Fender cup patch panel quality?

[EARNHARDT#3]

I was rifling through some threads regarding using a patch panel on the infamous passenger side fender cup. They all say the panel is too small by an inch or more. Does anyone know if this has been resolved or if any of the patch panels available for the fender cup are made correctly?

[Nsanehotrodz]

We have sold a few of those and I have not had any complaints about them.

[flashed]

Does anyone make one for the drivers side ?

[Nsanehotrodz]

Originally Posted by flashed

Does anyone make one for the drivers side ?

You can only get them for the passenger side right now.

[Possmguts]

Originally Posted by Nsanehotrodz

You can only get them for the passenger side right now.

I went nuts trying to find a driver side one... I cant believe no one makes one for that side.

[flashed]

I didnt think the driver side was made ,its a shame as I have a nice fender already cut and waiting for one .I keep hoping to find a rusty fender with a good cup to rob.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Possmguts

I went nuts trying to find a driver side one... I cant believe no one makes one for that side.

I had to buy an entire repop fender to get just the bottom for my driver side.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

I was rifling through some threads regarding using a patch panel on the infamous passenger side fender cup. They all say the panel is too small by an inch or more. Does anyone know if this has been resolved or if any of the patch panels available for the fender cup are made correctly?

I got a tri-plus part and my bodyman said it fit like crap. Needed a lot of massaging to work.

[67ctener]

I bought a reproduction fender cause I heard mixed reviews but thought I would give it a shot. Long story short it fit like junk. I ended up cutting the lower cup off and putting it on my fender. The fit was actually really good. Being it wasn't just the patch panel I don't know if they are stamped the same. I split the front to get it to fit but in the end I think it fit great

[franken]

I think most body parts come from the same places in Asia and differences in fit are more to do with wacky manufacturing processes/tolerances than different suppliers. Check the stickers on the next parts you buy.
Yes there are those that argue that AMD or other's make their own parts, but look closely and only a few parts are claimed to me unique.
Then there are those who claim their fav maker uses genuine old GM tooling. Right. GM sold the dies to someone in Taiwan who had them shipped and then located obsolete stamping machines to put them in. Not to mention that the dies wear. And they did this for lots of GM, Ford and Mopar car and truck parts. Who would have thought in 1975 that those wily Asians foresaw that we would collect and fix rusty cars and trucks.

Lots of mythology, few manufacturers.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by 67ctener

I bought a reproduction fender cause I heard mixed reviews but thought I would give it a shot. Long story short it fit like junk. I ended up cutting the lower cup off and putting it on my fender. The fit was actually really good. Being it wasn't just the patch panel I don't know if they are stamped the same. I split the front to get it to fit but in the end I think it fit great

The cup we cut off the new reproduction drivers side fender fit a lot better than the separate cup we got for the passenger side for us too. (I still have a new, 80% complete drivers side fender up in the attic.... ) My bodyman thought I was nuts wanting to fix my rusty 45 yr old fender instead of just using the brand new one until he spend some time working with the reproduction parts I brought him.

The stuff he works on does not typically have reproduction parts available and he has to repair it or make his own new parts....

[EARNHARDT#3]

I don't know which route I'm going to go when it comes time. Having a '67 makes it very hard to find a nice original fender as well. I had the chance to buy a pair of NOS '67 fenders for $100 but they were for a big truck and would've taken some wedding of a bracket or something. I should've went and got them!

[Possmguts]

Well now after reading all this about just how bad aftermarket fenders actually fit Im thinking Ill have to just spend the time working out the problems of my OEM fenders.
The problem I have with the passengers side is that its off a 68 and has a horrible riveted on patch job over the side marker light that cant be hidden because Ill be moving the battery and it will be seen from inside the engine compartment.
I can cut it all out and do a better job on it but was hopping to save some time... especially since the cup needs replaced too. The cup needs replaced on the driver side too. I guess the search is on now for fenders I can get patches off of.

[67ctener]

My passenger I repaired both sides just below the body line. The driver side I found a nice original fender at a swap meet and cut it to repair mine. I would do whatever it takes to make originals fit. On the other hand some like reproduction fenders but for me they didn't work

[StingRay]

I found the cup I got was much too short if you used the body line. If you make a pattern with tape of the donor cup and transfer it to the fender it can be made to work quite well with minimal tweaking. It's when you cut the fender off at the body line and expect there will be enough on the cup for a patch that's where your problem will be.

I've fashioned small patches for the lower portion on the drivers side quite easily as they generally don't need nearly as big a piece to make the repair. They can be as simple as a piece with a few relief cuts welded up to allow for a compound curve or can be done with basic metal shaping tools. This part is a drivers side patch that does not include the flange at the wheel well. It was my first attempt at metal shaping with a tucking fork, English wheel, tipping wheel and a Lancaster style shrinker. Far from perfect but fits as it should and will work perfectly for what I need it to do. It looks uglier than it really is because the steel was zinc coated and the grinding was pretty course. The curvature is actually pretty good. By no means are all these tools required to make a part like this. What is mandatory is a good pattern that can be as simple as masking tape and fiberglass tape over a good known shape. These are called flexible shape patterns. I have a bead roller now so my next attempt will have the wheel well flange with the concave bead detail at the transition to the wheel well flange.

[flashed]

My fender was already cut when I got it but it was free .I dont need it but since I have it I would like to fix it and have it as a spare .

[StingRay]

How far up was it cut?

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by Nsanehotrodz

You can only get them for the passenger side right now.

I read some where that the stamping die for the drivers side was broken years ago.....hard to believe that someone has not produced a new replacement.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by 72bowtiestepper

I read some where that the stamping die for the drivers side was broken years ago.....hard to believe that someone has not produced a new replacement.

The passenger side usually rots out from the battery above and is a common problem area. I don't think the drivers side is as prone to rusting out. Mine didn't rust out, it was folded in from an accident at some point.

[flashed]

I finally got out to my shop to see my driver side fender ,it is cut way above the cup but can still be repaired with a patch from another ,just have to find one .

[slikside]

Originally Posted by StingRay

I found the cup I got was much too short if you used the body line. If you make a pattern with tape of the donor cup and transfer it to the fender it can be made to work quite well with minimal tweaking. It's when you cut the fender off at the body line and expect there will be enough on the cup for a patch that's where your problem will be.

I've fashioned small patches for the lower portion on the drivers side quite easily as they generally don't need nearly as big a piece to make the repair. They can be as simple as a piece with a few relief cuts welded up to allow for a compound curve or can be done with basic metal shaping tools. This part is a drivers side patch that does not include the flange at the wheel well. It was my first attempt at metal shaping with a tucking fork, English wheel, tipping wheel and a Lancaster style shrinker. Far from perfect but fits as it should and will work perfectly for what I need it to do. It looks uglier than it really is because the steel was zinc coated and the grinding was pretty course. The curvature is actually pretty good. By no means are all these tools required to make a part like this. What is mandatory is a good pattern that can be as simple as masking tape and fiberglass tape over a good known shape. These are called flexible shape patterns. I have a bead roller now so my next attempt will have the wheel well flange with the concave bead detail at the transition to the wheel well flange.

StingRay,

That looks like a mighty fine job for a first attempt at all that shaping.

Nice work.