Replacing Frame Rivets

[BigBlock67]

Has anyone replaced the rivets in their frame and what did you use? I am thinking of using wheel studs because of the splines. Anyone have any better ideas?

[Mock1]

Grade 8 bolts.

[67ctener]

I second grade 8 bolts. It's scary how easily some of these old rivets can break

[Mr Handy]

yup grade 8 for me. Should be stronger than the rivets.

[Mock1]

120,000 psi proof load.
130,000 psi yeild
150,000 ,tensile
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ade-chart.aspx

[Mock1]

Correct me of im wrong, but arent the rivits nothing more than cold role thats heated and beated?

[bbcmudtruck]

I've ground off and removed nearly every rivet in my entire frame. I've been replacing them with grade 8 nuts, washers, lock washers and bolts. It gets fairly expensive buying all those bolts a few at a time from the hardware store!

[snipescastle2]

I have these "socket head" bolts at my work, that are rounded on the head, and I've seen people take and fill the allen socket with "J-B Weld" and sand and paint them to appear as rivets, just an idea....
Ben

[Mock1]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I have these "socket head" bolts at my work, that are rounded on the head, and I've seen people take and fill the allen socket with "J-B Weld" and sand and paint them to appear as rivets, just an idea....
Ben

Thats a great idea, but if those are stainless they wont have HALF the strength of grade 8 hardware.
Instead of getting bolts a little at a time from Ace, or other hardware stores, get a total count and go to a FASTENER store. Price will be much cheaper, most of these places sell hardware by the pound, not the piece.

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by bbcmudtruck

I've ground off and removed nearly every rivet in my entire frame. I've been replacing them with grade 8 nuts, washers, lock washers and bolts. It gets fairly expensive buying all those bolts a few at a time from the hardware store!

Tractor Supply sells grade 8 bolts (and other grades also) by the pound if you have one near you....that's where I get mine.

[rx78nt1alex]

Find yourself a nut and bolt supply store. They will usually beat the prices you find at the hardware stores, particularly on grade 8.

[snipescastle2]

these are galvanized, but I have regular grade 8 ones in black too.....

[Mock1]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

these are galvanized, but I have regular grade 8 ones in black too.....

Nice, they look like stainless. How do you tell the grade on those?

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by 67ctener

I second grade 8 bolts. It's scary how easily some of these old rivets can break

Really? I've spent hours removing some of them...

[snipescastle2]

well, that picture I shown, those were actually chrome steel. I have galvanized ones and the black oxide finished ones, I'll have to double check the box they came in, but I'm pretty sure the black ones are grade 8, can't say the same for the galvanized ones, but I'll check
and I agree on the drilling the rivets out for hours, even after using an air chisel, driving the rest out were a P.I.T.A......

[GoaterAz]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Really? I've spent hours removing some of them...

Lol...so true. I even gave one the 'A-hole of 2014' award.

[CrewCab59]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=480148

Tool and rivet info.

[Aruba1]

You will not find me replacing any rivets unless it's absolutely necessary.

[bbcmudtruck]

Originally Posted by 72bowtiestepper

Tractor Supply sells grade 8 bolts (and other grades also) by the pound if you have one near you....that's where I get mine.

I've been getting them from two different AG stores. True Value and orchelins. The Fastenal place will only sell huge full boxes. IE 100 count etc. My next move is going to see about buying bulk assorted grade 8 and grade 5 with a bin.

[snipescastle2]

how many did you need?

[OregonNed]

Those bolts look sweet..

[CUSTOM/10]

I've done both the wheel studs and replace rivets by heating and peening them. The wheel studs look like rivets from the outside of the frame, and are very strong like grade 8, buy are also pricey to buy.

Doing the rivets without a big rivet squeezer can be a daunting task, but they look original when you’re done. Also heating them and peening them hardens them, like forging a piece of metal ! All depends on what you want for the end result !

Gary

[bbcmudtruck]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

how many did you need?

ALOT! haha I know that doesn't help you out much, but I replaced all of my suspension as well as cross members with ECE stuff. I also removed the bed mounts as well as the rear cab mounts. I used 7/16 grade 8 bolts in various lengths. On all of the cross member bolts, I used 1 1/2" bolt, washer, washer, lock washer, nut, in that order. I'm sure its over kill at its finest, however I'm sort of "that guy". I also put in a CPP tubular shock tower/cross member on the rear and ended up using 2 1/4" bolts on that, 6 in total. Those had to be a little longer because of the extra material added from the c-notch. I would safely say that I have over a hundred bucks in grade 8 hardware at this point, and I still have more to go.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I have these "socket head" bolts at my work, that are rounded on the head, and I've seen people take and fill the allen socket with "J-B Weld" and sand and paint them to appear as rivets, just an idea....
Ben

Those socket head bolts appear to be stainless steel. For your frame, most stainless steels are a bad choice because of corrosion caused by contact between dissimilar metals and the lower tensile strength of stainless steel. The bolts won't rust but the joint in your frame will rust more rapidly with a stainless fastener. Better to use a Grade 8 Hex cap screw.

[franken]

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Really? I've spent hours removing some of them...

Same here. Last time I got frustrated with the grinding and air chiseling, so used the torch and had to add some metal I'd torched away...
Those rivets are tough.
They also fit tightly in the holes so replacing with bolts will allow whatever part to move around, regardless of the torque on the bolt.