New Kansas Member....again

[flaa1a]

I started on the Forum about a month ago. I bought a 2K 1970 C10 that is still in my avatar! After taking a look at the floor pans and deciding that was not for me, I decided to sell my 1972 Toyota Landcruiser and buy this guy. It needs a few things done, but it is not overwhelming! This is just a quick introduction to my 1972 Cheyenne Super. I will write up a bit more about it when I have time. I know you all like pictures anyway, so here they are!!

Randy

[engineer_gregh]

Nice looking truck! I like the color. Can't wait to see more pictures.

[gipper]

Beautiful truck! Please change your fuel filter to an all metal one. I'd hate to see your beauty catch on fire.

[knomadd]

Nice truck you have there!

Originally Posted by gipper

Beautiful truck! Please change your fuel filter to an all metal one. I'd hate to see your beauty catch on fire.

The clear glass filters are the problematic ones, not so much the clear plastic. A metal filter would give more peace of mind though.

[supercheyenne]

Welcome from KS!

[Elliot949]

Welcome to the board From Winfield... You will find this board is very helpful... I would also encourage you to join the Wichita C-10 Club...

Great looking truck you have there... I think I saw this forsale on Craigslist awhile back and made a note to myself that if my truck were complete I would look at it but I am so far off from being done with my truck....

[leftybass209]

Awesome truck! Do you miss your land cruiser at all?

[flaa1a]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Awesome truck! Do you miss your land cruiser at all?

As of right now I don't miss the Land Cruiser. It was geared so low and rode like a covered wagon. These trucks feel like you're riding in a Cadillac and can easily do 70 on the highway!

There are a few bugs I need to work out on this truck. I will be searching and asking a lot!

Right now I am working on cleaning it up underneath and getting all the leaks opened up so it can leak all over my driveway and garage floor! I am gonna have to figure out what is leaking!

[flaa1a]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

Welcome to the board From Winfield... You will find this board is very helpful... I would also encourage you to join the Wichita C-10 Club...

Great looking truck you have there... I think I saw this forsale on Craigslist awhile back and made a note to myself that if my truck were complete I would look at it but I am so far off from being done with my truck....

Yeah. I did buy it off of Craigslist. A guy in Arkansas had it. He owned it for about a year. Before that, the original owner owned it. I have a copy of the original title and the actual receipt from the dealership. It was just over 3400 dollars brand new.

It does not have the original engine. I am trying to ID using the numbers and stuff. I think it is from a 1969 "full size" by the information I have been able to dig up. The guy I bought it from didn't do anything to it but buy the new tires and put the wheels on it. I have the Rallys that go with it too, and most likely will put those on. Obviously it has been repainted at some point and to me looks to be pretty good all the way around.

It leaks oil. It leaks transmission fluid. The AC does not work. and there are a few little things like the interior light does not come on when I open the door on the psngr side. It does on the DR side though. I am going to make a list of things that may need attention.

While I had my TOYOTA, I was a member of the forum they had too. It was sooo much help. I am looking forward to meeting you through this medium and getting to know some of you all.

Randy

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

Yeah. I did buy it off of Craigslist. A guy in Arkansas had it. He owned it for about a year. Before that, the original owner owned it. I have a copy of the original title and the actual receipt from the dealership. It was just over 3400 dollars brand new.

It does not have the original engine. I am trying to ID using the numbers and stuff. I think it is from a 1969 "full size" by the information I have been able to dig up. The guy I bought it from didn't do anything to it but buy the new tires and put the wheels on it. I have the Rallys that go with it too, and most likely will put those on. Obviously it has been repainted at some point and to me looks to be pretty good all the way around.

It leaks oil. It leaks transmission fluid. The AC does not work. and there are a few little things like the interior light does not come on when I open the door on the psngr side. It does on the DR side though. I am going to make a list of things that may need attention.

While I had my TOYOTA, I was a member of the forum they had too. It was sooo much help. I am looking forward to meeting you through this medium and getting to know some of you all.

Randy

Advice on oil leaks: Start at the top and work your way to the bottom.

[flaa1a]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

Advice on oil leaks: Start at the top and work your way to the bottom.

Thanks! I did do the valve cover gaskets last weekend. The engine was so dirty! Even under the covers it was pretty grimy. Any advice on "additives" to clean up the inside of the engine?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

Thanks! I did do the valve cover gaskets last weekend. The engine was so dirty! Even under the covers it was pretty grimy. Any advice on "additives" to clean up the inside of the engine?

Only thing "engine flush" or "engine clean" additives can do is remove only liquid dirty oil and maybe a very, very tiny bit off the surface of the sludge.

Waste of time.

Be very careful when you remove sludge so as not to get it in the oil pan. Sometimes it's best to leave it alone, except for the oil return holes on the ends of the cyl heads, they have to be fairly clear so the oil does not pool in the valve cover area. After doing valve covers or other work where sludge is dis-lodged or gasket material gets loose despite your best efforts, always change the oil and after draining flush the oil pan with trans fluid and let it carry away whatever may have gotten down there. It's not perfect but unless you pull the pan it's the best.

NOW inspect the oil sender or gauge line fitting and if it's leaking replace it. If it's still leaking oil check the ends of the intake manifold (this is the worst one for loosening sludge and getting it into the oil pan).

Make sure the PCV and vent filter is in order to help keep the engine clean in the future.

Do you have any "blow-by" from the crankcase? PCV must be dis-connected to check for blow-by.

[Elliot949]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

Yeah. I did buy it off of Craigslist. A guy in Arkansas had it. He owned it for about a year. Before that, the original owner owned it. I have a copy of the original title and the actual receipt from the dealership. It was just over 3400 dollars brand new.

It does not have the original engine. I am trying to ID using the numbers and stuff. I think it is from a 1969 "full size" by the information I have been able to dig up. The guy I bought it from didn't do anything to it but buy the new tires and put the wheels on it. I have the Rallys that go with it too, and most likely will put those on. Obviously it has been repainted at some point and to me looks to be pretty good all the way around.

It leaks oil. It leaks transmission fluid. The AC does not work. and there are a few little things like the interior light does not come on when I open the door on the psngr side. It does on the DR side though. I am going to make a list of things that may need attention.

While I had my TOYOTA, I was a member of the forum they had too. It was sooo much help. I am looking forward to meeting you through this medium and getting to know some of you all.

Randy

Here is a good way to ID a Engine... This thread as you will read really helped me ID my engine..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=654683

[flaa1a]

Originally Posted by Elliot949

Here is a good way to ID a Engine... This thread as you will read really helped me ID my engine..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=654683

I read through that thread. It is good. My engine ID is VO116HN. But there is no partial VIN number on that spot (psngr head) of my engine.

[orangek5]

Kansas.

[steelhorse]

Sweet truck.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

I started on the Forum about a month ago. I bought a 2K 1970 C10 that is still in my avatar! After taking a look at the floor pans and deciding that was not for me, I decided to sell my 1972 Toyota Landcruiser and buy this guy. It needs a few things done, but it is not overwhelming! This is just a quick introduction to my 1972 Cheyenne Super. I will write up a bit more about it when I have time. I know you all like pictures anyway, so here they are!!

Randy

Nice, LOVE the factory writing still on the firewall. I painted over mine DOH!

Sold your 72 Landcruiser for enough to buy that? GREAT DEAL.

Did you sell or keep your old one?

[flaa1a]

I cleaned the valve covers out. There was a great deal of sludge and grime on the inside walls of them. And the valves were all very sooty. Very very sooty. I just left the soot alone and I just imagined it causing problems.

They vent filters were plugged with grime and nastiness too, so I cleaned those the best I could with a little wire brush and an angle pick.

Not sure if I have blow by or not? How do you check for that? I am considering getting an engine and starting to put it together (rebuild?). I don't want to take the existing one out, because with my schedule, who knows how long it would take to complete. And I dont want to lose out on driving the truck. Since it is not the original engine, it would not matter or affect the value....at least I dont think it would.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

I cleaned the valve covers out. There was a great deal of sludge and grime on the inside walls of them. And the valves were all very sooty. Very very sooty. I just left the soot alone and I just imagined it causing problems.

They vent filters were plugged with grime and nastiness too, so I cleaned those the best I could with a little wire brush and an angle pick.

Not sure if I have blow by or not? How do you check for that? I am considering getting an engine and starting to put it together (rebuild?). I don't want to take the existing one out, because with my schedule, who knows how long it would take to complete. And I dont want to lose out on driving the truck. Since it is not the original engine, it would not matter or affect the value....at least I dont think it would.

OK you did right to leave the valve soot alone, assuming it's in the crank-case on the valve springs.

If the parts are original 72, the vent filter on the valve cover that goes to a pipe to the air cleaner can be sprayed out with choke cleaner and blown out. Use safety precautions. The hose leads to a replaceable filter in the air cleaner housing. Look at the PCV it may need replacing. The valve cover grommets-did you replace them?

OK without a partial VIN on the pad you probably have a GM replacement engine. Check the casting number behind the driver's side head on the bell housing flange and post it or do an internet search to find more info. It might say "hencho en mexico" very near the casting number.

To check for blow-by, find someone you trust to help you. Block your wheels, apply the parking brake, remove the PCV valve and have your trusted friend mildly power brake the engine. If smoke comes out of the valve cover, that's blow by. I doubt you have much seeings how it's probably a replacement engine but a good step to evaluate it.

Getting another engine and re-building and installing it will only improve the value of your truck (original engine gone so that ship has sailed), but I'd hold off until you know what condition this engine is in. Does it smoke? At what times does it smoke? What color does it smoke?
Does it knock?

The short blocks will usually outlive the heads and valvetrain 2:1. Many engines get replaced/rebuilt when they really only need cam and top end work.

Install a new filter on the carb inlet, and it the filter spring is missing replace it and eliminate that inline filter before it breaks and causes a severe fire. I can see the hose is putting stress on the inlet nipple in the picture and a crack is likely to ensue.
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/...spx?Part=30-53
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/...spx?Part=CUFSS
That'a spring set for fuel filter and carburetor accelerator pump. If you need the filter spring get the set and save the accel pump spring for when the carb is rebuilt. It's cheap.
You might need this:
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/...x?Part=251660c

But, I'd highly recommend going to a U-Pull-It style salvage yard and getting a nice solid one all the way from the pump to the carb from another SBC with side feed Quadrajet and putting that on there. Take a picture of your a/c bracket with so to be sure you get the right configuration to clear your brackets.

The short filter I recommend is good enough, and it's re-usable. If you want a bigger filter, you can get a larger inlet fitting and a longer filter, same spring.
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/...px?Part=CUD202
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/...spx?Part=30-55

[flaa1a]

Thanks for the input. I will for sure get that filter changed. Or eliminated?

I am pretty sure this engine is from a 69 "full size". Whatever that means. The engine code on the side says VO116HN. From what I have read that means

V- Flint Mich.
01- Jan
16- 16th
HN- says 1969 "full size" on this page

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-5.php

The engine does not smoke or knock and ran great all the way back from Arkansas to Kansas (5 plus hours). But I hate the leaking of oil and I read that you have to pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket! YIKES!!!!

I plan to get in and see if I can find the casting number and casting date, but I have read it is tough to do with engine still in the truck!

Oh yeah. I did not replace the grommets on the valve covers....where can I get those? LMC? Or any old parts store? You mean just the PCV grommet....right?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

Thanks for the input. I will for sure get that filter changed. Or eliminated?

I am pretty sure this engine is from a 69 "full size". Whatever that means. The engine code on the side says VO116HN. From what I have read that means

V- Flint Mich.
01- Jan
16- 16th
HN- says 1969 "full size" on this page

http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-cod...s-suffix-5.php

The engine does not smoke or knock and ran great all the way back from Arkansas to Kansas (5 plus hours). But I hate the leaking of oil and I read that you have to pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket! YIKES!!!!

I plan to get in and see if I can find the casting number and casting date, but I have read it is tough to do with engine still in the truck!

Oh yeah. I did not replace the grommets on the valve covers....where can I get those? LMC? Or any old parts store? You mean just the PCV grommet....right?

Well I don't know about the serial number, others on this forum are experts on that.

I've done the oil pan/rear main on mine without pulling the engine, I did it on a lift so it was not so bad. I have read you do have to put an 8x6 chunk of wood under the oil pan to jack up the engine with a floor jack (after getting the truck high enough to crawl under), remove the fan blade, yada yada yada and put 2x4 chunks between the engine mounts and the perches then the pan will come out. Can be hard on coolant hoses and a/c hoses especially if they are old and you may have to remove the distributor cap, etc. There is a published procedure.

If you need to reseal the entire engine you might consider pulling it and doing it on a stand but don't know what equip you have access to.

Help section at a chain auto parts store usually has the grommets, or you could find them on e-bay.

[flaa1a]

I cant find the casting date( psnger side)..but the casting number (driver side) looks to be 3956618

My father in law has a lift and I have a bay cut out in my garage so I can sit underneath to clean and what not.....

[ole dollor]

welcome to the forum and I do like that color and that truck.....

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by flaa1a

I cant find the casting date( psnger side)..but the casting number (driver side) looks to be 3956618

My father in law has a lift and I have a bay cut out in my garage so I can sit underneath to clean and what not.....

You are right it's a 69 350 but could be a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt. If you end up doing the oil pan/rear main seal, I'd do it at the father-in-laws. Then, you could use a floor jack to raise the engine and install the 2x4's under the mounts atop the perches.

Then raise it up and change the pan gasket/rear main seal. Of course, this is AFTER doing everything you are going to do up top. Let me know when you get to that point if you need any assistance in how to do it.

Problem with doing the oil pan first, if you have any leaks up top you will not know if you did the pan right.

Check first:
1. Valve covers, you got that covered.
2. Oil pressure light sender/gauge pressure pipe: however equipped.
3. Intake manifold end seals.
4. External galley plugs (rare to leak).
5. Front crankshaft (timing cover) seal.
6. Cam plug (rear of engine behind flywheel/flex plate). This is hard to see, but with the lift lots easier to remove dust cover and peek up there with a pen light. Look at the freeze plugs too, if anything is leaking on the rear of the engine behind the flywheel other than the main, then the trans has to come out.

Give it a good looking over. Hate to see you do more than you need to seeings how it runs good now.

[Hustontractor]

I love your pickup! Blue and white is my second favorite combination on these pickups! Enjoy!