Moog k6124 ball joint prob - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TrkEnvy · 12-27-2014, 05:51 PM

So I searched the website for this answer and did not find anyone else having this problem. So here is my question. I am trying to install the upper ballpoints I bought into my upper a arms and everything fits except for the boot. It has a small raised rubber lip at the top where it sandwiches between the arm and the ball joint. I am lost. I do not want to tear this boot but I wanna install the ball joints as its holding up my progress. Truck is a 1971 c10 and the ball joints are moog k6124s I bought from rock auto. Any insight would help me greatly.

Tx Firefighter · 12-28-2014, 07:44 AM

The boot does not sandwich.

I goes beneath the arm.

From top to bottom, it should be

ball joint
arm
boot

Install the bolts pointed up with the nuts on top of the ball joint and the bolt heads on the bottom.

Poor picture of my truck but you can see what I'm talking about it you study it.

TrkEnvy · 12-29-2014, 01:17 PM

Awesome. Ok thank you very much!

Tx Firefighter · 12-29-2014, 01:59 PM

Be sure and heed the words about orienting the bolts with heads underneath and nuts on top. Study my picture and you'll see the close proximity of the bolt heads to the (delicate) rubber boots. If you do it the other way, the exposed ends of the bolts will abrade holes in the rubber.

Usually there is a little piece of paper inside of the boxes with the ball joints that warns of the proper way to do it. Sometimes they're lost though and guys do it wrong and wind up tearing up the boots on their expensive new ball joints.

TrkEnvy · 12-29-2014, 08:46 PM

Thanks for the warning Kevin. Yeah there was no paper and this is my first frame up. Thanks again. Brock

Bobbles in NH · 01-17-2016, 01:55 PM

I had the same question as TrkEnvy on replacing ball joints. Thanks to TxFirefighter for answering the question and the photo. The only thing I did differently was to put a little RTV between the layers of the "sandwich". My thinking is that it may help to keep dirt out because the surfaces involved are stamped and not machined.

12-27-2014, 05:51 PM	#1
TrkEnvy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 264	Moog k6124 ball joint prob So I searched the website for this answer and did not find anyone else having this problem. So here is my question. I am trying to install the upper ballpoints I bought into my upper a arms and everything fits except for the boot. It has a small raised rubber lip at the top where it sandwiches between the arm and the ball joint. I am lost. I do not want to tear this boot but I wanna install the ball joints as its holding up my progress. Truck is a 1971 c10 and the ball joints are moog k6124s I bought from rock auto. Any insight would help me greatly. __________________ 1971 C10 - LWB shortened to SWB, welded in my C notch, reinforced trailing arms with 3/16 plate, new cpp 5" rear drop springs, 2" drop blocks, ece super panhard kit. Cpp drop spindles, 2 inch front springs, 5.3/4L80E I call it Bruce Banner..

12-28-2014, 07:44 AM	#2
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Moog k6124 ball joint prob The boot does not sandwich. I goes beneath the arm. From top to bottom, it should be ball joint arm boot Install the bolts pointed up with the nuts on top of the ball joint and the bolt heads on the bottom. Poor picture of my truck but you can see what I'm talking about it you study it. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-29-2014, 01:17 PM	#3
TrkEnvy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 264	Re: Moog k6124 ball joint prob Awesome. Ok thank you very much! __________________ 1971 C10 - LWB shortened to SWB, welded in my C notch, reinforced trailing arms with 3/16 plate, new cpp 5" rear drop springs, 2" drop blocks, ece super panhard kit. Cpp drop spindles, 2 inch front springs, 5.3/4L80E I call it Bruce Banner..

12-29-2014, 01:59 PM	#4
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Moog k6124 ball joint prob Be sure and heed the words about orienting the bolts with heads underneath and nuts on top. Study my picture and you'll see the close proximity of the bolt heads to the (delicate) rubber boots. If you do it the other way, the exposed ends of the bolts will abrade holes in the rubber. Usually there is a little piece of paper inside of the boxes with the ball joints that warns of the proper way to do it. Sometimes they're lost though and guys do it wrong and wind up tearing up the boots on their expensive new ball joints. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-29-2014, 08:46 PM	#5
TrkEnvy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 264	Re: Moog k6124 ball joint prob Thanks for the warning Kevin. Yeah there was no paper and this is my first frame up. Thanks again. Brock __________________ 1971 C10 - LWB shortened to SWB, welded in my C notch, reinforced trailing arms with 3/16 plate, new cpp 5" rear drop springs, 2" drop blocks, ece super panhard kit. Cpp drop spindles, 2 inch front springs, 5.3/4L80E I call it Bruce Banner..

01-17-2016, 01:55 PM	#6
Bobbles in NH Registered User Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Guild, NH Posts: 1	Re: Moog k6124 ball joint prob I had the same question as TrkEnvy on replacing ball joints. Thanks to TxFirefighter for answering the question and the photo. The only thing I did differently was to put a little RTV between the layers of the "sandwich". My thinking is that it may help to keep dirt out because the surfaces involved are stamped and not machined.



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