Truck won't start...what's going on?

[doodah man]

Hello all,

It's been a while since I posted here.

Yesterday I went out to run some errands. The truck started and warmed up normally. I drove around town for about 30 minutes (~5 miles) with no issues. Parked at the lunch spot. After lunch, the truck started but the idle was rough like it was missing cylinders. If I fed it a little gas (while in Park), the engine smoothed out. When I put it in gear and tried to drive it was very rough and stalled. After that I couldn't start it at all. I walked to the grocery store, then came back 30 minutes later and tried it again. It started, the idle was ok, but became rough as soon as I put it in gear. Putting it back in park smoothed out the idle. I killed the switch and couldn't get it to start again. Pulled the fuel filter out and reattached the line, still no start. I've got a fuel pump ordered for Tuesday, but thought I would check in here for your input.

This is a C10 with 350/TH350. Swapped the points for HEI 3 years ago.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Craig.

[WorkinLonghorn]

I would check for a vacuum leak.

[cdowns]

I'd check outthe in tank fuel sock attached to the sendenig unit

[Longhorn 70]

My HEI did that after the Olds to Chevy swap. It was fun. I get the SBC installed. Started the truck. Tuned fuel and timing.....Drove it around the block. It stalled right in front of the drive. I restarted. In Park it was running with a slight miss.... Put it in DRIVE. DIED. Restarted. Repeat.....


Pushed it in to the driveway.
Checked fuel pump output. OK.
Changed the module in the distributor.
Restarted and timed.

All better.

[leftybass209]

How well did your truck run before the issue? I've seen these threads get 20-30 posts in, THEN the op stated he forgot he did something a week beforehand that wound up causing the problem.

[doodah man]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

How well did your truck run before the issue? I've seen these threads get 20-30 posts in, THEN the op stated he forgot he did something a week beforehand that wound up causing the problem.

It's been running like a top (well, a 43 year old top anyway). I took it on a 40 mile drive just the day before with no issues.

It typically dies on the initial cold start when the temps are below 40F, but always starts on the second crank (this happens every winter). It uses a little oil (I usually add a quart every 500 or so miles). I have a transmission leak that requires a pint every 1000 miles or so. I did add trans fluid and oil on Sunday shortly before this occurred.

[Swar]

If I had to guess, it's probably the HEI. I used to have one on my 350, it gave me a lot of trouble. I did away with it and put in an MSD distributor and the digital 6AL-2 ignition box, somewhere around 2008? I haven't had a problem since. When it comes to ignition, the newest technology is the way to go.

[AirSpeed]

Had a similar experience in one of my trucks, ran fine then the next time I started it it ran very rough, turned out the timing chain had slipped a few teeth. I was able to get home but the next time I started it it started back firing, must have slipped more. Might not be your problem but worth a look.

[FirstOwner69]

Have you checked to be sure all your plug wires are firmly snapped in place at the plugs and distributor? Some years ago I had a problem similar to yours after I put some silicone based boot release in the plug boots. One or two plug wires popped loose as the engine warmed up.

[Redline novdog]

sounds like ingnition to me . coil/module/points/condenser. Don't know what you're runnin'

[doodah man]

Well, here's an update:

Installed a new fuel pump and filter. Still wouldn't start.

Installed a new PCV valve and grommet (the old one had rotted) and vacuum line between PCV and carb. Still wouldn't start.

Installed new ignition module and cleaned contacts on dizzy cap and rotor. Still won't start.

A couple other things I haven't mentioned. 1. There is more grime around engine block than usual. Looks like it was leaking out of everywhere. Oil on valve covers and everywhere below. Rear of block, pan, top of oil filter, starter, etc. Maybe this is a function of the PCV failure? Could it force oil past the valve cover gaskets? I added a quart of oil before the breakdown. It could have used more.

I checked the coolant and it's a little low (3 inches down from fill opening), but I haven't checked it for a while so I don't know that that's recent.

When I crank it I hear a wha whunk, wha whunk (sorry, not sure how to describe this sound) coming from the front (I think) of the engine. Maybe the water pump or timing chain?

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

[terry b]

Check your timing chain. Remove #1 spark plug. Dissconect power to the distributor. Have someone bump the starter as you hold your thumb in the pulg hole. When the compresson blows your thumb off the hole you are close. Now use a breaker bar on crank bolt to turn the motor back some. Insert a wire in the pulg hole and bring the piston back up top dead center. You can feel the piston move with the wire. Does the distributor rotor line up with #1 on the distributor cap? If not you need to change the timing chain and gears.

[Redline novdog]

After more info and I'm with TerryB could have slipped a tooth on the ole timing chain.