Idler Arm Bracket Upgrade Template

[65TRUK]

I am working on a power steering upgrade on a '64' short box frame. What I need, if anyone has one, is a template to drill the mounting holes for the 'upgrade' Idler Arm bracket (using drag link assembly from '87' Burb). I know many guys have done this before and may have drawn a template for future use. Please help if you can. Thanks,

[luvbowties]

Assuming new holes must be drilled, I would do the following. With help from an extra pair of hands, you can use c-clamps and use trial-and-error to temporarily hold it in different positions until you get the drag link eyeballed as to vertical distance it "runs" along, above, below the cross member; also this eyeballing should align the drag link (importantly) parallel to the cross member. Once these parameters look good, you can c-clamp the idler arm securely and either drill thru its mounting holes or use a set of center-finders-for-holes to center-punch the holes for drilling into cross member once idler arm has been moved out of the way. I PREFER DRILLING THRU THE IDLER'S HOLES, USING A SMALL DRILL-MOTOR WHOSE CHUCK WILL ACCOMMODATE THE DRILL BIT SIZES NEEDED. A slightly-off drilling thru your punched center should be eliminated this way.

It's been so long since I've done one, I'd suggest to check for sure if new holes must be drilled when using the 3 matching-year components: cross member, draglink, and idler arm.

HTH,
Sam

[65TRUK]

Thanks for your input Sam. I have considered doing pretty much what you have suggested, but thought I'd ask around for any and all recommendations. (There certainly must be a best way ... and it may be yours Sam), Also, yes, new hole must be drilled because the newer Idler Arm bracket mounts in a different support direction than the original did (original bracket holes were basically a vertical line and the new bracket holes are on an angle toward the front of the truck).

Rod

[scottofksu]

What I did was to install the steering box, the pitman arm, and then I installed the centerlink on this side. Then connect the idler arm to the centerlink, and the idler arm bracket (that you'll be attaching to the frame) to the idler arm.

There are two measurements you must be concerned with when mounting your centerlink: level and square. To establish level I bought two cheap magnetic torpedo levels. I attached one to the middle of the centerlink, and the other on the flat flange of the crossmember where the front ubolts for the lower controll arm go through.

Then, to ensure squareness, I clamped a piece of square steel to the frame just in front of where the centerlink mounts. I squared this piece of steel by measuring an equal distance from the motor mount bracket holes on the crossmember. I used two machinist squares to measure the distance from the squared reference point to both the left and right sides of the centerlink.

Finally, with help from a friend, I slid the idler bracket up and down on the frame until it was level with the crossmember, and the slid it forwards and backwards on the frame until it was square. I then used a huge c-clamp to hold the idler bracket in place while I double checked my measurements, and then drilled the holes.

Pro-tip: make sure you make all of your adjustments by lifting and sliding the idler bracket, and that the centerlink is hanging free while you're making you're measurements. The reason being that the various joints on the centerlink will allow you to be off up to 1/4 inch on both you're measurements (square and level). By adjusting from the idler bracket you let the rest of the centerlink assembly hang as it will naturally during operation.

[scottofksu]

This will give you an idea of what I am talking about. I'd suggest sliding the square bar closer to your centerlink. Also, the level isn't on the centerlink in this picture, but I sat one right above the one on the crossmember when I was making my measurements.

[65TRUK]

scottofksu, thanks for all of the detail as it will certainly help when I get to the hands on work. I always appreciate help from this truck enthusiasts' community.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by scottofksu

This will give you an idea of what I am talking about. I'd suggest sliding the square bar closer to your centerlink. Also, the level isn't on the centerlink in this picture, but I sat one right above the one on the crossmember when I was making my measurements.

Nice method and write-up, scottofksu. If I do another one, I will check my eyeball technique and adjust as necessary. [[I'm quite curious to see how accurate your method is when compared to mine------or did I say that backwards?]]
I do like your method and will remember to use it in any future ones I do! Thanks for a scientific method.
Sam

[markeb01]

I did what you originally asked for, made a template out of a manila file folder off the donor frame. I registered the template off the forward suspension bolt so I'd know it was in exactly the right location relative to a fixed object.

Unfortunately my donor was a 1975, and my frame is a 1960 so it wouldn't be much help even if I still had the template. I'm just confirming the method works perfectly, or at least it did in my case.

[65TRUK]

Thanks markeb01, I too have thought about doing this. I still may try to do so, but I would have to go back to the bone yard and hope that the carcass is sill on the lot and it would/will be so much fun with the arctic air we have been enjoying here in Michigan lately. Again my thanks,

[scottofksu]

No problem! I started out going the "template" route, but then I remembered that these trucks were made on an assemble line with varying quality control standards. My goal has been to rebuild the truck beyond factory specifications (read: better quality control + uprating). Therefore, using precision measurement I set to install the centerlink as close to "perfect" as I could get it (i.e., square and level). Then, once you get the rest of the suspension assembled, you'll see all of the deflection and bumpstop potential that is inherent in the flawed original design, and you'll wonder why you bothered.