it was standard. Red and Black are $100 extra. But they were out of blue and black and offered me a red for no additional charge so I wouldn't have to wait until mid Jan for it to ship.
I guess it will match my cherry picker and engine stand. Maybe Ill wrap some wreath around it and it will be Christmas all year.

[69-72]

I have the pro park 9 plus and I couldn't imagine have anything smaller. The tires on my Blazer hang off of the sides of the ramps by about an inch.

Originally Posted by 72BigBlockBurb

I'm running a standard pro-park 8 and a pro-park 8 plus Direct Lift in my shop right now. I'll be picking up a second plus sometime this next year as I need another unit to free up floor space in the 40x50. It's amazing how quick you can fill up a new shop!

I would go for the extended length and height regardless of the lift brand you buy as trucks "eat up" lift length real quick. The extra height allows you to get a truck underneath for storage. If you are planning to "stack" trucks you will probably need 14' ceilings. My '49 panel is tall enough in my 12' shop that I can probably only get my firebird or corvette under it. A pickup would allow me to go higher as I could position the cab between the trusses. Just some things to think about if you're buying your first lift.

[JointTech]

Lift showed up today. Its BLUE!!! I was kind of bummed about getting a red one and I guess they found a blue one. Its funny the build tag on it says 1/2/15. hot off the presses.
Got the bulk of the heavy stuff put together today. Got a lot of cables and pulleys and air lines to run still.
feels a little wobbly but i have heard other people say theirs feels wobbly when unloaded. I the cables should pull it tight.
anyway heres some pics of it coming together. Kind of funny part is the forklift battery died right as we got the last part pulled just off the truck. He had to pull off while we let it charge up enough to get it inside.
unboxing


dead battery


crossmembers and posts together


locked in up in the air. cherry picker and forklift under just in case.


Electrician is coming tomorrow to put me in a 220 dryer outlet and an extension cord. Hopefully I can get it done and tested tomorrow. Pretty exciting day in the shop.