engine years. options

[Marty68]

Hi, my name is Marty. i have a stalled out project in my garage. i bought a southern 68 short step.I was told it had a runnable 350 th350. got it home no compression ... and it was a 305. pulled them out and discovered the snout on torque converter BROKEN in half... not likely done by the 305. i disasembled truck welded in rockers and corners. i bought and never installed a used 350 that had low end knock local engine builder here replaced bearings and put in new used crank. said "it has a cam in it". i bought "used may be good th350" after buying a different house getting a better garage and changing wifes. (new one is awesome old one was nuts). i am contemplating selling 350/350 that i never installed and tackling an injected swap. my rear gears are 3.08.
question is... if i source an engine from car-part.com what year(s) 4.8 or 5.3. or 6.0 should i look at. is there a reason why not go with newer say 2010-2013 low mileage stuff? seems i have been searching reading for ever. i just want ease or assembly. drivability and mpg. i believe i can handle reworking harness welding bung on original tank. etc.

[HemiChallenger71]

http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.php

http://chevythunder.com/ls1_page_1.htm

[Marty68]

thanks

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Marty68

is there a reason why not go with newer say 2010-2013 low mileage stuff? seems i have been searching reading for ever. i just want ease or assembly. drivability and mpg. i believe i can handle reworking harness welding bung on original tank. etc.

There are things like BCM and Trans control that start to get more involved with the late model stuff. Depending on the scope of your project, these may or may not become issues. There is also AFM/DOD, which has its own individual set of mechanical and tuning concerns (should you want to mess with it).

For most folks, finding a GENIII is the "easiest" and most-similar to things your used to when working on a vehicle. GenIV isn't much harder, but there are a few additional costs depending again, on what choices you make for the build. The "newer" you go, the more technicalities you run into. A GEN III will run with remarkably few inputs, while the newest iterations require a more complex system to function "as intended".

[Marty68]

br3w that is what i thought, the ls fad may fade away as low mileage ones get harder to find.

[truckdude239]

I used an 04 4.8 with 4l60e got it out of an 04 sliverado

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Marty68

br3w that is what i thought, the ls fad may fade as low mileage ones get harder to find.

Doubtful, it will just move on to the newer LT1/Ecotec genV engines. I would bet money on it!

[BR3W CITY]

Its really just that the average level of comfort with the "fiddly bits" of the computer control needs to increase. 10 years ago LS swaps scared ppl, now they are commonplace. I can tell you from some of the things I've seen in new version of HPT, and when working with the new Delphi control systems, there is a LOT we don't know.

Once people start to accept that learning ECM interfaces is parts of the "new" hotrodding, the easier it will be. Import kids have had to face it for years (compare the user friendliness of less-open ECM systems).

As we move further into direct injection, and things like servo/solenoid valvetrains, it will only get crazier. But on the plus side, look at the power we are achieving. Its easier and cheaper today to own a 9 second car than its ever been. I know people driving cars that would have been NHRA record holders a mere 10 years ago, as street cars.

The new LT series engines are phenomenal, and the few little tidbits I've been dangled about the yet-unscheduled c7 ZR1 are just scary. 800hp production cars aren't stretching its potential. Nostradamus time; based on what I've seen, we'll have the chance to buy a 1khp production car from GM before 2020.

[Marty68]

can i get your opinions please. i sourced a good compression 5.3 250k miles. 2005 wrecked avalanche. computer harness and brain box. dvc. and a trans from a different truck $1500. i have a core 305/ th 350 and "good used" th350 and recently rebuild 350 what are those worth and is $1500 a decent price? have read TONS lately.

[Marty68]

a couple pics of the 68

[Marty68]

one more

[ls1nova71]

I would pass on that engine, $1500 for one with 250k miles, and the trans wasn't from it originally just seems crazy high to me. Keep looking and you should be able to find a complete one for the same money with at least 100k fewer miles on it. Just be patient.

[jessemthompson]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

I would pass on that engine, $1500 for one with 250k miles, and the trans wasn't from it originally just seems crazy high to me. Keep looking and you should be able to find a complete one for the same money with at least 100k fewer miles on it. Just be patient.

I agree to pass on this one. You can find a much better deal and a complete package from 1 vehicle.

[Marty68]

just saw older 99 140k miles. 5.3 with computer and harness 500. no trans. i will continue to look. not in a hurry. plan is finish painting 91. before spring. then get frame finished on 68. may just reassemble as is with new brake parts. to drive or install spindles springs disk brakes that are boxed up.

[BR3W CITY]

If you can keep an eye on car-part (to see what scrapyards have), right around March seems to be a good time. Apparently a lot of vehicles get totaled mid-winter, which means an influx of good used parts a month or two later.

[Marty68]

what is your opinions on this http://lacrosse.craigslist.org/pts/4849175911.html
96k miles 4.8 auto. he wants 1500 for rolling chassis. 2k as is clean title. cant tell what it would take to make it drivable

[jessemthompson]

That looks like a great deal. I would buy the whole truck. That way you're not looking for odds and ends.

[Marty68]

looked at it. NICE NICE truck. except it need rad core support air bag hood and fenders. bumper and frame are good. offered 1800 cash for the whole truck. he said no. he will contact me when he starts taking it apart to part it. contemplating fixing it to drive. fpind clip $300 i dont need 3 disasembled trucks

[Marty68]

the guy changed his mind. he wont sell truck complete, or a rolling chassis he is putting a duramax diesel in it and drag racing it. this means i get complete dash to O2 sensors, harness computer, fan to rear end 93k miles $1000. delivered.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Marty68

the guy changed his mind. he wont sell truck complete, or a rolling chassis he is putting a duramax diesel in it and drag racing it. this means i get complete dash to O2 sensors, harness computer, fan to rear end 93k miles $1000. delivered.

That's a pretty good deal, especially if the miles are legit. Did you see the odometer to confirm?

[BR3W CITY]

If the miles are legit and you don't see any warning signs (broken front accessories, obsvious crack in oil pan etc) then I'd say go for it.

[Marty68]

i heard it run. it was a deer hit. not turned into ins. the only light on dash was airbag light

[Marty68]

ls1nova71. i really admire your builds. have read rusty twice but still havent absorbed it all yet
i plan on using stock tank and building a sump like you did. would silver solder be a good way to attach sump to tank?
and yes i heard it run it didnt have piston slap legit miles

[Marty68]

do you guys know what motor mounts these are. truck came originaly with 6 cyl. i got it with a 80s 305

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Marty68

ls1nova71. i really admire your builds. have read rusty twice but still havent absorbed it all yet
i plan on using stock tank and building a sump like you did. would silver solder be a good way to attach sump to tank?
and yes i heard it run it didnt have piston slap legit miles

Thanks for the compliment, but I honestly don't know enough about silver soldering to answer your question. I MIG'd mine, but TIG would be better. If you could weld it, but aren't sure if your welding is good enough not to leak, I would think you could solder over the weld to seal it up.