Cam change.

[TobyArnot]

I admit I'm old school and it's been a long time since I built any motors, so here goes. I have a 350/260 crate that cries out for more camshaft. Here's my question : Do you still have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off? That has always been a pain!

[mud.man.rj]

I don't drop it, just remove the 2 larger bolts from timing cover and at least 3 per side of the smaller ones and pry it down a bit, has always worked for me. Just a bit of a pain the get the front oil pan seal back in, takes patience but works.

[geezer#99]

I do the same but I cut the corners off (at a 45 degree angle)on the inside lip that holds the seal in place. That way the seal stays in the groove and the cover pops in place.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by TobyArnot

I admit I'm old school and it's been a long time since I built any motors, so here goes. I have a 350/260 crate that cries out for more camshaft. Here's my question : Do you still have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off? That has always been a pain!

Everybody has their own way of doing things, and if it works then it's right but also some other people do it different.

If you are leaving the pan on (loosened as recommended), and if you can get some replacement dowel pins for the timing cover or some good roll pins, it's much easier to get the timing cover back on if you remove the dowel pins. Then you have to pry the cover downward and put the dowel pins back in (two man job). Of course you will need a timing cover gasket set that includes a new front pan rubber seal if your engine has been ran much and you will need a tube of silicone sealer.

Have you already installed the engine or just purchased it?

If you have not installed it yet, I'd pull the pan clear off and install a 1pc rubber/steel fel pro gasket and a 2 pc timing cover.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/F...products/1216/
http://www.competitionproducts.com/2.../#.VLIg5k10wu4
Let me know if you use a 2 pc cover I'll tell you how to keep it from leaking (easy).

I'm interested in what cam you are thinking of, and some details on the vehicle like is it C10, C20, or 4WD, rear end gear ratio, type of transmission, power brakes, headers/duals?

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.VLIinU10wu4

http://www.competitionproducts.com/H.../#.VLIiM010wu4

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet

(my favorite)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../#.VLIixk10wu4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-DELPHI-L...662d12&vxp=mtr

[TobyArnot]

I have about 6K miles on the motor. Truck is a C-10,short stepper with a 3:08 gear and 200R4 O/D trans. Edelbrock Performer with a small Holley Street Avenger carb. Ram horn manifolds with twin Dynomaxs at the rear bumper. It is a daily driver, so I don't want to go overboard with the cam. Just something similar to the 350/290 cam. A little more off-idle torque in the 1500-2500 rpm range. A little "bumpy" idle would've hurt either. I appreciate all the tips. I've never tried removing the dowel pins. Thank sounds intriguing. I am going to start looking for a cam grind and just might take a stab at a change.

Thanks for the comments.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by TobyArnot

I have about 6K miles on the motor. Truck is a C-10,short stepper with a 3:08 gear and 200R4 O/D trans. Edelbrock Performer with a small Holley Street Avenger carb. Ram horn manifolds with twin Dynomaxs at the rear bumper. It is a daily driver, so I don't want to go overboard with the cam. Just something similar to the 350/290 cam. A little more off-idle torque in the 1500-2500 rpm range. A little "bumpy" idle would've hurt either. I appreciate all the tips. I've never tried removing the dowel pins. Thank sounds intriguing. I am going to start looking for a cam grind and just might take a stab at a change.

Thanks for the comments.

Be careful with the dowel pins, if they are stubborn don't damage them to the point of no return. Best if you have a collet style puller, only a few mechanics have that. Put a good set of vice grips on the outer end and if you can't get the pin to turn then leave it in. You can then either dress it down or shorten it. If you want before you remove the cover check to see how much you can shorten them so you know what you are up against.

Check out this discussion:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/archiv.../t-174413.html

350-290 cam is a little too much for what is in reality a 7.8:1 compression engine plus it's not a split duration cam so it's far from ideal for your engine as it will not build cylinder pressure soon enough for that engine. Hard to understand why GM chose to use it for that without smaller chamber heads.

Any cam that will give you any "bump" at idle is going to hurt the off-idle torque at 1500 and not improve the torque much if any at 2500.

The cams I listed will all pretty much fill the bill, but for your gear ratio the elgin (the biggest one) I'd not use it unless you replace the head gaskets with thin steel shim, as the reviews on the Elgin cam say that on your exact engine it does take a little away from the bottom end.

Actually, replacing the head gaskets would be a good idea regardless what cam you pick. While you are doing the cam, just remove the ex manifolds and then it's a matter of heads and head bolts. This will bump the compression about .4 plus it will give you some quench action that's good for response and mileage.

2 of these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...make/chevrolet

1 can spray copper-coat.

An exhaust cross-over pipe will give you a noticeable low RPM boost, just enough you can feel the difference and even better with a good flowing enclosed fresh air intake system.

For your set-up I'd go with this cam
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lu...make/chevrolet

And these lifters, they are the very best for durability.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-DELPHI-L...mtr&rmvSB=true

If you want a bumpy idle (bigger cam) and retain what torque you have now, you would need smaller chamber heads, like 87-91 Z-28/Formula Firebird, Vortec or some modified 305 heads from Aerohead. Stay away from "swirl port" heads.

[mud.man.rj]

I totally agree with Mechanicalman, the cam he picked is about the most you would want to go with especially with the highway gears you won't have great bottom end but great top end, the 200R4 will help some on the bottom end. The metal head gasket with copper spray is a good idea if you want to go that far, will help for sure. Not sure if you have a stall convertor or not, a 2,400 stall would make a world of difference with the poor gear ratio for take off and would help get the cam to work a bit better getting into it's bottom end range. Trucks are not light and need all they can to get them moving off the line.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by mud.man.rj

I totally agree with Mechanicalman, the cam he picked is about the most you would want to go with especially with the highway gears you won't have great bottom end but great top end, the 200R4 will help some on the bottom end. The metal head gasket with copper spray is a good idea if you want to go that far, will help for sure. Not sure if you have a stall convertor or not, a 2,400 stall would make a world of difference with the poor gear ratio for take off and would help get the cam to work a bit better getting into it's bottom end range. Trucks are not light and need all they can to get them moving off the line.

Well he's right there, even has the rockers loose, no tiresome header bolts just ram's horns and all that will come apart easy after only 6,000 miles.

Yes and with the lockup converter on the 2004R you don't have to worry about the stall speed exceeding the cruise RPM as we know that will burn the trans up on highway cruise. Chug-a-lug! LOL as we pass the gas pump!

With that trans I'd like to see him go like 3.42-3.55 gears as he could keep his 3 series carrier.

[mud.man.rj]

Same gear ratio's I thought and as mentioned same carrier not cost effective too with only a gear set and crush sleeve needed plus some synthetic gear oil and would put the cam in the perfect spot even without the stall.
I always use roller rockers too for a bit better bottom end, friction sucks up power, even swapping to electric fans takes a bit more parisitic loss off the engine and a clutch fan sucks up about 18hp, less friction better bottom end and better fuel economy too.