Rear drop question

[bbcmudtruck]

I have 2.5 drop spindles as well as 3" springs up front, for a total of 5.5. How much drop do I need for the rear to have a level, or near level ride height? I'm currently doing a frame off and have swapped from leaf spring frame to a coil frame. So I don't have any of the body on the frame to see where I'm at. I already have a new ECE rear drop kit, IE. rear arms, drop member, shock re-locator brackets, shocks, shock cross member, as well as 6" springs. I have also welded a c-notch in. Can I achieve a level ride with a static drop? Or do I need to buy some 2.5" front springs? I will be running 18" wheels as well. Need anymore info, let me know. Thank you!!

[PGSigns]

Well it will all depend on the finished truck. What the front and rear weights end up being and how the springs settle once driven some will tell the tale. Right now just no good way to tell.
Jimmy

[bbcmudtruck]

Fair enough. My initial plan was to assemble it and see what it needed, however I was thinking 1.5 or 2" blocks for the rear were going to be a good starting point. In order to have a nearly level ride with a 5.5 front drop, I'd want 7.5 or 8 in the rear correct?

[Sean1985]

I did a 5.5/8 and it has a very slight rake. Damn near level. Running a 400 sbc 350 trans. 3" cpp front springs and ece 6"'rear with 2" blocks.

[bbcmudtruck]

Great news! I'm running 496, however I'm running aluminum heads, intake, etc.. should be close to the same weight as a cast iron small block as far as weight goes. Any pics? Thanks!

[Sean1985]

I don't have any pics. Had most of it together and then took it all apart. You know the normal build it, break it down, change it, build it.

[Mike C]

My truck has 4.5" front, 6" rear drop and has a slight rake to the front. But that rake comes from 27" front tires and 29" rears. Very pleased with the stance.

[chevyrestoguy]

I'm dropped 7" in both the front and rear, but due to differences in the tire heights, I am not level. Here's my combo:
Front: 1979 C10 front suspension, 3" drop spindles, 1 coil removed, 2" chassis Z, wheelbase moved forward 1" to center the wheels in the front fenders, lower control arms moved 3/4" forward to gain caster. Front wheels 15x6, tires, 215/60-15. Total drop: 7

Rear: 1979 C10 12-bolt narrowed 3", 5" drop coil, 2" block, ECE Super Track Bar, shocks relocated, forward trailing arm brackets flipped, frame is C-notched. heels 15x8.5, tires 265/70-15. Total drop: 7

[BossHogg69]

Here is a pic from my initial mockup assembly before I sent mine in for paint. It is a 4.5/6 drop (CPP 2" spring, 2.5" spindle up front, 6" spring rear). 18" wheels, 245/40 up front, 335/30 out back. I am also running an aluminum headed BB, but in first pic I just have the body panels on, and drivetrain installed, no interior parts.


The second pic probably won't do you much good, but I ended up cutting a half a coil up front and putting in a 1" spacer out back (for a total of 5.5/7) now that I've started reassembly, because I wanted to close up the fender/tire gap but I don't have the body panels mounted up yet to show. You can tell a little difference with the inner fenders as to how the gap between the tire is a little smaller

[JAC10K]

Add two inches to what you've done in the front and that will give you a pretty level truck.

[Mike C]

Finally got pics from mine today. Front is lowered about 4 3/4" and rear 7" via a flip kit. Tires in front are 27" tall and rears are 29". Has just a slight forward rake which I was going for.

[bbcmudtruck]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help! I'm putting a nasty 496 in it, how safe is adding 2" rear blocks? I don't have any plans on going to a strip, but I am going to drive it like I stole it from time to time.

[Mike C]

I would not do blocks if there was any way around it. They put additional leverage on the suspension components that you can avoid.

[JAC10K]

Do it right and do it once!