Can crate engines run ethanol? And...

[ubtripn]

I just installed a mystery crate 350 in my 68, runs very strong and fast. So far I have only put non-ethanol in it because I fear the Edlebrock will do what my lawnmowers do and gm up. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Also, my inside door handle moves but no longer opens the door but the outside handle works, I haven't taken it apart yet but is it just a shaft re-connection? What would be your best guess?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[88Ironduke]

Can't say anything about the door handle problem but your ethanol question is easy, yes. Your carb will require modifications to run ethanol. Ethanol E85 requires more fuel (about 25% more over gas) to properly combust and maintain air fuel ratios that are good for long engine life. Larger jets, power valves etc are required but conversion kits are available. The E85 is extremely good at attracting water and breaking down in the tank so its not something you leave in a gas tank for the winter like a lawn mower. Not sure what the end result is to that break down process. The downside is you use more ethanol to run your car so mileage takes a hit, but I hear its well under a dollar per gallon...? Not sure the accuracy on that. Ethanol isn't going away any time soon.

Embrace the suck.
Paul

[ubtripn]

Got it, thanks. I hope I can do the conversion. =)

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

I just installed a mystery crate 350 in my 68, runs very strong and fast. So far I have only put non-ethanol in it because I fear the Edlebrock will do what my lawnmowers do and gm up. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Also, my inside door handle moves but no longer opens the door but the outside handle works, I haven't taken it apart yet but is it just a shaft re-connection? What would be your best guess?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

I'd take the door panel off and check the linkage between the handle crank and the latch assembly. The outside handle pushes straight into a tab on the latch to open, the inside handle has a linkage going to a different area on the latch. I think the chances of it being anything other than the linkage are low, I doubt if the latch is bad but I suppose it could be; I cannot visualize if that's possible even.

I've done carbs all my life, understand how ethanol requires more fuel to obtain the correct air/fuel ratio, but I would not attempt a conversion at this time. I believe certain passages on the carb body may need to be machined, and I think that makes it an E-85 carburetor that cannot easily be configured to go back to gas. I gleaned this info from the following link, they offer E-85 carbs for sale. They also offer to convert your Edelbrock carb to E-85, but make it clear that once converted, you can't go back. I'd like to see what it is they do and make my own judgement.

If I ever go E-85, I will likely get one of my carbs converted, then tear it down and give it a good looking-over before I install it to see what they do.

http://www.e85carbs.com/EdelbrockE85carbs.htm

FMI, what compression ratio is your "mystery crate engine"? Is it a daily driver?

I think if it's a daily driver, you will likely have less problems with gum up and moisture accumulation.

I think if the car will only be driven occasionally, you might need to drain the fuel and get used to taking the carb apart and cleaning it. This holds true even running gas if it sits very long at a time.

Make sure all your fuel pump and hoses are rated for ethanol.

[mechanicalman]

This company also offers other carbs for E-85, for instance Holley "do it yourself" kits. Click on the "tune info worksheet" to see the info they require to get you the right carb or parts.
http://www.e85carbs.com/index.htm

[67ChevyRedneck]

I assume you're referring E10 or E15 (typically called "winter blend" fuel in most places, but I believe will be law to be used year round in a year or two, but most states use it year round now anyway) for your lawnmowers. If left to sit, yeah, it causes problems, but there is stabilizers for it now if your stuff will sit, or simply drain the tank and run it till it dies. If you're putting E85 in your lawn equipment, that's a huge no no and your fault, not the E85.

As far as your truck goes, it can run E10 fine. Again, the problems arise when vehicles sit for weeks or months. I've run E10 in my edelbrock 350 for many years and tons of miles. I recently took it apart to rebuild it and there were no signs of deterioration.

E85, no, as mentioned above, it will only run if you have a carb set up for it. Also, E85 works a lot better in higher compression motors. Also, you can not have any rubber lines in your fuel system as the E85 will deteriorate them. You would need to use steel lines from carb to tank.

[ubtripn]

Thanks everybody, sincerely.

In my lawnmower I leave the gas in ALL WINTER =) Then start it in the spring but it is non-ethanol gas. Now I won't though.

Thanks again all.

[ubtripn]

I don't know my compression ration yet but I drive it about once a week but am thinking about driving it more with gas prices where they are. The person I bought it from said it was a 383 stroker with roller cams - I have no idea what that is BUT, it is a screamer. If it has been over-bored I would not be surprised, I will get some pictures up soon. I paid $1000 for the engine. (Tranny is a 700R4)

[ubtripn]

I forgot to mention that here in Boise ID E10 is the most it goes.

[ubtripn]

Thanks again everybody!

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by ubtripn

I just installed a mystery crate 350 in my 68, runs very strong and fast. So far I have only put non-ethanol in it because I fear the Edlebrock will do what my lawnmowers do and gm up. Does anybody have any experience with this?

Also, my inside door handle moves but no longer opens the door but the outside handle works, I haven't taken it apart yet but is it just a shaft re-connection? What would be your best guess?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Ethanol attacks rubber so every scrap of it must be changed out. Lines, filter connections and that includes power valves in the Carb. You can get the E85 carb kits from summit, and they also have the hose.

[Kennuck]

Your door handle problem is likely the latch. Mine did this too, drivers side only as it sees the most use. If you look inside the door and follow the rod that goes from the inside door handle to the latch you will see a little lever that the rod actuates. The pivot of this lever becomes very sloppy on the pin that it pivots on and won't let it disengage the latch.

Take the latch out of the door, you will see that this pin has been staked in an X pattern to mushroom the head and hold the pivot together, like a rivet almost. Put the latch in a vise and crush this pin down to re-form the mushroom on the end of the pin. Be careful and go a little at a time it crushes pretty easy and if you make it too tight the pivot lever won't return on its own. Did this to mine and it works great now.

Good luck.

[ubtripn]

Perfect - exactly what I needed to know - Thanks!