Need help wiring the 2011 Alternator

[tinsoldier]

I am trying to finish up my wirings. The wirings came from 2001 truck. I picked up a 2011 160 amp alternator. The plug from the wirings did not fit, so I had to order a new plug for the alternator. I don't know which one to splice together as the colors are different. Please help.

[dayj1]

Unfortunately a 2011 alternator has a 2 pin regulator and doesn't lend its self to swaps because it needs a GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) and BCM (Body Control Module) to function properly.

Here's a copy of a post I made on the trifive message board on that subject when I put an '07 5.3 in my '57 BelAir. If you've still got questions let me know...

Originally Posted by dayj1

I'm tying up some loose ends on a Gen IV 5.3 swap. The Gen IV stuff is somewhat different than Gen III and the information is a little harder to come by. Even worse, is the misinformation that's out there.

Today's project was to get my generator light in the instrument cluster working with the new 5.3.

As far as I know, all Gen IV alternators have internal regulators that are controlled by a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal from the ECM. They also rely on GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) and BCM (Body Control Module) input to function correctly. Without the BCM and GBCM, the alternator will default to 100% duty cycle which is 13.8 volts at all times regardless of electrical load or battery discharge level. Also, the ECM will throw DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) if it doesn't recieve the input form the BCM. Even if one were to wire in the additional modules, there is no wire that will activate the "idiot" light in a stock tri-five dash.

In all cases where your swap doesn't have a BCM and GBCM, the ECM will require programming to remove the alternator related DTCs. They are P0621 and P0622.

Option 1: Run the Gen IV alternator connected to the ECM with factory wiring. This is the least amount of work, but you get no idiot light in the stock gauge cluster and your regulator won't really regulate. Alternator output will be 13.8 volts, period.

Option 2: Buy an alternator with a 4 pin regulator. This is probably the option you'll want to take if you didn't get an alternator with your engine, or you just want to spend the money and move along. This will be an alternator from a Gen III application and will be slightly smaller as it is the AD244 style alternator. So, you'll need a shorter belt as well. Since I've been talking truck 5.3 motors so far, a 2004 Siverado alternator would be an example of an alternator with a 4 pin regulator. You'll have to change out the regulator plug in your harness for a 4-pin setup. The "I/F" terminal goes to a switched 12V source and the "L" terminal goes to the idiot light or, if you don't have an idiot light, a 470 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor. The other side of the bulb/resistor goes to a switched 12V source.

Option 3: Swap a 4-pin regulator into the Gen IV alternator that you already have. This is probably the cheapest option if you don't mind a little fabrication work. This is the option that I chose and I took pictures along the way.

First, what kind of alternator are we talking about? It's the D44 style and easy to identify because it's cast right into the front of the case.



You can see the amperage rating right near the center of the case. Also, note the two pin regulator plug.



You'll want a 4 pin regulator for an AD244 alternator. They're about $20 shipping included. Here's what they look like.



Start the process by removing the plastic cover on the back of the alternator. There are 3 slots where you can use a pocket screwdriver to gently pry off the cover. Once you get it off, you have this:



Remove the three screws holding down the regulator. They are E5 reverse Torx, but I used a 4mm 6 point socket. They're not very tight as they're small bolts. You'll also need to remove the sleeve pressed onto the B+ post. The post is knurled like a lug stud. You can gently tap the sleeve side to side with a hammer and it'll loosen up enough to pry up with a flat blade screwdriver. Lastly, you have to unsolder the "P" connector near the B+ post and the regulator can be removed. Then you're left with this:



Now that you have the regulator loose, you can see that most of the mounting holes line up, but the regulators are shaped a little differently. The alternator case will require some modifcations to get it to fit. Note the pie-shaped area that I shaded black in the picture above (at about 5 o'clock in the picture). I used a dremel with a cut off wheel to cut that section of the plate off. It's aluminum and cuts easy. Then you can lay the new regulator in to see the other two mods that are needed. The nub for the bolt just of the left of the regulator plug is a touch too tall and will have to be cut off. Again I used the dremel. Lastly, the 4 pin regulator has a bolt hole just to the right of the plug that wasn't on the old regulator. I drilled a hole in the case with a #29 bit and tapped for a #8-32 machine screw since I didn't have a 4mm x 1 tap. You'll also need a spacer between the regulator and this new hole. The piece that I cut off the screw on the left fit after being filed down slightly. This is all much easier than it sounds as the case is soft aluminum. Just go slow and sneak up on the final product with a file. It took me about an hour to do the case mods.

Now, we have this. Note the pie shaped piece that was removed, the ground nub, and the new tapped hole.



Now, screw down the 4 pin regulator with the original bolts plus a #8-32 x 3/4" screw in the new hole. Lastly, bend the "P" terminal on the new regulator and the "P" terminal from the alternator case together as best you can and solder them together. I actually used a short jumper of 14 gauge wire to help make a mechanical connection prior to soldering. It should look this.



Note the tape on the black plastic dust cover. It is marking the area that needs to be trimmed to fit around the larger 4-pin plug. I used a razor blade to make the initial cuts and finished up with a fine file. When you finish up the trimming, snap it back in place and it looks like this.



At this point I took the alternator to Advance and asked them to test it. Just tell them it is a 2004 Silverado alternator. It passed with flying colors.

The terminal letters are marked right on the regulator plug. When wiring up the "hybrid" alternator, the "L" terminal goes to the factory generator light in the dash and the "I/F" terminal goes to a switched 12 volt source.

Now my generator light works and the alternator maintains 14.7 volts under all loads. I hope this helps with someone else's Gen IV swap..

[tinsoldier]

Thanks for the reply Dayj1. I actually found your post earlier before I ordered the plug. I just didn't want to change the regulator. Looks like I have to do it now.

[tbrown5079]

I want to thank dayj1 for this post. I did this with some variation and it worked out fine. My alternator is a DR44G ( 2007 GMC donor ). The guy at my auto electronics shop was super and told me to use a 23012211 regulator and I bought the 4 pin plug also. He gave me some tips on getting the lug off to remove the old regulator ( says he does hundreds of these for different applications ). You don't want to get too aggressive or you will break the plastic plates underneath. Once that popped off I unsolered the connector and installed the new regulator. The contact fit over the old pin so all I had to do was resolder the joint. No alteration to the case, Just cut the plastic cover for the 4 pin plug. Hooked the yellow wire to the exiter wire from the main harness and the main wire to the starter. I have the Classic Industries dash cluster with a volt meter and it registers 13+ volts. Hope this helps someone else.

[clinebarger]

I have some questions about this...

I have an '04 truck PCM, Needing it to control a 2011 5th gen Camaro alternator (Valeo FG15S027 150amp), It has a 2-pin plug similar to a D44.

The '04 PCM controls the voltage regulator through a "Field Duty Cycle" wire, And a "Indicator Control" wire, Looking at diagrams for a 2011 Camaro, It also has the same circuits.

At this point I'm doing research, I wish I had rigged the Camaro alternator on the Burb & tested it before pulling the engine, But I didn't.

I don't see an issue with wiring this alternator "Circuit number" to "Circuit number"? Not concerned with a charge indicator lamp in the dash, I have a volt gage.

'04 LM7 alternator diagram.

[clinebarger]

2011 V8 Camaro alternator diagram.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

I don't see an issue with wiring this alternator "Circuit number" to "Circuit number"?

I agree. From the schematics that you posted, it looks like that would work fine.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by dayj1

I agree. From the schematics that you posted, it looks like that would work fine.

Thanks! Why couldn't the OP do the same thing? The '01 truck diagrams show the same.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

Thanks! Why couldn't the OP do the same thing? The '01 truck diagrams show the same.

The short tutorial that I wrote was specifically for Gen IV computers which won't control an alternator without a GBCM. So, in my case, I had to control the alternator independent of the ECM.

As for your question, I'm starting to waffle on what I said last night regarding the gen 5 Camaro alternator working with a gen 3 PCM. I no longer have full access to AllData, but I remember that in the GM writeup about the GBCM that the 2 pin regulator is PWM controlled. I believe that there was even a table that showed PWM duty cycle and the resulting regulated voltage. What I don't remember is how the Gen 3 (pre GBCM) charging circuit was documented. The way I wired it up in my car (and they way all the carb guys wire it up) the regulator is defintely not getting a PWM signal from an idiot light or nichrome resistance wire.

The shorter version of that is that if the gen III PCM is outputting a PWM signal to control the alternator then it will probably work for you (and the OP). If the gen III PCM doesn't output a PWM signal, then it's probably not going to work (and by "not work" I mean it won't regulate correctly but it will charge).

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by dayj1

The short tutorial that I wrote was specifically for Gen IV computers which won't control an alternator without a GBCM. So, in my case, I had to control the alternator independent of the ECM.

As for your question, I'm starting to waffle on what I said last night regarding the gen 5 Camaro alternator working with a gen 3 PCM. I no longer have full access to AllData, but I remember that in the GM writeup about the GBCM that the 2 pin regulator is PWM controlled. I believe that there was even a table that showed PWM duty cycle and the resulting regulated voltage. What I don't remember is how the Gen 3 (pre GBCM) charging circuit was documented. The way I wired it up in my car (and they way all the carb guys wire it up) the regulator is defintely not getting a PWM signal from an idiot light or nichrome resistance wire.

The shorter version of that is that if the gen III PCM is outputting a PWM signal to control the alternator then it will probably work for you (and the OP). If the gen III PCM doesn't output a PWM signal, then it's probably not going to work (and by "not work" I mean it won't regulate correctly but it will charge).

I have access to All Data-Pro. And as you likely know the info can be limited on certain things. Nothing out & out says the Field Duty Cycle Control feed is PWM or not.
However Field Duty Cycle does read in percentage in Scan Data. I remember seeing the PID when scanning.

Info off Alldata, '04 LM7.
"GEN L-Terminal Signal Command: The scan tool displays OK/No Output. The scan tool displays OK until malfunction is detected on the generator L terminal circuit, then it reads No Output.

GEN F-Terminal Signal: The scan tool displays 0%-100% . The scan tool displays 0%-5% until the engine is running, then the percentage value varies depending on electrical loads."

It being a Valeo, Not sure on a regulator swap either.?

[Hart_Rod]

Bumping an old thread. Did you ever figure this out? Check this article out: http://www.flatrater.com/samples/Battery/rvc.html