Restoration advice

[JAM1777]

I have a 1969 Chevy C10 longbed fleetside. I always wanted an old school truck and slowly restore it to add my character into it. Unfortunately im not a mechanic and dont know how to do body work or paint. Well i can do brakes and change hoses and do pretty much the tune up basics but not a whole lot of experience on trucks or engine's. So when i bought the truck the rear main was leaking so i decided to put a new chevy performance 290 crate in it.........I just finished my final engine break in and now im not sure what to do next. I have a guy who will do all the body work and paint in and out, but it needs a new bed. And also there is a lot of old build up on the rear end and chassie. Also its got old drum brakes and pulls really bad to the left and doesn't stop very well when i use the brakes. Sometimes it can get a little overwhelming but then i take it for a drive and i get compliments on how nice it is and how nice it sounds and it makes me want to keep going. And its got dents and primer. So long story short.....it has a new engine, what would be the next step?? Any advice would be very appreciated

[HeavyD]

Disc swap and redo rear brakes. I have long passed the age when having a vehicle that would barely stop was thought of as "exciting" lol. Thats where my money would go next

[Greasey Harley]

I'd start with the brakes and steering.
NOTHING is more important than brakes and steering. (in that order)
Figure out your budget and options, dive right in.
We'll be right here to help, should you have any questions.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

I'd start with the brakes and steering.
NOTHING is more important than brakes and steering. (in that order)
Figure out your budget and options, dive right in.
We'll be right here to help, should you have any questions.

I agree. And at the same time get a fire extinguisher, then start looking at fuel and electrical. Never trust the last few owners and just assume your gonna have a fire. Our bed wood stated smoking. The power for the camper was hanging and was frying up the old dry bed wood. Poured water on it because no gasoline involved. But it really bothered me and it haunts me!!!!! New harness is near the top of my list.

[JAM1777]

Ok, i was thinking of changing to disk in front, can you point me in the right direction of what conversion kit i would need to buy?
Also now that you mentioned fire......on a hot day if i don't leave the gas cap vented, the fuel line leaks inside the truck when the tank gets pressure from the heat. I have the behind the seat tank.

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by JAM1777

Ok, i was thinking of changing to disk in front, can you point me in the right direction of what conversion kit i would need to buy?
Also now that you mentioned fire......on a hot day if i don't leave the gas cap vented, the fuel line leaks inside the truck when the tank gets pressure from the heat. I have the behind the seat tank.

Start off with buying a good shop manual, Chiltons or Better yet GM. There is a thread where your can down load for free. Read before repairing. As for your gas smell, remove your seat and replace the rubber lines on your gas tank, may have to replace the sending unit o-ring. For brakes, disc upgrade is good when funds permit. A quality brake job with new or turned drums, fresh wheel cylinders, quality brake shoes, new hoses and you will be able to stop on a dime. I would fix what you have and upgrade as time goes on.

[Greasey Harley]

Originally Posted by JAM1777

Ok, i was thinking of changing to disk in front, can you point me in the right direction of what conversion kit i would need to buy?
Also now that you mentioned fire......on a hot day if i don't leave the gas cap vented, the fuel line leaks inside the truck when the tank gets pressure from the heat. I have the behind the seat tank.

Do you want it lowered? stock height? Do you want an all inclusive kit? do you want to do a junk yard swap?
Do you want 5 lug or 6 lug?
What is your budget?

I never put more than 3/4 tank of fuel in my truck. that seems to help with the fumes.

[JAM1777]

I want to buy a new conversion kit, but dont know what to get? When i bought the truck it already had lowering springs installed. ...would the lowering springs make a difference on what kit i would buy?? Also i just found a guy who would install the kit for $400 labor....is that a good price?

[JAM1777]

Also my front tires are 6 lug, i figured i would keep them the same

[Mock1]

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

Do you want it lowered? stock height? Do you want an all inclusive kit? do you want to do a junk yard swap?
Do you want 5 lug or 6 lug?
What is your budget?

I never put more than 3/4 tank of fuel in my truck. that seems to help with the fumes.

Originally Posted by Lee H

Start off with buying a good shop manual, Chiltons or Better yet GM. There is a thread where your can down load for free. Read before repairing. As for your gas smell, remove your seat and replace the rubber lines on your gas tank, may have to replace the sending unit o-ring. For brakes, disc upgrade is good when funds permit. A quality brake job with new or turned drums, fresh wheel cylinders, quality brake shoes, new hoses and you will be able to stop on a dime. I would fix what you have and upgrade as time goes on.

X2.
Get a book.
Fix fuel leaks,
REPAIR brakes,
Shocks,
Steering, alignment.

[GRX]

x5 on the brakes. Stopping is good! And x2 on below. While disks are obviously better, a well set up 4 wheel drum system will serve you well.

Originally Posted by Lee H

A quality brake job with new or turned drums, fresh wheel cylinders, quality brake shoes, new hoses and you will be able to stop on a dime. I would fix what you have and upgrade as time goes on.

[truckster]

Your priority should always be:
1. SAFETY
2. Reliability
3. Performance or appearance

Whether you decide to do a disk swap or fix the drums, the brakes should be your first priority.

[JAM1777]

Thanks for all the replies, i found a guy who will do front and rear breaks and turn both the front drums for $450. He said if i need new drums it will be about $650. I will do a disc conversation when i have a better budget for it

[Eddie H.]

Make it safe and mechanically sound first, then work on the cosmetics.

[GRX]

$200 for a set of drums seems expensive. Mine were $28 a piece at NAPA. Then again, they were of asian origin. So I ground off where they said "China".

[JAM1777]

Originally Posted by GRX

$200 for a set of drums seems expensive. Mine were $28 a piece at NAPA. Then again, they were of asian origin. So I ground off where they said "China".

So you paid a little over $100 for all 4?? Maybe i should buy them myself and have them on hand just in case

[GRX]

Yep. They seemed pretty much the same as the originals, minus the outer spring band.

[davepl]

Originally Posted by GRX

$200 for a set of drums seems expensive. Mine were $28 a piece at NAPA. Then again, they were of asian origin. So I ground off where they said "China".

Damn, are you sure you didn't have the ultra-rare ceramic ones? Those are sort of like China. You generally only see them on Z07s these days.

So far as I remember 3/4-ton and 1-ton rear drums, except for duallies, are made from unobtainium. I would never toss a set. We might wind up re-lining those things one day if no one remakes them soon.

Sure there are a bunch out there, but my gently-used, well-maintained truck was already right at spec once we turned them down to consistently fresh metal. So finding a set doesn't mean they're even usable.

Now half tons you can probably get for $10 on RockAuto. You half-ton guys are living large, like '69 Camaros. We HD guys have it rough, like Canadian Pontiac rough.

But, for the purposes of this thread, I'll say the same as pretty much everyone else has. Don't spend a penny on looks until the thing is safe, solid, and reliable. Then drive it that way for a while to see if it stays that way. On a truck you haven't owned for a long time, quite often fixing something just pushes the failure point up to the next old and worn part behind it (think ball joints revealing bad tie rods revealing bad idler arm - and you don't know until those are all fixed that there's too much slop in your steering box).

So same as everyone else: first safe, then pretty.