Ignition Switch/ Cylinder Jammed Up/ Bad Connection

[popsthebuilder]

Been some time. I'll get right to it. My 73 C20 wont stay running. Since I bought the truck I could always remove the cylinder from the truck even with it running. Then the indicator lights started to stay on even once the key was in the run position. I would have to turn the key back to get the indicator lights off. I could feel a click once that started happening. It stopped doing that and I began having to keep the key turned almost to the start position to keep the truck running.

So since I could just slide the old cylinder out I took it out and replaced it with a new one without inspecting the hole or checking proper procedure and presto! The new one is jammed in and doing the same thing. How can I get this thing out? I removed wheel and turn signal switch. I removed 4 bolts that seemed to hold the outermost part of the steering column together and the cylinder but nothing comes all the way apart.

Please help! What can be done at this point? What am I doing wrong? Any useful insight is appreciated.

[slotard]

Is your column tilt or not?

It's pretty screwy, you have to punch a hole through a thin part of the casting to get to the release mechanism if it isn't tilt.

[popsthebuilder]

It isn't tilt. no offense but that sounds screwy.

[ray_mcavoy]

There is a slot in the upper part of the steering column housing where you can insert a small screwdriver, punch, etc. to depress the latching tang that holds the lock cylinder in place.

And slotard is correct ... that slot is often covered over with a bit of casting flash (excess metal) that you have to punch through first.

Here is a link with more details and a drawing that shows the location of the slot --> http://www.justanswer.com/gm/4uu4j-g...ey-switch.html

[popsthebuilder]

Tang was already up.I depressed it down with bolts in and out. The cylinder didn't move. I really think that it's hung up some how. I have extreme difficulty turning the key back.

[slotard]

It is absolutely screwy. I had to do it myself not too long ago.

You might consider trying to find a tilt column at a junkyard. That's what I did in the end, as mine wasn't working right with a new cylinder. I think I paid around $80 + a new cylinder, and now have a tilt column which is a nice upgrade.

[popsthebuilder]

I looked at the picture and read the instructions. I'm gonna pull it all apart again and see if there is something I missed, or casting flash in the area the link described. Thanks.

[slotard]

When they say "casting flash" understand there may not be a hole at all.



You can see it there, down/left of the threaded boss.

[cadillac_al]

I just spent a few hours getting a lock cylinder out and it can be tricky. I even tried to screw my slide hammer into it because I was getting pissed. I googled the procedure and found some good pics somewhere of the casting flash. In the pic that slotard put up there are 2 slots to the left of that threaded hole. One is narrow and the other slightly wider. The narrow one closest to the hole is where the locking tang is. I knocked out the other one so I could pry outward a little because my key wouldn't stay in the lock. If the key would stay in, then I could pull on the key while releasing the tang. I pushed on that tang every which way and couldn't get it to release. As a last resort I used a steak knife and started tapping and stabbing at it and finally hit the lucky combination. In hindsight I should have sprayed some lube in there and it may have slid out easier. I think it was hanging up due to dry friction.

[popsthebuilder]

I busted out all slag, or flash. I pushed every way I could with bolts in and out key on and off. It's not moving. Any more help?
Thanks.

[SiCk_DiAbLo]

If I remember when I did mine, I took it outta Park, and it came out...

[popsthebuilder]

Can't take it out of park with the key off.

[slotard]

I think the directions say that the key has to be set to On to remove the cylinder.

[cadillac_al]

I don't think it matters what position the key is in but mine was all afloat anyway and it was on when I removed it. I can see the lock tang clear as day in that slot on the right. You need to keep stabbing it and pulling on the cylinder and it should come out. Like I said lube should help. I still spent a very long time getting the right combination after I saw the locking tang. It's like if you push it in too far it won't release either. That's why I started tapping at it and stabbing at it and it finally started to slide out.

[popsthebuilder]

Directions state that cylinder is to be in off position. will try once again. If it doesn't work I'll have to figure out how to take column apart with cylinder in.

[popsthebuilder]

Looking at the old cylinder it seems like the locking tang is also a type of key way. Had a pin hole opposite of the tang and depressing it pushed the key way out removing the inner cylinder from it's housing. If I could get the column apart enough to access the pin hole then maybe I could just replace the inner cylinder. Would probably still have the same problem though.

[slotard]

You sure the directions state it should be in the off position? I know when I was doing mine I was told to put it in the run position.

[popsthebuilder]

definitely states that switch has to be in the off position. How can I get aroung removing the cylinder in the proper manner?

[cadillac_al]

I don't see how it matters what position the key is in, that tang isn't moving anywhere. Like I said, mine was all afloat and it ended up coming out in the run position and I had no problem installing the new one in the run position.

I tried to screw my slide hammer into it but I would have had to do some frigging to get the right screw to work. I was pissed it took me 2-3 hours to just release that lock tang, I would be suicidal if it took me 2 days. I think if you keep lightly tapping and stabbing at that tang you will get lucky eventually and get the right combination to release it.