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#1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Gig harbor washington
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frame rivets
Can I put new rivets in the frame
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1970 chevy short box c10 factory 402 big block with AC 2008 chevy silverado regular cab short bed lowered 1990 454ss 52,000 miles 5/6 drop |
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#2 |
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Location: Tucson, AZ USA
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Re: frame rivets
If you have airtools: rivet hammer, bucking bar and a hot forge, then sure, why not?
Most of us replace them with Grade 8 nuts and bolts [not to forget washers and lockwashers, and double-nut 'em if there's room] and call it good.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#3 |
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Re: frame rivets
Yes you can, I've done it, but it's not easy !
Gary
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#4 |
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Re: frame rivets
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#5 |
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Re: frame rivets
Do you think a frame shop would do it
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1970 chevy short box c10 factory 402 big block with AC 2008 chevy silverado regular cab short bed lowered 1990 454ss 52,000 miles 5/6 drop |
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#6 |
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Re: frame rivets
Certainly. It's your money. IMHO the Grade 8 bolts are better: you can tighten them up yourself in the boonies, if they work loose. If the hot rivets work loose, its back to the shop.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#7 | |
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
Also - 3/8 bolts were used as a repair for missing/miss hit rivets on the assembly line.
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#8 |
SWB 4x4 Collector
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Re: frame rivets
Keith, was 3/8 the rivet size? They seem a little loose and the shank seems just a touch bigger. Looks like they were in between 3/8-7/16. I bought a box of 7/16 solid rivets for my crew cab build. Figured I would just drill up to the next size as the 3/8 rivets seem to "fall in." Trevor
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#9 |
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brookings, SD
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Re: frame rivets
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the rivets expand inside too don't they? I was under the impression that they go in loose, and as the head is mushroomed that also expands the inside of the rivet which pulls everything into proper alignment. What I am trying to say is that as you mushroom the head, you are also squeezing the two rivet ends together which expands the center section of the rivet.
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#10 |
All about them K’s
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Re: frame rivets
I can't speak for rivets but I can say that when I used to work in a couple different body shops once in a while we'd have a truck come in that had a spring hanger or something like that knocked off. We always used grade 8s for the repair.
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#11 | |
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
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TREVOR ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624819 ![]() ![]() :2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (daily driver) WTB: 1968-70 Cruise Control Lever |
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#12 |
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Re: frame rivets
OK. You have destroyed yet another assembly line illusion of mine. The truth shall set us free. My point was that the 3/8'' bolt was better than a rivet in the aftermarket.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#13 |
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Re: frame rivets
I have repaced the rivetsfor the frame stiffener on my 69 C/20 (trailing arm suspension) and they were 7/16 is .4375 the holes i put rivits in where about 27/64 = .422 so i got an 11 mm reamer ground to .431 and the 7/16 bolt fits great. It's a bit of a pain but worth it!
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#14 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hoytsville, Utah
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
![]() This is why-rivet missed the hole in the X-member: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#15 | ||
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
![]() Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something... Quote:
K
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#16 | |
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
I'm not sure that rivet was ever bucked on right. A buddy welded the bracket back together, then I threaded the 7/16 bolts into the holes. It was a tight fit, but 40+ years of rattling around the Southwest deserts enlarged the hole somewhat. No need for the special tool J-5729 Reamer. Although I may have used the 1/2'' breaker bar. I sort of used the bolt threads for a tap. Threaded it thru, then backed it out again and assembled with washers and lockwashers. Fixed the bracket, new tires and I was back on the road. Before and After pix below: ![]()
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#17 |
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Location: Motor City
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Re: frame rivets
I followed my truck down the line as it was being built. Since I knew I was going to be lowering my truck I asked the assemblers if they would use all bolts on my spring hangers.
They wouldn't do it. ![]()
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#18 | |
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Re: frame rivets
Quote:
Unfortunately it looks like the frames are received already put together so I didn't see any loose parts down there. Seemed like a good idea at the time. K
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Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ Last edited by Keith Seymore; 01-06-2015 at 12:29 PM. |
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#19 |
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Re: frame rivets
I believe the original frame rivets were 11/32, very difficult to find, not sure if anyone even makes that size any long. So the next size up is 7/16, whether you use rivets or grade 8 bolts. If you go the rivet route there's a couple of rivet mfg.’s that have instructions on their web sites as how to install them.
They need to be cut to a certain length, metal thickness + a certain amount for peening. You also need the tools and an oxygen/acetylene torch. Bolts are much easier, but the rivets done right look factory. Gary PS: I bought a big box of rivets and have many left over.
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