PC, POR15 or Chassis Paint?

[Possmguts]

I was originally going to haul my frame to be sand blasted and powder coated, but I was waiting until I had the cash to do so. Since Ive had time I have been chopping away at it with the wire wheels and finish grinder and now it sits all nice and shiny inside and out and in all the tight spots so I was thinking of just doing the POR15 and top coating it. Ive been reading on the POR15 and it turns out it works best when applied Over surface rust. Who knew that POR stands for Paint Over Rust?? There isnt a trace of any surface rust now... This is Not something I plan on driving in any snow or rain so now Im thinking a good couple coats of Epoxy Primer and Chassis Paint should work just fine. If I send it to the powder coater now they still want to blast it so I didn't save any money there but instead wasted a ton of time doing what I've done if I decide to pay for the PC... But its as clean as its going to get and will take a paint job very nicely and save money for parts since PC costs is about 600 bucks or so. I know PC is much more durable, but like I said its not going to be driven in any snow or rain. Any input to would be appreciated... Keep in mind Im on a budget and Not going for a show truck... Just a really clean good weather driver.

[leddzepp]

POR or an epoxy will be more durable than powdercoating.

[leftybass209]

POR15 has a product called metal ready, and that leaves a phosphate coating turning the metal white. You can use that before painting POR15 and it will stick. I did it on my inner fenders, then while it was drying I sprayed it with a semi - gloss black. Now I have a semi - gloss inner fender that's super durable and won't fade or turn purple or chalky.

[Lee H]

Based on your criteria I would por or paint. I powder coated my frame 3 years ago, and about 15k miles, no chips, looks like it did the day brought it home.

[68 Stepper]

I did my boat trailer with POR last year, I am very happy with how it turned out. I got carried away and took most all the surface rust off but have not seen that it has made any difference yet. I did rough the surface between every coat, else you will never get this suffering off your garage floor! Good luck, post some pics and let us know what way you end up going.

[special-K]

Look into Master Series. POR-15 is the big name and Master Series is the better name. The owner was a chemist for POR-15 but quit to start his own company after POR cheapened up their formula. This guy's stuff is used on everything from hiway bridges to ships. They offer a wide range of products...anything you could need for restoration.

www.masterseriescoatings.com

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by special-K

Look into Master Series. POR-15 is the big name and Master Series is the better name. The owner was a chemist for POR-15 but quit to start his own company after POR cheapened up their formula. This guy's stuff is used on everything from hiway bridges to ships. They offer a wide range of products...anything you could need for restoration.

www.masterseriescoatings.com

Thanks, Their website is a little confusing but I went ahead and ordered the chassis kit. If its as good as it reads it is then I should be happy about it for a long long time. Covers 160 sq ft so I hope its enough for the firewall wheels wells and frame... Ill do the chassis first and see whats left.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Lee H

Based on your criteria I would por or paint. I powder coated my frame 3 years ago, and about 15k miles, no chips, looks like it did the day brought it home.

Thanks Lee... I checked out your build.. Really Nice. I love the fact that you didnt go with those huge wheels all the "youngsters" are using these days.

[special-K]

Gee, now I'm hoping it really is good stuff . I thought to mention their site may be a bit "busy". Too much information... choices? I guess they have to work hard being the underdog and POR-15 being the household name. Like LMC, people keep flocking to them because they are a mass marketing company, yet there are countless better sources. I've been recommending it for years and everyone has been happy... so far

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by special-K

Gee, now I'm hoping it really is good stuff . I thought to mention their site may be a bit "busy". Too much information... choices? I guess they have to work hard being the underdog and POR-15 being the household name. Like LMC, people keep flocking to them because they are a mass marketing company, yet there are countless better sources. I've been recommending it for years and everyone has been happy... so far

Whats your kick back and how do I get in?

[leddzepp]

I've used POR on everything for years. Zero issues and will buy again and again.

[Oldblue68chevy]

I would use a good epoxy primer (PPG DP-90) and then topcoat it with a good single stage paint. Just make sure you have a good cleaned and prepped surface and you will have no issues with a painted frame.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I've used POR on everything for years. Zero issues and will buy again and again.

Man I tell ya.. You and Lee H have damn near convinced me to stay with the Old School wheels with white letters out..... I was thinking of going with 17" but after seeing you two guys builds..... Thats back on the drawing board. Im just worried i didnt go low enough with the back... I did the 5.5/5 static. I hope that gives me a nice rake....

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

POR or an epoxy will be more durable than powdercoating.

And you know this how, exactly?

Guess what? Powder coating is a temperature cured epoxy. Is a temperature cured epoxy more or less paints, epoxy or otherwise. You tell me, please. I want to hear why you think a temperature cured epoxy is less durable than paints or epoxies which rely upon the catalyzation of a vehicle to harden.

[leddzepp]

I see rust on stuff all the time where powdercoating has chipped away. I've never had that problem with POR as stated above. This is based on experience, not something I read on the internet

[Possmguts]

Based on what I read on what I just ordered.. It will not rust beyond a scratch... From what I know about PC it will rust under the PC and travel along causing damage you cant see until its too late... Like I said, thats only what I read, not what Ive seen.... yet.

[LT102]

If I use POR15 on the chassis do I have to topcoat it? I have never been clear on this.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by LT102

If I use POR15 on the chassis do I have to topcoat it? I have never been clear on this.

Yes you do.. And I think there is a window of when you can do it...

[leftybass209]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I see rust on stuff all the time where powdercoating has chipped away. I've never had that problem with POR as stated above. This is based on experience, not something I read on the internet

I'll have to second this as I've done a couple frames in POR15, and going on 10+ years now there is no flaking, chipping, or scratches on it. The powdercoat on my friends frame has chipped in a couple areas and is now pulling up slowly around it where rust is creeping under. Science of the products be damned on both sides, POR15 proved it's worth in my eyes.

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Thanks Lee... I checked out your build.. Really Nice. I love the fact that you didnt go with those huge wheels all the "youngsters" are using these days.

Thank you sir.

[EARNHARDT#3]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

Yes you do.. And I think there is a window of when you can do it...

I thought you only had to top coat it if it sees sunlight?

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

I thought you only had to top coat it if it sees sunlight?

There is enough reflection from asphalt and concrete to fade the frame over time I would think... I would top coat anything not UV protected outside anyway.

[special-K]

I had a set of powdercoated ladder racks that looked fine from the ground. But the front cross bar had been worn through on the top edge and was opened up to the heavens in the front. It's like it has it's own structure, but it was laying away from the steel 1/8". When I stripped them to redo for another truck (another color) the metal behind that area was pitted about 1/2 way through. This is thick square tube. I cut it out and redid that. I'd only put powdercoat on a frame under a truck that didn't see normal use. My issue was up where I could easily inspect it. Powdercoat is great stuff, I love it and have done many things in it. But, it's not the immaculate invincible coating some think it is. It is tough as nails, though, for abrasion. The harder the coating the worse it chips, like paint with too much hardener.
I know you can't believe everything you read, but if anyone thinks POR-15 is the best, you haven't looked at Masterseries. my uncle's... I mean*, a business wouldn't last this long and you would have heard about it if it was a blatant lie. Look at the hours in salt spray tests alone.

*

[MP&C]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

There isnt a trace of any surface rust now.....

So why use a product made to adhere to rust? Spray some black SPI epoxy, no topcoat needed. It has UV inhibitors in the epoxy.

[leddzepp]

POR has been around for decades. I have nothing against Master Series, it's probably the same thing in a different can